Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Ball Lock Clutch?


  • Please log in to reply
20 replies to this topic

#1 heatseaker1 OFFLINE  

heatseaker1
  • Member
  • Member No: 9263
  • 26 Thanks
  • 35 posts
  • Location: Kokomo, IN

Posted April 09, 2012 - 07:05 PM

What is the deal with this thing? I need to get it apart to clean it up and inspect it since it will not engage/disengage but I can't get the adjustment sleeve off. I can get it to move about an 1/8th of a turn but thats it I have been working it back and forth for hours with no improvent. I know someone will ask so I will say, yes the set screw/s are removed. I have tapped out the holes in the sleeve as I saw in a how to that I found in the yahoo group. Does anyone have any tricks to this thing? Oh yeah I'm looking for a speed changer sheeve as stated in a previous post.

Thanks folks

#2 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

Lauber1

    DB restorer

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4926
  • 3,440 Thanks
  • 2,796 posts
  • Location: S.E.IOWA

Posted April 09, 2012 - 07:19 PM

well sometimes the're a devil to get apart. Soak it down with some PB balster and let it sit. Move it everyday back and forth and it will see it your way soner or later.

We have also had to use a pipe wrench to get them to move. What happens is sometime people putthe setscrews in the hole with a thread atthe bottom. There are threads on the big center nut on every other flat. If you can turn it one tourn then it should come aprt
  • Alc and heatseaker1 have said thanks

#3 heatseaker1 OFFLINE  

heatseaker1
  • Member
  • Member No: 9263
  • 26 Thanks
  • 35 posts
  • Location: Kokomo, IN

Posted April 09, 2012 - 09:59 PM

I'm beginning to think that someone did just that and buggered up the threads. I can get it to move some and it does so fairly easy but it gets jammed up either way. I've had it soaking in PB blaster for the last couple days. I'll let it soak and just keep working at it I guess.

Thanks for the info

#4 Steven N OFFLINE  

Steven N

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 6832
  • 20 Thanks
  • 44 posts
  • Location: Taylor County, Ky 10 miles from Campbellsville

Posted April 10, 2012 - 05:46 AM

One of the many frustrations with working on old stuff. Good luck with it. Let us know when you get it off; I love a success story.

#5 IWLBCNU OFFLINE  

IWLBCNU

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5214
  • 120 Thanks
  • 157 posts
  • Location: Barboursville, VA

Posted April 12, 2012 - 12:36 PM

If you have it moving you already won the battle, just keep working it back and forth forcing it a tad more each time and it will clean up the threads.

#6 heatseaker1 OFFLINE  

heatseaker1
  • Member
  • Member No: 9263
  • 26 Thanks
  • 35 posts
  • Location: Kokomo, IN

Posted April 12, 2012 - 10:22 PM

I'm trying, I haven't touched it for a couple days due to being busy and generally frustrated with it but I'll be sure to post when it comes loose.

#7 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

Lauber1

    DB restorer

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4926
  • 3,440 Thanks
  • 2,796 posts
  • Location: S.E.IOWA

Posted April 13, 2012 - 12:33 AM

  • Something else came to mind tonite. It was a practice sometimes tha t DB put a second set screw down in the hole under the first one. You dont see it often but it has happened on severel here. I'd check that out and make sure you dont have another one holding on.
Be patience, it hasnt been off there in several yrs and they kind of like to stay at home. If this is your first one let us know when it come aprt, then we can tell you how to get the inner nut off the shaft.

#8 heatseaker1 OFFLINE  

heatseaker1
  • Member
  • Member No: 9263
  • 26 Thanks
  • 35 posts
  • Location: Kokomo, IN

Posted April 13, 2012 - 11:23 AM

No second screw. I can see down to the adjustment ring.

#9 heatseaker1 OFFLINE  

heatseaker1
  • Member
  • Member No: 9263
  • 26 Thanks
  • 35 posts
  • Location: Kokomo, IN

Posted May 15, 2012 - 12:03 PM

Well its stuck tight enough that I snapped one of the grade 8 bolts I had in the adjusting ring to pry against. Any other ideas as to how to get thing apart?

#10 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

Lauber1

    DB restorer

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4926
  • 3,440 Thanks
  • 2,796 posts
  • Location: S.E.IOWA

Posted May 15, 2012 - 12:19 PM

Well now your at the place we did nt want to get to. Heat from a torch may be the next step. You would have to heat up the casting and try to break the rust free of the inner nut. Another way i have used is with an air hammer, and shock the casting, again to break the rust lock. The final phase of a bad clutch is to break the casting around the nut. If you have another outer plate, then this might be the place your going to have to look at. Im thinking if you have movement then it should come off if you can hold the two parts. Most of the time you cant get it to move any at all, and then you have to resort to more violent means.


Im currnetly working one that stuck tight here. Brought my big chain wrench home from work to see if i can get it to see my way.


http://www.geocities...orer2/index.htm

A freind of mine wrote this up yrs back see if it will help you out........
  • Alc said thank you

#11 heatseaker1 OFFLINE  

heatseaker1
  • Member
  • Member No: 9263
  • 26 Thanks
  • 35 posts
  • Location: Kokomo, IN

Posted May 18, 2012 - 03:36 PM

I finally got it apart. Pretty much boiled down to heat, leverage and time. I just heated the crap out of it with a propane torch and was able to get it off. My main problem initially was i wasn't using enough leverage sot I got a big hunk of flat stock and bolted it to the adjusting ring and got on the couter clutch plate with a huge pair of channel locks I had and that did the trick. I got it cleaned up and back together and it works like a champ. Now all I have to do is get the engine mounted and I'm in business.

#12 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

Lauber1

    DB restorer

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4926
  • 3,440 Thanks
  • 2,796 posts
  • Location: S.E.IOWA

Posted May 18, 2012 - 11:26 PM

see i told you it was just a waiting game. Now you should have taken it completely off, put never sieze on the big nut and you wont have to go though this again. Im sure it will need adjusting in the future, if you doing much plowing or pushing snow with it.

#13 Alc OFFLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,446 Thanks
  • 6,611 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted May 19, 2012 - 06:03 AM

Glad to hear you got it loose. I've been reading this thread because never did one yet but learned a few tricks in case I have to , Al

#14 Amigatec OFFLINE  

Amigatec

    Collector of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5899
  • 2,023 Thanks
  • 3,172 posts
  • Location: Haskell Oklahoma

Posted May 19, 2012 - 07:12 AM

I have noticed on my 560 DB, that after you adjust the clutch it helps to turn it by hand a few times to see if it will hang. Also if you engage and disengage the clutch without running the engine it will do the same thing. Now after I mess with it, I like to spin it by hand just to make sure.

#15 heatseaker1 OFFLINE  

heatseaker1
  • Member
  • Member No: 9263
  • 26 Thanks
  • 35 posts
  • Location: Kokomo, IN

Posted May 19, 2012 - 11:19 AM

see i told you it was just a waiting game. Now you should have taken it completely off, put never sieze on the big nut and you wont have to go though this again. Im sure it will need adjusting in the future, if you doing much plowing or pushing snow with it.


Antisieze applied, don't want that hassle again. THe clutch seems to be free and engages fine not under power. Need to alter the engine mounting plate a bit so I can put a spare briggs on it, the original motor was shot and missing parts.




Top