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My New Project


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#16 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2012 - 08:47 PM

The money doesn't sound bad, but you need to be sure the unit is what you need for your 112. The 110's have a 8hp Kohler motor, while the 112's have 10hp Tecumseh motors. Each with their own mounting brackets. Also, if you're looking to keep the tractor as original as possible, the hyraulic lift handle shouldn't have any bends in it, and the original color was yellow. They used basically the same type of mounting bracket for the flat fender 112's, but the handle had a slight bend in it, and were commonly painted black. If there is a way of you showing us a picture of the unit before you buy it, I can tell you if it's the correct unit for your tractor. Does the seller also include a serial plate with the unit? Your tractor is origianlly a manual lift unit, and just because your putting a hydraulic lift unit on it, collectors will be able to tell by the serial plate, if your tractor is correct or not.

I'm only bringing these items up, due to being fussy about originallity. If you're going to be fussy enough, to only install original bolts marked as John Deere, then I figured you'll be just as fussy about the serial plate and correct hydraulic unit too. You will also have to find a hydraulic lift console as well, as tractors with originally equiped hydraulic units, didn't have holes where the manual lift handle mount was located.

Hope I helped, and please don't hesitate to ask questions, about anything else, before you spend money on something you may not be sure about. We are here to help!

Troy

Edited by johndeereelfman, April 26, 2012 - 08:54 PM.


#17 sknap83 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2012 - 08:12 AM

LOL I am not going to be that fussy. My dad has seen a coupld of projects I have worked on in the past. Thats why he made the jd bolt head comment. Truthfully I was thinking about making it a puller. But If the hydro lift is correct for the tractor it should be worth picking up incase I change routes with the project and decide to make it usuable. My 3 year old has been to a few garden tractor pulls and he really thinks he wants a puller. I know he is young but if I set it up for that he will be all set a few years down the road. But my other thought is to make it usuable until then then him and I can turn it into a puller later. I will see if the guy will send me pics of the lift and post them. Hesays its off from a 112 round fender so if he is correct it should be right.
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#18 sknap83 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2012 - 11:11 AM

Well my shop space has opened up. The project is going to begin now. Should I try to fire up the motor and see what is sounds like or should I just pull it down right away and throw parts into it so I know what I have. I know on some of the big tractors my dad and I have done We always got the running if it were possible. My 1948 fegusson te 20 was in this ones shoes 12 years ago and We just got her running. It still doesnt use a drop of oil and runs fine. I may be answering my own question here but I am guessing a garden tractor may be different. I can rebuild the motor for a couple hundred dollars thats why I am up in the air. Thanks

#19 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2012 - 01:43 PM

I would try to get it running first. That way you know what is going on, what truly needs to be replaced and what is still ok. Besides, if you just tear it down and paint it, you'll scratch the new paint all up fixing it to run.

#20 sknap83 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2012 - 08:56 PM

I usually get them going on my bench when I do a little motor that is. I am thinking the same about getting it going on the tractor. I am really wondering if its going to need much. Curiousity is getting the best of me now and I put some bbs in the tank for it today and strapped it to my cement mixer for a couple hours. Tommorow I am going to try to get it running.

#21 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2012 - 08:58 PM

I agree with Howard. Get the motor running before dismantle. Maybe try and work it a little, to see how it does under strain. If it doesn't smoke, rattle or lose horsepower, I'd say you're good to go. Make sure you drive it around too. You want to check the transmission in all four forward gears, and reverse. While you're driving it, see how the variable speed works in each gear. Pulling the handle all the way back, will slow your speed in each gear. With the handle all the way front, will give you maximum speed in each gear. Be sure to listen to the transmission while driving the tractor. Steer the tractor back and forth, so that any problems will make themselve evident, if there is any.

When the time is ready for tare down, make sure you take lots of pictures, so you'll have something to reference back to, if you should forget how to put it back together. I highly recommend buying a parts manual, which will give details of each part, and the size requirements of every bolts, should you need to replace any.

Good Luck to you, have fun, and remember, that we are here if you need us!

Troy




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