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Hydrostatic Transmission Problem


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#16 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2012 - 08:43 AM

Oil flows from the resivior to the charge pump( 800 psi) to impliment valve, out of valve to the filter housing then to the hydro pump, if you put the lines feeding the filter on backwards... Pop goes the filter! Hydro is all down line off this mess, and would surely do WAY more damage if it was allowed to build pressure. Swap the lines at the filter housing. As the filter has a checkvalve in it, this fluid is used by the hydro only for priming and lube so it really doesn't need all that pressure, this is why the filter is there.

Edited by skyrydr2, April 25, 2012 - 08:52 AM.


#17 kiddpitt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2012 - 01:27 PM

Oil flows from the resivior to the charge pump( 800 psi) to impliment valve, out of valve to the filter housing then to the hydro pump, if you put the lines feeding the filter on backwards... Pop goes the filter! Hydro is all down line off this mess, and would surely do WAY more damage if it was allowed to build pressure. Swap the lines at the filter housing. As the filter has a checkvalve in it, this fluid is used by the hydro only for priming and lube so it really doesn't need all that pressure, this is why the filter is there.


It did this before I took anything apart. If I did anything to screw this up, it was the kerosene. :( I thought I was doing a good thing, since the tractor sat for 10 years.

Thanks so much for the manual links. I'm going to have to get under and see trans is in there. I'm a little discouraged though--the manuals are making me realize if I have to take the trans apart anymore than I already have, I'm going to be in over my head.

I'm actually giving some thought to redoing the kerosene....to see if I can loosen up whatever got gunked up. What's the worst that can happen? Another blown filter?

#18 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2012 - 03:02 PM

Take the line off at the side of the transmission , or at the filter, put it in a bucket , take off the other line from the imp. Valve and put it in the bucket, start tractor, if oil comes from just the imp. Valve ,that part is good, and the charge pump is ok.
If oil comes out of the other line with decent flow, it has a stuck check valve . And will require dis-assembly. Otherwise check the filter housing , may have a blockage ?

#19 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2012 - 04:18 AM

One more question? You did NOT run it with the kero did you?
If you did...... Better look for another hydro if you don't want to take it apart..
.
FRAM PH16 filters ? Did it POP the seal or the body?
Again, run it with the line off that goes to the right side of the hydro. If the filter pops again , it is in the filter housing.
There is an internal low pressure relief that can be accesed with out dis-assembly, but I would do the oil flow test first.

#20 kiddpitt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2012 - 07:56 AM

One more question? You did NOT run it with the kero did you?
If you did...... Better look for another hydro if you don't want to take it apart..
.
FRAM PH16 filters ? Did it POP the seal or the body?
Again, run it with the line off that goes to the right side of the hydro. If the filter pops again , it is in the filter housing.
There is an internal low pressure relief that can be accesed with out dis-assembly, but I would do the oil flow test first.


I did NOT run it with the kerosene, I just let the kerosene sit in it for 3-4 days.

Just to clarify the flow test, I should disconnect the line from the filter to the side of the transmission. With the tractor running like this, if I get oil thru this line then I have a check valve/internal issue. If I don't get oil thru this line, then the filter hosuing is suspect (& the filter will probably blow again). Am I understanding this diagnosis correct?

Also, I've been reading all the manuals & stuff I have. I have one line on the trans that I can't identify. The line to the control valve/impliment valve leaves the transmission above the cooling fan. Under the cooling fan, there is a bigger line that connects to the resevoir (if that is the right name). What does this line do? It is the only line I did not disconnect and clean out.

#21 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2012 - 08:33 AM

That large line underneath is the main supply line. If it were clogged, you'd not get anything. I'd say your checklist in the above posts is correct in what you need to do.
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#22 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2012 - 10:05 AM

Your correct , remember , the oil flows from the outside of the filers through the element and out the center. , best thing would be to remove the filter and verify this, and then verify that the bypass is working too, if this sticks closed... Makes a mess....

#23 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 05:34 AM

Just curious, how did you make out with this?

#24 kiddpitt OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 11:27 AM

Just curious, how did you make out with this?


I haven't touched it yet. I got so frustrated with it & have so many other things that need done, I was hoping it would be an easy fix, but since I have to go a little more in depth, I had to bump it down the priority list. Luckily my LGT 100 can handle more than just cutting the grass!

I'll update when I get some time to get it fixed.

#25 lostsole69 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 07:36 AM

Hi All I have a 1973 GT-16 and it has the old school inline filter I serviced the transmission once and installed the filter backwards the filter is a flow sensitive filter it has to be installed in the right direction so when I got mine installed backwards it did not blow but it made the trans sound horrible and after removing the new filter I found mettel in the filter!! So make sure your flow is in the correct direction!!



#26 milkdud OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2014 - 11:33 PM

I had this problem last year with my open sided lgt 145.  I have post on here someplace.  Tractor operated fine until i put a new filter and changed trans fluid.

 

New WIX filter started leaking.  Purchased new FRAM.  FRAM started leaking almost immediately.  So i investigated both filters.

 

Both the WIX and FRAM were pressurizing and pushing oil past the crimp. HMMMM.... whats going on.

 

Then I figured out someone swapped the hose lines to the remote filter.  It was pushing AGAINST the anti drain back valve in the filter and POP.

Went back and looked at the old WIX filter that seemed to be fine before I took it off.  AND sure enough the anti drain back flapper valve was ripped enough that it passed flow.

 

Im guessing you may have the same problem.   SWAP the lines around.

 

I wonder if the original FORD filter did not have a anti drain back valve and it was run backwards thru the filter?  Either way swap your hoses and I bet your problem will be fixed.  It stumped me for a week.  Paid for 3 filters and oil everywhere :)

Conrad


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