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What To Look For When Buying Used


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#1 speedy5966 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2012 - 06:19 PM

Hi! All! I looked for this topic, but didn't find it. If there is already a thread here somewhere, can someone please point me to it?Anyway, I am going to look at a couple of tractors in the next several days, and I want to make sure I know what to look for. One is a 4wd Mitsubishi D1550FD, the other is a 2WD Iseki model FU130.(He thinks) The guy with the Mitsubishi says there's really nothing wrong woth it, that he just bought a bigger one. He's asking $2100, with a box blade, and what looks like pretty good tires. The Iseki is $1200, with a straight blade and a brush hog. I asked him if it ran good and if everything worked, and he said everything worked, and it ran "OK". He wouldn't clarify what he meant by "OK", so I'm a little aprehensive about it. For $1200, I can afford to do a little work. I would really prefer a 4wd, but for that price, I may be willing to make do with 2WD. I feel that the mitsubishi is obviously the best deal, but I also need to leave some room in my budget for a loader, and the $900 difference will come in handy. My question is, what do I look for to make sure I'm not getting something that's going to be rendered useless shortly, or cost so much to fix that it isn't worth buying. I'm a car guy, and do LOTS of mechanic work on cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc, but not at all familiar with what to look for on a tractor.
Thanks!

Edited by speedy5966, April 27, 2012 - 06:53 PM.


#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2012 - 07:08 AM

Those prices seem low for both those tractors compared to here. You might want to check on parts availability on both brands. Hour meters readings can give some help. One thing I would do is look at the tires. Fronts that are worn out on a 4wd can mean that it was used on hard surfaces in 4wd which is hard on the drivetrain. Tires are also very expensive, so if they're worn out it's a big item. I usually try to jack up the front end and look at the play in the ball joints, wheel bearings, axle pivot, steering linkage etc. If all these items are worn then it indicates a lot of hours and/or poor maintenance. Look for oil leaks, hydraulic and engine oil. As far as diesel engine health goes I'm no expert on that but blow by can be an indicator of engine wear. How you would recognize that is something I have no experience with. I've heard of Kubotas with less than 1000hrs having excessive blow by. Kubota engines are first rate and only a lack of maintenance can wear one out that quickly. if the owners have maintenance records it's always reassuring. Sometimes you can look at the overall condition of a tractor and get a pretty good idea of how it was used and maintained. If it's clean, well greased, the fluids are topped up and clean, and everything is working properly then those are good indicators. That doesn't mean there aren't problems hidden just under the surface but it does speak to the tractors past use.

#3 speedy5966 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2012 - 12:47 PM

Thanks! That helps a lot! I'll do some research on spotting blowby on a diesel, although I figure it's about like a gasoline engine. The owner says the Mitsubishi has 5229 hours! Seems like a LOT to me, but they were made from 82-86, so I guess that's only about 175 hours a year. Still seems like a lot, though. Any way to check the condition of the PTO?

#4 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2012 - 01:51 PM

Bill, member Gttinkerer has professional experience with Mitsubishi engines & he doesn't care for them. He worked for years on industrial mowing machines & other golf course care equipment. Says they are prone to problems, but I have no personal experience with them myself. As to pto, if you are speaking of rear pto, they pretty much work, or they don't. As long as there are no strange noises in it while using, it's likely ok.

#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2012 - 02:31 PM

5229 hours is a lot for a small tractor. You don't often see them here with anywhere near that many hours on them. The Iseki engines have a good reputation here. Whenever a Bolens or Iseki compact comes up for sale here it usually goes quickly for a good price. The asking price for a 1980's 17hp for instance is normally in the 4000 - 5000$ range. They usually come with a loader for that price. The mitsu's are less common here and I have only seem one for sale in the last year or so. Nice looking tractor but they don't fetch the prices the Bolens/Iseki do. Again I would do some research on parts. You should PM member GTtinkerer (Bill) and see if he can offer any advice. With the PTO's one thing to look for is the speed. Sometimes these tractors had 1000 rpm pto's on the back as that was a standard in Japan. If so it won't work with a standard 540 implement. Also there are some so called grey market tractors around. They are imported from Japan and have been refurbished. Many of them have really aggressive looking AG tires on them that are referred to as rice paddy tires. That's a clue that the tractor was originally sold in Japan.

#6 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2012 - 02:49 PM

Speedy, you might wanna take a look at:
Tractor Restoration Tips & Tricks ,'Things to look for in a GT restore'...happy hunting!

#7 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2012 - 06:44 PM

Parts may be hard to get too, all points stated are valid, personally i would look for something Yanmar , or Kubota as you can get parts easier . Good luck at any rate these little diesels are slick little numbers when all is correct.

