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Massey 12 Hydro-Cracked Frame?


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#31 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2012 - 05:27 AM

Thanks for the info on the weak spots in these frames. It's something that could easily be missed if you didn't know to look for it. I am just learning to weld and your detailed pictures of the repairs are welcomed!

#32 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2012 - 08:49 AM

Thanks for the info on the weak spots in these frames. It's something that could easily be missed if you didn't know to look for it. I am just learning to weld and your detailed pictures of the repairs are welcomed!

Well, I strongly recommend buying the auto darkening helmut. It makes life so much easier.

I also can't say enough, if your control of your hydro is jerky, check for a cracked frame. Both my hydros originally had a tendency to be jerky and would "auto-advance" the speed control rather quickly if you removed your hand from the control. The repaired one is now so smooth and holds speed well without constant monitoring. Now I plan to pull down the "dump" hydro and check for cracks. I may re-weld that area once I get it apart even if I don't find a crack.

#33 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2012 - 11:25 AM

I've found that with the compression release, it's tough to be accurate on compression. That said, most of them have been around 55-57 without oil in the cyl. Sounds like you may be needing rings or possibly a valve job.

Are you sure you have good head gaskets? Another thing you might try is turn the engine so both valves are closed and put some (60-80 lbs) air in the spark plug hole. If there is air leaking, you should be able to track it down.


That's part of a cylinder leak down test and will tell you where the leakage is, but all cylinders leak to some extent and you also need to know how much it is leaking to know whether it needs fixing or not. Valves shouldn't leak at all, and leakage past the rings is open to interpretation for what constitutes "worn out".

For that you need a regulated air source of 100 psi and a valve with a hose that screws into the spark plug hole. Set the regulator at 100 psi with the valve closed, then open it and read the percentage of pressure that is maintained by the cylinder directly from the guage. A reading of 90 psi/% is a good (new) engine and I forget offhand what constitutes time for a rebuild.

Research "Cylinder leak down test" or "Cylinder leakage test". The procedure above is close, but not corrected for line loss, ie. the pressure reading with the valve open and the line not screwed into the spark plug hole.
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#34 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2012 - 04:12 PM

Thanks TUDOR, I was going for an audible sign of where the leakage was more than a full-out test.
Thanks for taking the time to write that all out, it's great to have the process for a correct test procedure.

#35 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2012 - 04:24 PM

Well, I strongly recommend buying the auto darkening helmut. It makes life so much easier.


Thanks for the advice. Yes I've got one of those. It came with the welder. It's really amazing how quickly they work and it does make it easier when you can see when you are about to strike the arc.

#36 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2012 - 08:02 PM

OK, for anyone who was following this thread, I ended up starting another thread about the engine over in the mechanical forum, here: http://gardentractor...ne-lacks-power/

Now, because there is a lovely (expensive) Massey hydro with tiller, sickle, and more stuff I don't want to think about, I thought I'd amuse myself by listing the items I've already repaired on this nicely painted MF12 Hydro
1: Brake return to neutral- actually put in reverse- Just an adjustment, right?
Repair: Bent repair mechanism, remove and straighten.
Repair: Fwd/Rvrs cam follower loose and worn. Replace with 1/4 ID by 1/2 OD bearing.
2: Mounting plate for sleeve hitch ripped loose from transmission housing sub assembly
Repair 1) drill hole for bolt, clamp both peices back together
Repair 2) weld assembly back in place while dealing with item 3
3: Cracked frame causing weird twisting sensation while riding tractor. Also, rear wheels flex forward and hydro speed tends to change erraticly.
Repair: Remove all tin, tip on side-twice! and weld cracked frame.
4: Engine lacked power to run mower deck
Repair: Pull head, adjust valve clearance, clean carbon from exhaust valve at seat, adjust valve clearance, check and adjust ignition timing
5 Mule drive twists under tension, belt is not aligned
Repair? Still being planned.

You know......That tractor on ebay is less than two hours from me. http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1438.l2649

#37 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2012 - 04:46 AM

He has listed as having a Kohler, it has a Tecumseh in it also it's way to high priced.

#38 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2012 - 05:39 AM

His stuff is always a little high. If you have the money to spare you could make an offer, but for that maney I would want to test drive it first.

#39 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2012 - 06:04 AM

Here is his reply.

You are correct on the engine and changes have been made. However, On the value you are sooooo wrong it's funny. The sickle blade will bring $500, deck $200, Tiller $400, rear lift $200, not counting selling the tractor for an easy $800 by itself. If I tear it down for parts you can double that price. I'm guessing you'll never own it. Thanks for your interest!

Just because it will bring that price doesn't mean you can get that price.
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#40 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2012 - 01:27 PM

Messed up my first multiquote. See response below.

Edited by HowardsMF155, June 20, 2012 - 01:29 PM.


#41 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2012 - 01:28 PM

His stuff is always a little high. If you have the money to spare you could make an offer, but for that maney I would want to test drive it first.

Here is his reply.

You are correct on the engine and changes have been made. However, On the value you are sooooo wrong it's funny. The sickle blade will bring $500, deck $200, Tiller $400, rear lift $200, not counting selling the tractor for an easy $800 by itself. If I tear it down for parts you can double that price. I'm guessing you'll never own it. Thanks for your interest!

Just because it will bring that price doesn't mean you can get that price.


Amigatec, thanks for taking a moment to ask the questions and post an answer. With his attitude I wouldn't want to do business with him anyway. I'm not seriously thinking about spending that amount of money. Don't have it. It sort of sucks that it is so close by, though, because usually that sort of equipment is 8++ hours drive away. For half what he is asking I would go look at it, but you'll notice he doesn't want to schedule inspections etc. Its possible he drums up business by advertising on ebay then sells for less locally, who knows.

#42 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2012 - 03:53 PM

There was a set up like this north of Winston last year, guy was selling it for about a grand
Wonder if this is the same one?
Been a while do not sure if the deck was on that one

#43 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2012 - 04:19 PM

He replied and told I don't know crap how these things sell in NC. I have it on my watch list and I will how long before he drops his price.

It's unrestored it has an S/G, and a few parts missing. Besides how do you mount both the tiller and Sicklebar at the sane time. If I remember correctly both of these use a driveshaft from the mule drive, so something is missing in order to mount both.

Edited by Amigatec, June 20, 2012 - 04:22 PM.


#44 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2012 - 09:08 PM

About two years ago there was an allis GT with tiller on CL for free. I called and of course it was already gone. Next day it shows up in this guys ebay listing for $1200. Runs for a month or so and he splits them. Runs for another month and goes into Buy It Now or best offer. The seperate pieces are then sold.

No I dont buy anything from him.




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