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Bushhog D4-7 Transaxle S900


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#1 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 10:46 AM

I bought this D4-7 with the rear transaxle in parts.....there were new bearings, gears, etc in the box. The pictures below are after I had cleaned and sorted most of the parts. This is my first time putting back together a transmission.......so I am needing some guidance......I will do this in a couple of threads so not to confuse the questions. First pictures are of the parts as I start.

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  • BHD47rearendparts1.JPG
  • BHD47REARENDPARTS3.JPG
  • BHD47transaxleparts4.JPG
  • BHRearEndParts2.JPG

Edited by sacsr, April 14, 2012 - 10:51 AM.


#2 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 10:50 AM

First issue. When working on the pinion shaft.....I noticed the collar was not sliding up and down on the woodruff keys and locking up like it should....it will got forward easy but wants to lock up going back toward the pinion gear. I am guessing this is the "high - low" choice for the transaxle......if I am right do I take it apart and put in new woodruff keys?? Screwdriver points in woodruff key that seems to be holding it up from moving toward the gear.

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  • BHD47pinioncollar1.JPG


#3 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 10:53 AM

Issue number 2:


Cam shift guide (S1033) seems to be pretty worn.....anybody replaced one??

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  • BHD47shftcamguideworn.JPG
  • BHD47shiftcamguideworn2.JPG


#4 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 10:55 AM

Issue #3

I can not figure out what this bearing and washers (spacers) goes to.....I have looked over the diagram a bunch of times and can not see where it goes....any help??

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  • BHD47bearingsandwashers.JPG


#5 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 10:56 AM

Issue #4

Diagram shows a bearing and a cup.......part of differential I am pointing to.......it does not turn...should it??

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  • BHD47differentialassembly.JPG

Edited by sacsr, April 14, 2012 - 10:58 AM.


#6 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 12:01 PM

First issue. When working on the pinion shaft.....I noticed the collar was not sliding up and down on the woodruff keys and locking up like it should....it will got forward easy but wants to lock up going back toward the pinion gear. I am guessing this is the "high - low" choice for the transaxle......if I am right do I take it apart and put in new woodruff keys?? Screwdriver points in woodruff key that seems to be holding it up from moving toward the gear.

I would just take the key out and inspect it and the slot it rides in. The smallest burr or high spot will make it bind. I stone all my surfaces when I build things. You can use a fine sharpening stone and honing oil, or use a fine piece of emery paper. With the emery put it on a perfectly flat surface and rub all sides of the key to smooth it out (get rid of high spots and burrs) use a small ignition file to get rid of burrs inside of the hub ( shift dog) you will feel as you file if there are high spots as the file will catch on them. I have rebuilt many gear boxes in my line of work. and I have seen many people skip fitting keys on shafts and then they wonder why there units fail.I hope I explained this ok. I am better at doing vs typing my thought.
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#7 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 12:03 PM

Issue #4

Diagram shows a bearing and a cup.......part of differential I am pointing to.......it does not turn...should it??

I don't know this trans, but that screw driver looks to be pointing at a bearing race, looks like there should be a bearing riding on that surface.
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#8 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 12:17 PM

I bought this D4-7 with the rear transaxle in parts.....there were new bearings, gears, etc in the box. The pictures below are after I had cleaned and sorted most of the parts. This is my first time putting back together a transmission.......so I am needing some guidance......I will do this in a couple of threads so not to confuse the questions. First pictures are of the parts as I start.

