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K 341 Kohler Conversion To Electronic Ignition


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#16 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2014 - 11:40 AM

I believe this person made them for Kirkengines that I referenced earlier:  http://overnight-sol...les/Page739.htm

Used it over a year and will not go back to points.  The 120 sat for 4 months without being started and fired on the first try when fuel got into the carb.  It starts much better in extreme cold and much easier in the heat.  Very easy to set timing too.   

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Edited by Trav1s, May 05, 2014 - 11:42 AM.


#17 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2014 - 11:50 AM

I'm even later to the party :D  

Another option- Check out Midwest Super Cubs single cyl crank trigger ignition setup. It uses a ring with a magnet on it that goes over crank, then a pickup/switch module. I think it was desinged for use with Kohlers. I use the switch by itself on my Tecumseh after I glued a magnet into my flywheel. Then you just need a bosch blue coil and plug wire.

 

http://www.mcssl.com...rigger-ignition-

 

http://www.mcssl.com...super-blue-coil



#18 victor3ranger OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2014 - 09:11 AM

Trav1s, Is that thing a plug and play setup??

I tried to open the link but wasn't able to, how much do they cost??



#19 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2014 - 06:50 PM

It is plug n play. I will post more later

#20 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2014 - 10:15 PM

Here is the main web page:  http://www.overnight...s.com/index.htm

Send them an email and inquire if the "pointslayer" that Kirkengines used to sell is available. 

 

IIRC - one wire to coil, one to ignition and ground to install.  Hot spark and no parts to wear out.  Worth the money in my book.



#21 victor3ranger OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2014 - 10:52 AM

Will do, thanks Trav



#22 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2014 - 01:48 PM

Let me know if you have any more questions

#23 macdoe OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2014 - 06:29 PM

The magnum has an extended depth oil pan. Initially it did not look like my aqs pan would fit. I took the extended pan off the magnum and saw that, underneath the gasket there are holes drilled that line up with my aqs oil pan....but they need to be tapped with threads to bolt on the old aqs oil pan. That's easy enough, but then we noticed that unlike the aqs block...this magnum block has some fillets cut into the base part of the block that are not contained by the aqs oil pan...in other words, unless we can fit a thin plate between the aqs pan and the magnum block, to cover the fillets then oil will pour out....

Also noticed that the crank shafts are different diameters...the magnum engine has larger journals than our old aqs motor. A flywheel swap is not possible because of this.

If this camshaft in the magnum engine does not work, it is not going to be a very good parts motor at all. The magnum does have balance gears, but I am really not confident in them because, I can wiggle them around with my fingers.

All seems like a lot of work to make this magnum work....oh yeah and because the crank is bigger, my mower clutch won't fit.

I can see far enough in to the magnum to determine that the cam does have material where the ignition lobe is on my old aqs cam, now, whether the lobe is ground to the correct profile to fit into my aqs motor is a qusetion that I can only answer by taking the cam out of the magnum motor and it would seem a shame to take it apart if it works with merely a new carb.

I really only needed a cam from this magnum motor to make my aqs ready to re-assemble, but if it is not going to work anyways there is no point taking the magnum apart.

#24 Juneau OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2014 - 12:58 PM

How about that little rubber plug that goes on the wire where it exits through the points cover? Silicone sealer would probably work there.

Silicone seems to work pretty good.  I was having moisture issues with just the gasket.



#25 PullingTractor OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2016 - 10:05 PM

Ignition resistors with a higher ohms value are known as "Point Savers." The higher the ohms resistance an ignition resistor has, being if it's a ballast resistor and/or a resistor inside an ignition coil, the longer the ignition points contacts will last (as long as the points/contacts are installed clean, and doesn't become contaminated with dust, oil or water). A 12 volt ignition coil with a 3+ ohm internal resistor connected to a 1.8 ohm ballast resistor (highest value ballast resistor available) when used in a points/condenser ignition system will allow the points to possibly last the life of the engine. Because the increased resistance allows a very low current (flow of voltage) to pass through the points contacts, resulting in much less electrical arcing of the contacts. This will drastically reduce the premature burning away of the platinum on the points contacts. The coil will still provide plenty of spark to the spark plug because an average small engine requires only a fraction of voltage from the coil.


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