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Started Working On The Bush Hog Hd-12

bush hog hd-12 wisconsin hydro

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#121 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 08:52 PM

I am surprised at this being non-adjustable!  


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#122 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 08:57 PM

Doing some searching on the carb and I came across one of my other posts. http://gardentractor...ts/#entry159804

 

Looks like I found that the main jet looked like it was enlarged and I was having issues with it above half throttle being too rich before. I will check with the site sponsors and see if I can get lucky with an adjustable carb.



#123 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 09:07 PM

Here is a link to the carb I have on Zenith's website. http://www.zenithfue...edraft_1408.htm

 

I am wondering if the main adjustment that shows as optional is still available. I think this carb was a replacement at some point. From the digging I found I think the orignal should have been a 13084A



#124 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 09:17 PM

I'm sure the carb has been replaced.  I've not seen carbs of that vintage that had no main adjustments.


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#125 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 09:36 AM

Carburetor number is 13064 L8SD. Will post pictures shortly.


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#126 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 10:18 AM

Here are some pictures ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364311078.723842.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364311090.134614.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364311102.949836.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364311113.359779.jpg
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#127 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 11:02 AM

I guess I will see if I can't get the optional jet kit. I would say my carb is definitely a replacement. Going to scrounge through some of the parts we have for engines and see if I don't have a jet I could use or a carb off of another Wisconsin that would work.



#128 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 12:30 PM

George check but the replacement zenith carb for the 13064 is 13155 L86G....need to verify but 99.999% sure I am right on this.May can find one of these easier


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#129 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 12:32 PM

this link may help you decide

 

http://www.asecc.com...carburetor.html


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#130 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 12:55 PM

I wonder if this would work? https://www.denniski...prd/H170550.sku



#131 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 03:11 PM

I contacted a guy today, he said he had a variable jet set up for $28 bucks.....he had these carbs in the past and that is why i contacted him to see if he had your carb.....he was out of the old stock and only had newer models at $250.... 


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#132 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 04:03 PM

Sounds like Scott can hook you up George!  


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#133 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 10:02 AM

Turns out the carb model on mine is actually 13454. Going by the one page linked to it was used on a Wisconsin V4 engine. Seems like the carb might be a little big and explain why it is so rich on the mid to top end. It idles great though. I am going to try my luck with getting an adjustable main jet first. Don't really want to buy a new carb for over 2 bills.

 

Bob is checking in to the main jet for me and Scott gave me a great lead as well. I want to get it running as best I can before the plow day. Would like to see it make the trip to plow some dirt.

 

It isn't charging and I was going to yank the starter generator off to get it rebuilt but got to looking at a wiring diagram and I think I have two wires that are supposed to be there not there. I will double check my wiring tonight and make sure it is right to see if I can get a charge out of the generator.

 

I still want to change the oil in the hydro and would love to get a cross reference on the filter. Also need to rob the bolt on hitch piece from my D4-10 to hang the Brinly plow off of.  Also want to get the tires filled yet too. With how big them balloons are they should hold a good bit of weight. :D



#134 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 01:06 PM

Look up what filter is called for the EARLY JD140.  It uses the identical differential/hydro.


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#135 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 07:09 PM

I got the wiring fixed and it looks like it is charging now. The ammeter apparently doesn't work so I will eventually get a new one. I took my meter and checked the field wire and it was showing right around 6 volts and then checked the starter cable and it was showing 13.4 volts and I know that battery was only at 12 volts so it is definitely putting out voltage. I found after seeing the wiring diagram that I never hooked up the cable from the starter to the back of the regulator. I had the field wire hooked up though.

 

I took the headlights apart and both light bulbs were still good. I gotta get a screw for the one lens retainer as they had it electrical taped on. Going to use some chrome cleaner and clean up the surrounds. The one reflective plate has lost all of it's chrome / reflective so I don't know how well that light will work. With the way they are though I doubt there are many NOS pieces out there.

 

The rear PTO was making funny noises when disengaged but once engaged the noise went way. So I started investigating what was causing it and it sounded like it was the support bearing at the end of the top shaft. Sure enough the bearing was loose on the shaft and the inner race was spinning when there wasn't any tension on it. I pulled it apart and it looks like it must have been that way for a long time. The shaft has a pretty good groove cut in it. I am going to see if we have any members with a lathe that would want to fill it in with weld and cut it back to correct size on the lathe or I guess I could have a local machine shop do it. I could weld it myself.

 

The other thing I need to find is a new bearing. It looks like it would be the same bearing as what is found on the Bolens drive shafts. I will post a couple pictures in the next post. I am going to leave the rear PTO unhooked for now until I get everything fixed. It is also looking like I will need to get a new battery. I was hoping this one would have come back around but it just doesn't have the cranking amps when the engine is cold.


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