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Massey 12 Hydro-Cracked Frame?


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#16 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2012 - 09:32 PM

Very nice repair!

That's a lot more than I did to my tractor with the same damage.

#17 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2012 - 09:36 PM

That should hold it for some time.

#18 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2012 - 09:45 PM

Very nice repair!

That's a lot more than I did to my tractor with the same damage.

That should hold it for some time.


With the information here about other frame failures, plus my own uncertainty of the quality of my welding, I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.

#19 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2012 - 09:47 PM

Looks good reinforced and all. :thumbs:

#20 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2012 - 10:27 PM

With the information here about other frame failures, plus my own uncertainty of the quality of my welding, I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.


And you did the right thing!

I had a specific cause for the failure on mine and finally did the major repair at the source at the source and a minor repair on the tractor. When I sold the tractor, I let the new owner know about the repair. Since he was a welder from my workplace, I felt confident that he would address the issue with a lot more skill than I. He totally refurbished the tractor and used it for another 12 years before he sold it.

#21 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2012 - 02:25 AM

Great Job on that repair! Now I know what to check on my MF12, Thanks for all the great info :thumbs:

#22 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2012 - 07:02 AM

So when DID it fall through the ice?

What do you think of my plan to grind out a "V", weld it, then put a piece of steel across the joint?


Haven't been on in a while.
Looks great what you did there. Plenty strong I would think.
GT fell through on Mar 20th. Way to early. That heat wave was too strong.

#23 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2012 - 07:27 AM

Great Job on that repair! Now I know what to check on my MF12, Thanks for all the great info :thumbs:

Glad someone else can use the help, just paying it forward. :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana:
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#24 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2012 - 08:55 PM

More Update:
I reassembled the tractor, the only problem was the left side foot rest hit the added material and wouldn't fit back into position. I ground out about 1/4 inch from the edge and then everything went well. I also worked on the Fwd/Rev adjustment and found that the cam lever for the "return to Neutral" pedal was bent and not working properly. Now, I've never really driven a hydro before, this one with the cracked frame I knew had a problem with the neutral adjustment and the lever tended to rapidly advance forward by itself, almost certainly because the frame was flexing. The hydro I rescued from the dump has a tendency to do the same thing.
NOW THIS TRACTOR HAS A SMOOTH HYDRO! I couldn't believe it when I cranked it and drove it. It has a smooth transition from forward to reverse, and it holds speed very well, to the point I can take my hand off the handle. Since the control rod for the hydro crossed the cracked frame, the flexing of the frame must have affected the ability to smoothly control the hydro. Now that the frame is solid, so is the speed control!

On to the mowing performance test:
I put a mower deck that I have been using this year under the tractor and began cutting the grass. I was disappointed at this point, though, because the engine seems to lack the power to really pull the mower deck at any speed. Since I have used this deck on a 12G tecumseh, and my 12H clone, I'm assuming the deck is in OK shape; I did adjust it so the front blade is about 1/4 inch lower than the back blade. Now, it has been a wet spring, and my lawn has some fairly nice thick stands of fescue in it at this point in the year. Still, I cut the lawn about 8 days ago, with the honda clone, and the speed limit was more about how much I was willing to be rattled around than anything else. Engine has fresh oil, good gas, and I did find a new air filter to put in it. It doesn't appear to burn oil, but I haven't checked the compression in it. I also haven't checked for mice nests, but the engine is very clean looking and the whole tractor was painted recently. It is possible that the engine has point ignition, I need to check that closely. Anyone got any pointers about why the engine just seems to lack power?

#25 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2012 - 09:18 PM

Your pictures in the 1st post in this thread show an engine that has Electronic ignition so that means you have no points.
I'd check the carbs main jet, make sure it's adjusted right, also the governor check to see that it is opening up the throttle under load.

Setting the mower deck up the way you did, a little lower at the front is the right way to do it. It will cut better and takes the least amount of power to drive it.
You are cutting at the same height?
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#26 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2012 - 09:30 PM

Good eye on that first pic, I had forgotten that. Here is what I saw today that made me think "must have points",. What do you think?GE 003.JPG

#27 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2012 - 09:53 PM

That's the spot where they would go but that engine was not made for them.
This one has points
hh 002.jpg

Here's another variation of the blocks that doesn't have points, this one is probably a late model engine where yours is an earlier version of the SSI motors.
hh 001.jpg
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#28 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2012 - 10:29 PM

Got it. So unless the flywheel is mis-aligned I don't have a timing issue.

Edited by HowardsMF155, May 02, 2012 - 10:30 PM.


#29 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2012 - 07:30 PM

Did a bit more testing and probing today. First test was to take the deck off the 12H and put it on the 12G, since that one has a 12 hp Tecumseh engine. The grass was certainly thick and long. I couldn't run fast, but it did seem able to move at a faster clip than the hydro without bogging the engine down. I then pulled into the hydro a bit, pulling off the tin at the flywheel and looking for blocked cooling fins. Everything was clean. I then did a compression test and came up with 30 lbs. I added some oil to the cylinder and tried again and this time read 60 lbs. Out of curiosity, I checked the engine in the 12 G and came up with 30 Lbs! Anyone have a spec on the recommended compression of this engine?

#30 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2012 - 10:25 PM

I've found that with the compression release, it's tough to be accurate on compression. That said, most of them have been around 55-57 without oil in the cyl. Sounds like you may be needing rings or possibly a valve job.

Are you sure you have good head gaskets? Another thing you might try is turn the engine so both valves are closed and put some (60-80 lbs) air in the spark plug hole. If there is air leaking, you should be able to track it down.
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