Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Ball Lock Clutch?


  • Please log in to reply
20 replies to this topic

#16 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

Lauber1

    DB restorer

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4926
  • 3,456 Thanks
  • 2,801 posts
  • Location: S.E.IOWA

Posted May 19, 2012 - 01:29 PM

i wouldnt alter the mounting plate, as it will reduce the value of the tractor. Tractors that havent been modified are always the best. There is a solution to the problem......make a fake plate that has the bolts welded inot it that match both the top and bottom ones. Someday you might find an orginal style engine and could put the tractor back to right again.

#17 Amigatec OFFLINE  

Amigatec

    Collector of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5899
  • 2,023 Thanks
  • 3,172 posts
  • Location: Haskell Oklahoma

Posted May 19, 2012 - 02:17 PM

I mounted a 5 hp B&S from a Troy Bilt tiller to my 5756, and it bolted down using the original holes. The motor was built about 1978.

#18 heatseaker1 OFFLINE  

heatseaker1
  • Member
  • Member No: 9263
  • 26 Thanks
  • 35 posts
  • Location: Kokomo, IN

Posted May 19, 2012 - 03:41 PM

good point, i'll figure out a way to mount it without cutting on the plate. the stock wisconsin acn is a good deal bigger than the 5 hp briggs i'll be using

#19 Amigatec OFFLINE  

Amigatec

    Collector of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5899
  • 2,023 Thanks
  • 3,172 posts
  • Location: Haskell Oklahoma

Posted May 19, 2012 - 03:54 PM

On the 5144 tractor they used a plate mounted to the bottom of the motor and had pipe spacers going through the mount.
  • heatseaker1 said thank you

#20 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

Lauber1

    DB restorer

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4926
  • 3,456 Thanks
  • 2,801 posts
  • Location: S.E.IOWA

Posted May 20, 2012 - 01:17 PM

ok, here some pictures of what happens when it goes bad. As it would come aprt i decide to get a little more rough with it. Naturally it cracked so then we just killed it off the nut.
001.JPG
See here some pictures of the nut still on the shaft, held by a pin that goes though the nut and shaft, then a picture of a renewed nut, marked where the flat spots are so you dont jam the set screw into the threaded area.
002.JPG 006.JPG

The new outer pully is from a Suburban rider. On both tractor this is the reverser pully, instead to the more flat faced hub used on most ball locks. Notice this pullys hub has a hex casting to make adjusting easier.
007.JPG

I'll paint it later on, since i ran it though the blaster cabinet, just want to get the machine going again as i need it for use right now.

#21 heatseaker1 OFFLINE  

heatseaker1
  • Member
  • Member No: 9263
  • 26 Thanks
  • 35 posts
  • Location: Kokomo, IN

Posted May 21, 2012 - 06:56 AM

I have the same type of pulley on my 112, I can't remember per the manual if it was supposed to be like that or replaced at some time. It did help in removing cause I was able to get a good grab there with come big channel locks.




Top