#8 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2012 - 10:30 AM

Is the mitsubishi Gas or Diesel? I know there were a lot of gas models put out too. I think The Satoh Beaver used a gas Mitsubishi. I know I looked at a Satoh with the Mitsubishi Gas motor in it last fall.
Another thing to consider is the PTO Clockwise or Counter Clockwise rotation? Counter Clockwise implements are a lot higher priced and harder to find.. The only Kubota I know of with Counter Clockwise pto roation is the B6000.

Have to correct myself I did a search on the Satoh's and the Diesels were Mitsibishi, the one model with the gas engine was Mazda. powered. Mitsibishi did buy Satoh out.

Edited by JD DANNELS, May 04, 2012 - 04:17 PM.


#9 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2012 - 12:11 PM

I don't wish to tick anyone off but 5000 hours for any residential machine is a whole bunch of hours unless it was serviced professionally or owned by some one who is a member of a forum such as this and has access to the correct way to service the machine.

I searched the net looking for information on the Iseki and the only hit was the post to start this thread. When I looked for the Mitsubishi there was quite a bit of information which you may find helpful. It looks like it is a diesel and the ones in the golf course mowers I have dealt with were not reliable. I would suggest that you search the internet on any tractor you are considering starting with specifications and reviews of that particular make and model http://www.tractordata.com is a great place to look.

As far as the prices you posted they seem pretty cheap like others have mentioned.

Bill

Edited by GTTinkerer, May 06, 2012 - 06:51 PM.


#10 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2012 - 12:45 PM

Compared to big equipment 5000 hours is about half the life of the motor. Most big Diesels will run 10,000 hours before overhaul.

#11 speedy5966 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 10:39 PM

Yes, the Mitsubishi is a diesel. I haven't gone to look at that one yet, because the 5200 hours has me a little concerned. I finally got the time to go look at the Iseki today. It's actually a TX1300. Front end seemed a little worn, but not to the point of being sloppy. It started and ran great, but he said he had started it earlier in the day. Would like to see how it starts when cold. Pulled the breather tube off the valve cover, and did feel some blowby, but didn't see any smoke/vapors. It didn't seem like a lot of blowby, just a little. Are these engines pretty loud? I know deisels have a "knocking" sound, because they are diesels, but this seemed pretty loud. I didn't sound like a rod, but there was a lot of that type of sound. I know how to check for a loose rod on a gas engine, but what about a diesel? The 3 point seemed to work OK, and the pto worked, although I didn't think to try all three speeds. Tractordata.com says the PTO is 472/753/1177. Will 540 impliments run ok at 472?
The other thing I noticed, was that I could not see any hydraulic connection points. I will NEED a loader, so if this has no connections for it, it won't do me any good. I know you can get pto mounted pumps, but I'm not sure I want to go to all that trouble. I saw a Kubota B7100 4X4 with a loader and brush hog, with 900 hours, for $5000. More than I wanted to spend, but all I would need to add is a box blade and post hole digger, and I'd be set.
Thanks!

Edited by speedy5966, May 13, 2012 - 10:47 PM.


#12 speedy5966 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 02:54 PM

Sorry guys, I forgot to ask this: As for the hydraulic connections, could they be hidden somewhere? Tractordata lists the hydraulic pressure stats, so I can only assume the tractors have it (or maybe it was an option?) Thanks!

#13 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 06:26 PM

On most tractors you will feel some pressure pulses through the oil fill when it is running just from the up and down movement of the pistons. To see if there is excessive blowby you will probably need to work the tractor for more than 15 minutes to get the engine at it's normal operating temperature.

If the tractor has a hydrostatic transmission then it should be capable of supporting a loader but the hydraulic connections (remotes) are usually an option and on some tractors a high priced option.

Bill

Of course these are only my humble but well thought out opinions.
  • speedy5966 said thank you

#14 speedy5966 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2012 - 08:11 AM

Well guys, thanks for all of the help! After months of scouring craigslist, I finally found a good deal, and pulled the trigger. Picked up a Kubota B7100, with a loader, box blade and brush hog, with 780 hours. He was asking $5250, and I got it for $4900. It runs really great, and everything works, although I don't think the hours are right. I had to tear apart the steering box, and put bushings under the steering shaft bearing races, to take the slack out of it. It was binding when turned to the right, caused by the steering wheel contacting the housing. It also had a leak around the 3 point piston cover/head (Not sure what it's called), which was just a bad O-ring. seems like the axle has some front to rear play, so I suppose I'll be putting bushings/spacers there, as well. The loader control sometimes doesn't want to force down if you push it all the way forward, but works fine if you only push a little. It also sometimes doesn't want to hold pressure down, although it holds in the up position just fine. Other than that, everything seems pretty good.
Anyway, thanks for all the guidance, and I hope to get a lot of use from this tractor. Did I get an OK deal?
Thanks!!!

Posted Image

Edited by speedy5966, May 25, 2012 - 08:21 AM.





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