The Differance Between A Dealer Model And Chainstore Model
Posted April 26, 2012 - 11:35 AM
Posted April 26, 2012 - 12:29 PM
I know I was looking at a Zero Turn John Deere at the local Lowes, yesterday.
There was a prominent sticker on the Frame that read "Prepared by Great American Outdoor Equipment" Ankeny ,Iowa and included the phone number and address for service. I happen to know that's part of the Van Wall Group that has John Deere dealerships all over Iowa, Eastern Nebraska and Northern Kansas.
If it were a substandard product I doubt they would put their name on or service it..
I also looked at the cadet's, Toro & Ex Marks at the local True Value.
I just don't see that $12,000 Ex Mark that will do up to 7.4 acres per hour in my budget any time soon?
Though would love to mow my 9 acres in less than 2 hours.
Still am most inpressed with Ex Mark and will be downgrading my expectations to something more within my budget
Edited by JD DANNELS, April 26, 2012 - 12:43 PM.
Posted April 26, 2012 - 01:28 PM
Posted April 26, 2012 - 01:33 PM
Posted April 26, 2012 - 01:40 PM
Posted April 26, 2012 - 08:58 PM
As for the $10/qt oil - it's a Shell product, but they aren't willing to say if it's sold under any other label. Search google for TTF-SB (Tractor Transaxle Fluid - Synthetic Blend). Finding this oil at a non-goofy price appears to be the holy grail of garden tractor oils. Folks have reported success using various motor oils, but nothing definitive. Honestly - I don't know if the cub cadet oil is better or worse than the motor oils folks have been suggesting. So far, I'm paying the extra $$s every few years - hopefully that's cheaper total cost of ownership (vs. an expensive repair).
One thing is certain - make sure you use a hydrostatic filter. A motor oil filter will make you machine non-functional. I buy mine at the local IH farm tractor dealer.
- JDBrian said thank you
Posted April 26, 2012 - 08:59 PM
Posted April 26, 2012 - 09:33 PM
I can see a servicing dealer not wanting to work on one that was bought thru a box store. If Joe Q Public buys a tractor thru a box store and then it breaks and wants the regular servicing dealer to warranty fix it that dealer is out the money in time and parts until the claim is approved. And the manufacturer can either deny the claim outright or send reimbursment for much less then was actually put back into the machine. I saw this first hand 6 years ago when I worked for the local Toro/Ferris dealership for a short time. Many times a claim would go thru and come back denied or the reimbursement would be considerably less then filed for.
As for oil I would use the synthetic on the 2000 series and newer. The older models thru the cyclops series used the old Hy Tran fluid same as the IH's and had the same filter. Some of the smaller cub lawn tractors use a filter but not all. The newer 1000 series ones which are the warmed over Yard Machines I believe do not, but I believe some of the 2000 series do.
I haven't looked at them lately but if the trend is the same as it was 6 years ago then they are probably made even worse. I will just stick to my trusty old IH made Cub Cadets and know that they will still be around working like the day they were made long after some of these new things are recycled into another new worthless tractor.
