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Getting Deeper Into The '650

bolens 650 10hp tecumseh. rings

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#61 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 02:51 PM

updated pics (redo not restore)...

05-10-12_1944.jpg 0054a.jpg IMG_6729b.jpg IMG_6732a.jpg IMG_6733a.jpg IMG_6737.JPG IMG_6738.JPG

#62 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 08:24 PM

Looks alot better than before, Keep up the good work :thumbs:

#63 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 06:56 AM

Looks alot better than before, Keep up the good work :thumbs:


thanks 'Doc, still tryin to track down correct belt guard to get, have seen a few but don't see it in manual.?.. goodday 2u!

#64 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 10:08 PM

2208.jpg 2200.jpg 2201.jpg 1629.jpg

#65 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 06:01 AM

thanks 'Doc, still tryin to track down correct belt guard to get, have seen a few but don't see it in manual.?.. goodday 2u!


Here's a pic of the Guard assembly

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  • guard.jpg

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#66 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 06:42 AM

'Doc thanks, for whatever reason I thought it was u shaped & completely missed this...rookies

#67 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 07:26 AM

The type of belt guides shown in Brian's pic were used on the B&S engines. .....It was probably removed when the B&S engine was replaced with the Tecumseh, as that guide would not fit the Tecumseh engine.

You may have to improvise and fabricate your own upper belt guide to fit that engine.

What model Tecumseh is that? ....It may or may not accept the same type of belt guide used on the HH100, HH120, HH140, & HH160 Tecumseh engines used on other Bolens Tube-frame models.
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#68 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 07:33 AM

The type of belt guides shown in Brian's pic were used on the B&S engines. .....It was probably removed when the B&S engine was replaced with the Tecumseh, as that guide would not fit the Tecumseh engine.

You may have to improvise and fabricate your own upper belt guide to fit that engine.

What model Tecumseh is that? ....It may or may not accept the same type of belt guide used on the HH100, HH120, HH140, & HH160 Tecumseh engines used on other Bolens Tube-frame models.


Thanks Bruce, I forgot that the original engine was missing on this tractor :wallbanging:

Have you tried a shorter belt to see if that would stay on? The Tecumseh engine's pulley may sit lower than the Briggs did, making the belt that is on there now too long.
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#69 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 08:01 AM

Have you tried a shorter belt to see if that would stay on? The Tecumseh engine's pulley may sit lower than the Briggs did, making the belt that is on there now too long.


I think a shorter belt may make matters worse. .....If I remember correctly, one of the problems is/was grinding while shifting, with significant wear on the brake pads. ....If the replacement Tecumseh engine was installed with the original spacers under the engine, the centerline of the crankshaft should be at the original height of the B&S engine. ....If there are no spacers under the engine, then a shorter belt may be helpful.

I suspect that lack of proper belt guides caused the drive belt to keep spinning the lower pulley, causing the driveshaft to keep turning.

While belt guides do help prevent a belt from being "thrown" from a pulley, one of the primary purpose of a belt guide is to control where the belt slack is located when tension is removed from the belt. ....In the case of the Bolens 650, the clutch causes tension to be removed from the drive belt, so the belt slack needs to be controlled.

It is difficult to explain clearly using words, but the correct belt guides force the slack to occur at the engine pulley. ....The guides prevent the slack from spreading "outward toward the sides", and direct most of the slack toward the top of the pulley groove. .....If the slack is not controlled correctly, the belt will drag on the drive side of the pulley, and the belt will keep turning.

The goal is to have the engine pulley turn without having the belt touch the pulley, when the clutch is depressed while the engine is running.

The same principle applies to the PTO belt. ....If the upper & lower belt guides are not in their proper places, the PTO will want to keep turning when the engine is running.

Edited by Bruce Dorsi, May 15, 2012 - 08:04 AM.

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#70 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 08:17 AM

Thanks Bruce, I forgot that the original engine was missing on this tractor :wallbanging:

Have you tried a shorter belt to see if that would stay on? The Tecumseh engine's pulley may sit lower than the Briggs did, making the belt that is on there now too long.


wasn't watching this develop as it stands now, we adjusted the pulley which at the time of the plow event kept slack in check, haven't run it since taking brakes down. Was reflecting on engine swap. not sure if pulley adjustment is stand alone...I'm paying attention to what you're teachin'...

{Hm100, no shorter belt attempted.}

#71 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 11:12 AM

1208a.jpg 2259a.jpg IMG_0124b.jpg
sounds like measurements might be helpful at some point..

#72 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 01:13 PM

Today I tried to get familiar with gear case on mower deck, nice. could have used some guidance along the way. here's a view, wondering what needs changing and what may be ok for now..(just another place I've never been)

IMG_6740.JPG IMG_6742.JPG IMG_6743.JPG
IMG_6748.JPG

...should I be trying to remove pully and gear? If so will I need specific tools (which I likeky don't have?) recommended methods, do's- don'ts..
thanks.

#73 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 07:15 PM

IMG_6749.JPG IMG_6751.JPG IMG_6752.JPG IMG_6755.JPG IMG_6756.JPG

#74 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 07:18 PM

Sorry I'm responding to this so late....

Looks like something broke loose in the housing at one point and made quite the mess.
That one gear looks like its just about shot. If the gear was in good shape I'd say rebuild it and replace the bearings and seals, but since gears are so pricey you may be better off finding a decent used gear box on ebay for around $30-$40
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#75 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 07:30 PM

Sorry I'm responding to this so late....

Looks like something broke loose in the housing at one point and made quite the mess.
That one gear looks like its just about shot. If the gear was in good shape I'd say rebuild it and replace the bearings and seals, but since gears are so pricey you may be better off finding a decent used gear box on ebay for around $30-$40


Hey Doc, no worries, had some and worked through 'em, anytime you stop by is a good check in. if I were to go with the ebay option, couldn't I likewise inherit a unknown bag of 'heylookie'? sellers' not likely to post pics of the guts..yeh?




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