I will just add that make sure to clean clean all shafts good, do not go at them with a coarse grit emery paper. you don't want to remove to much material, polish them with a fine grit, then check for burrs and nicks, if any are found get rid of them with a file or a stone (honing stone) when I stone a shaft I go in the forward direction only. place stone behind the burr, and push forward like you are filing, then lift the stone and set it back at the start, keep going like this until you no longer feel the resistance of the high spot, (you'll see the high spot as you stone it) after this polish with fine emery or crocus cloth. If you feel any binding on parts that slide on a shaft, stop and inspect for other high spots that you may have missed. this takes time but pays off in the end. I have seen many people rush on a gear box only to have to do the same job over again. ( wish I could just show you) Good luck.
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#9 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 01:21 PM

First issue. When working on the pinion shaft.....I noticed the collar was not sliding up and down on the woodruff keys and locking up like it should....it will got forward easy but wants to lock up going back toward the pinion gear. I am guessing this is the "high - low" choice for the transaxle......if I am right do I take it apart and put in new woodruff keys?? Screwdriver points in woodruff key that seems to be holding it up from moving toward the gear.


Yes, remove the slider. Once you get in there, you may find crud and/or corrosion is the culprit. If not, do as Chris said and dress up the key, or replace is worn bad.....dress a new key also.
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#10 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 01:24 PM

Issue #4

Diagram shows a bearing and a cup.......part of differential I am pointing to.......it does not turn...should it??


That is the inner race, and it should be tight to the diff carrier.

I don't know this trans, but that screw driver looks to be pointing at a bearing race, looks like there should be a bearing riding on that surface.


No bearing rides there. The sliding collar dogs should fully interlock with the gear dogs to the right of the screwdriver.
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#11 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 01:39 PM

Issue number 2:


Cam shift guide (S1033) seems to be pretty worn.....anybody replaced one??


To be honest, I don't even recall that part in my D4-10. I can't find it in my D4-10 parts list either.
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#12 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 01:40 PM

Issue #3

I can not figure out what this bearing and washers (spacers) goes to.....I have looked over the diagram a bunch of times and can not see where it goes....any help??


Can't recall that thrust set either....been too long since having mine apart. BUT, the same type thrust setup is used under many makes in the diff....under each spider gear.
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#13 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 08:12 PM

I will just add that make sure to clean clean all shafts good, do not go at them with a coarse grit emery paper. you don't want to remove to much material, polish them with a fine grit, then check for burrs and nicks, if any are found get rid of them with a file or a stone (honing stone) when I stone a shaft I go in the forward direction only. place stone behind the burr, and push forward like you are filing, then lift the stone and set it back at the start, keep going like this until you no longer feel the resistance of the high spot, (you'll see the high spot as you stone it) after this polish with fine emery or crocus cloth. If you feel any binding on parts that slide on a shaft, stop and inspect for other high spots that you may have missed. this takes time but pays off in the end. I have seen many people rush on a gear box only to have to do the same job over again. ( wish I could just show you) Good luck.




Where do I buy a honing stone?? Any particular type?? Never used on before. Thanks

#14 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 11:28 PM

Where do I buy a honing stone?? Any particular type?? Never used on before. Thanks

You can use a knife sharpening stone (small is best) I have many different size, shape and grit stones, but my boss always ordered them for me, not sure from were. I'll check around and see if Ebay or grainger has them.Even at work I always took pride in my rebuilds, I stone all surfaces before I assemble anything, I can tell you also, I have never had a leak of any type of fluid on anything I have rebuilt,I never use sealant either. One thing allot of people don't realize is that when you torque things down the threads tend to pull up. thus leaving a high spot, so you take it apart , install a new gasket, then find even with a new gasket and clean surface it still leaks.I guess you could say I'm a stoner. :laughingteeth:
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#15 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 07:03 AM

To be honest, I don't even recall that part in my D4-10. I can't find it in my D4-10 parts list either.


Daniel, I think you will find these only in the D4-7 (S900) and T63 (S577) transmissions.......these two share the almost identical transaxles except the D4-7 has a PTO and the t63 does not.....I have also noticed one set of gearings on the 63 are in seperate pieces but in the D4-7 it is now a one piece unit......so figure they made a few improvements along the way. The axles in the T63 and D4-7 are the same.....but the D4-10 has a different axle.

Almost every one of my BH have transmission issues.....I am glad I have been picking up parts tractors.....looks like I am going to need them!!

Edited by sacsr, April 15, 2012 - 07:05 AM.





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