- HDWildBill said thank you
Posted May 08, 2012 - 09:12 PM
- caseguy said thank you
Posted May 14, 2012 - 03:21 PM
Posted May 14, 2012 - 09:53 PM
AS Stated the Box store Cub Cadets are No different from the dealer cub Cadets But they do Not sell the GT or GTX2000 series at the Box store. Now for a Few Years You could Get the Cub Cadet 2186 ordered Thru a Lowes and thru Places Like Farm & Fleet You could even order a 2550 thru Farm & fleet at One time But today the Biggest You Can Get at a Box store is the Cub Cadet GTX1054 But it's Belt driven from engine to transmission and It Uses a Hydro-Gear G730 Transaxle and that same Transmission Can Be found In Husqvarna Garden tractor & Sears Craftsman Garden tractors as well One thing You will Notice recently Cub has sort of divided the Cub Cadet 1000 series lawn tractor a Bit They sell the Models with the Kohler courage’s at the Box store while there selling the One’s with a Kawasaki engine at the Cub Cadet dealer & there starting to use Tuff-Torq K46's In the 1000 series Models with Kawasaki engine while there still using Hydro-Gear 310-0510 In the 1000 series with the Kohler Courage engines But there still the same tractor weather it's a box store 1000 or a dealer 1000 series tractor The Only difference Now is the Kawasaki engine Models are only sold at the dealer and Have Tuff-Torq K46 transmissions But the dealers also sells the Kohler Courage 1000 series models as well But Your 2185 is Not in the same league with those 1000 series sold at the Box stores It way Beyond Those Tractors and to a Point Its Beyond the GT or GTX2000 series tractors In the Fact Cub Cadet has Not Introduced a OEM tiller for them Yet if Your Looking for a PTO driven tiller for the Current 2000 series You only choice Is Bercomac and Bercomac Is also Producing the 46inch Front Blade & two stage snow Blower for the Current 2000 series Before the 42inch Blade & 42inch two stage Blower for Your 2185 was Made In House By Cub Cadet along with the 28inch PTO tiller or 30inch Hydraulic driven Tiller I own a 2002 2206 with a 48inch deck and a electric lift sleeve Hitch & a 30inch Hydraulic driven tiller and right Now I would say it’s More tractor then the Current GT or GTX2000 series while My 2206 may Have a cast aluminum trans housing and Not a Cast Iron Trans case Like the Current GT or GTX2000 series It can actually do a Little Bit More Because of the Hydraulic tiller So remind People your 2185 is Like Buying a GT Or GTX2000 series tractor In the Fact it shaft driven from engine to transmission and Not Belt driven Like the Box store Models
I was told by a dealer that my 2185 should bring 2200 dollars with the tiller and snowblower. I listed it forsale at 1800 dollars. Any way A guy looked at it yesturday and told me he could buy a brand new one with a 5 year warranty from tractorsupply for 1800 dollars and wanted to give me 900 dollars for it. I can name 4 dealers up here that wont do any warranty work on a chainstore model with out charging the customer a 75 dollar per visit fee. That tells me theres something different about them. I know the 2185 is an old tractor but I believe its a better tractor than a tractor supply cub. I also added that the 2 attachments with it made it alot better deal. Needless to say he went to tractor supply and bought a new one. They also told him there was no difference. Is this true with the cubs. I know the deeres had a different model for chain stores for a while I dont know if they still do. Can any one tell me the difference before this question comes up again. He did tell me flat out the transaxle in this one looked alot heavier than the ones from tsc. LOL If I am only going to get 1000 bucks out of thi old girl its just going to join my collection. At 160 hours it should be just getting broke in.
- bgkid2966 said thank you
Posted May 15, 2012 - 05:06 AM
As far as synthetic fluid goes Amsoil makes a synthetic tractor fluid and you can buy that from any Amsoil dealer. I used it in my JD 2320 compact and it definitely made the hydraulics/ trans. run cooler. The JD D series is the same at a box store as at the dealer. I'm not sure about other brands but they are all built to a low price point and you get what you pay for.
Posted May 15, 2012 - 10:45 AM
Posted May 15, 2012 - 11:23 AM
Posted November 27, 2012 - 04:28 PM
This is a great forum and I just can't absorb enough on the information available here . I'm half way thru restoring a model 72 . I have started restoring the mule drive, snowthrower and 42" mower deck to go with the model 72 . I use my model 104 most of the time and may not restore it as no ID plates came with it, neither the trans or engine plates were there. I just purchased a model 124 which has some serious engine issues to be resolved during restoration . Thanks to all and keep the info flowing !
Just to add, I try to use as little paint as possible and powdercoat everything for the restoration. It's much more durable and the mental exercise you get trying to figure out how to only powdercoat a portion of a part, since the powder is baked on a 400 degrees . No plastic or rubber parts ! They would melt or burn . The only problem I've experienced so far is that powdercoated wheel rims are so slick the tire won't seat and you have to use tubes . This journey we're on is great !
Edited by mike912e, November 27, 2012 - 04:36 PM.