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Started Working On The Bush Hog Hd-12

bush hog hd-12 wisconsin hydro

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#16 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 05:00 AM

Nice Bush Hog you got your self there.
Maybe you could just give it a real good clean up, fix whatever mechanically is wrong with it so it's in good working order.
Then next winter when you have more time, full tear down, rebuild and paint.
This way you get to use and enjoy it now, it doesn't look to bad the way it is.
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#17 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2012 - 08:47 PM

I am just going to get the engine done and then get it back together so I can enjoy it. We need to do something for a sandblaster which will hopefully happen by winter.

I did get the carb redone. I think the issues with it seeming like it was flooding out when trying to go above half throttle was because of the float being set too high and having too much gas in the bowl. I will find out once we get the engine back together.

Now as far as getting the Wisonsin S12D engine torn down. We loaded it in one of the garden carts and dad hauled it outside to the edge of the drive. I sprayed degreaser on it and let it sit for a little while we hooked up the pressure washer. Got it all cleaned up and then took it back to the workbench. Drained the oil out of it which smelled really strong of gas, which is more then likely from running too rich. Once we got the oil drained we tried to get the nut loose on the flywheel with no luck.

We don't have a 1 11/16" wrench and we also don't have a socket that large. I don't think a deep well socket would work anyway because of how far the shaft sticks out. So we used the big heavy adjustable wrench and didn't have any luck breaking it loose. Going to try a suggestion from Daniel tomorrow with a punch. We don't have an acetylene torch so heating the nut red hot is not an option.

#18 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 06:58 AM

Now as far as getting the Wisonsin S12D engine torn down. We loaded it in one of the garden carts and dad hauled it outside to the edge of the drive. I sprayed degreaser on it and let it sit for a little while we hooked up the pressure washer. Got it all cleaned up and then took it back to the workbench. Drained the oil out of it which smelled really strong of gas, which is more then likely from running too rich. Once we got the oil drained we tried to get the nut loose on the flywheel with no luck.

We don't have a 1 11/16" wrench and we also don't have a socket that large. I don't think a deep well socket would work anyway because of how far the shaft sticks out. So we used the big heavy adjustable wrench and didn't have any luck breaking it loose. Going to try a suggestion from Daniel tomorrow with a punch. We don't have an acetylene torch so heating the nut red hot is not an option.


I'd stay away from heating that nut ,I think you need a impact to get that loosened off. Maybe take that engine to someone, a garage who has a socket and gun big enough to get it loosened off.

#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 08:17 AM

I'd stay away for heat also. It would radiate back through the crankshaft. An impact sounds like the best bet.

#20 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 08:33 AM

Heated fast, the heat wouldn't have time to pass through the crank much at all. As George reminded me, an impact can't be used because of the length of the crank extension that the pto clutch mounts onto. Unless you have a socket about 6 to 7" long, that's not an option.

#21 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 08:42 AM

Didn't realize the crank stuck out that far! That would be a very deep socket. Try some acetone/atf mix on it! I've had good luck with some might rusted bolts with it.

#22 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 08:46 AM

I forgot about the wax treatment! Just heat the nut good & warm with a propane torch for about a minute, then rub a candle against the threaded area, allowing the candle wax to melt & penetrate. I've never tried it myself, but have heard a LOT of people singing praises for the method.
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#23 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 09:18 AM

Heated fast, the heat wouldn't have time to pass through the crank much at all. As George reminded me, an impact can't be used because of the length of the crank extension that the pto clutch mounts onto. Unless you have a socket about 6 to 7" long, that's not an option.


Can you use a Box end wrench with a length of pipe on it?

#24 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 10:25 AM

Anxiously awaiting George for an update. Hope he is successful getting that nut off.

#25 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 11:09 AM

Well, I have some good news. I got the nut loose. I used a punch and after looking at it more that is how they must have removed it before and put it back on. I smacked it with the punch two times and then put the crescent wrench back on it and gave it a good whack and it broke loose.

However the flywheel will not budge. I don't have a babbit hammer or a lead hammer so I don't want to hit the crank too hard to get the flywheel to pop off the taper. I tried putting some leverage behind the flywheel with a pry bar while hitting the end of the crank with my plastic tipped hammer. I did try the BFH with lighter taps and it didn't budge. I took the nut completely off and sprayed PB Blaster in there and will let it sit for a while.

#26 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 12:56 PM

Are there tapped holes in the flywheel for a puller to bolt to? It's amazing how tight a hold the taper fits has!
Please post a pic of the flywheel front & area behind it.

#27 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 01:01 PM

Are there tapped holes in the flywheel for a puller to bolt to? It's amazing how tight a hold the taper fits has!
Please post a pic of the flywheel front & area behind it.


I will go out and get a couple of pics and post them then.

#28 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 03:34 PM

Hopefully the pics turned out alright. I took them with my phone.

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#29 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 03:43 PM

It's tough when they don't put threaded holes for a puller. You can try shocking it loose, by taking a brass drift or a block of wood and pounding in a circle around the crank. You could make 2 wooden wedges and tap them in behind the flywheel, then hit the end of the crank with a dead blow hammer. Good luck George!

#30 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 04:38 PM

Yep, without pulling holes, it's scary getting them off. If it were mine, I'd wedge a cold chisel under the flywheel, one to each side, where there is engine block as a backer. I usually can find chisels that will just lightly drive in, putting a forward pre-load on the flywheel. Then I use a hammer against a brass drift on the crank end. Hardwood wedges may work, but you only have a few thousands of crank end-play to wok with. The taken up end-play is what pops them loose when the shock/push hits it. If you use wood, the wood usually compresses, taking away the "push", leaving you with just the shock factor. 2 advantages are better than just one. I sure hate hitting on the end of a crank, but have had to do it many a time. Only problem I ever had was with an old Kohler with a threaded end, and I was using a puller. When I tapped the tightened puller, the threaded end of the crank broke right off! No worries with that on this one with that large crankshaft extension.





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