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3 Point Lift Cylinder For Mf14, 16


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#46 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 01:35 PM

Cut off the rod end bushing and weld on a new bushing of the appropriate size. Extend the rod fully and wrap it with wet rags when welding to protect the chrome and seals.

That will shorten it up a bit C-C as well.


That's what I thought had to be done, thanks.

#47 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 05:37 PM

How about cutting off the rod end, and drilling a hole through the rod.
Then build a clevis/bellcrank, off set to the right. That'll shorten the C to C, and do away
with the interference issues I had, at that point.(look closely at the pic I posted, where I
had to grind away at the bellcrank)
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#48 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 05:54 PM

Something like this is what it's going to end up as, these are pictures of your setup.
s3lf1j.jpg P1010007a.JPG

Never thought of drilling a hole in the rod end, putting a pin in and attaching to the side of the bell crank.

#49 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 06:00 PM

Something like this is what it's going to end up as, these are pictures of your setup.
s3lf1j.jpg P1010007a.JPG

Never thought of drilling a hole in the rod end, putting a pin in and attaching to the side of the bell crank.


Right, but build the bellcrank, like a clevis. So you don't side load the rod.

#50 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 06:05 PM

Like this.
Top view.

Attached File  clevis.bmp   46.78KB   79 downloads

#51 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 06:06 PM

Right, but build the bellcrank, like a clevis. So you don't side load the rod.


The ROD is an 1-1/4 thick.

#52 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 06:11 PM

But the seals, and piston don't want side load either.

#53 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 11:46 PM

The ROD is an 1-1/4 thick.


Neither the rod nor the pistons or seals are at serious risk with the potential load involved. There will be a bit more wear. The bellcrank with enough clearance to install and remove the pin is another matter with up to a 2200 lb offset load.

Cross drilling the rod may be a good idea if cylinder clearance when the rod is fully retracted is acceptable. That doesn't leave much meat in the rod to pull with though.
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#54 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2012 - 09:51 PM

I had planned on working on this today, my 1 day off a week, but instead of working on tractors I decided to drive tractors so that's what I did.

#55 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2012 - 05:42 PM

How goes this lift project Doug?

#56 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2012 - 09:30 PM

Project is stalled, been to busy doing other things.
Fixed the broken frame on the 3 wheeler Ransome grass cutter, got another 3 wheel Ferris to fix for a friend, fixed the neighbors Torro, been cutting lots of grass lately, and trying to clean up outside. So far this week 3 day I come home from work, jump on the 3 wheeler and cut grass till dark, still haven't cut all of it, first cut for my place and it's long.
Working my regular job plus helping out at the green house. They opened last weekend and this weekend is mothers day, the place will be really busy.
Right now there's just not enough time for everything, weather for Sat , Sun looks good so it'll be outside work after I get off work Sat. More grass cutting, work Sun at the green house and try to spend some time fixing the Ferris for my friend.

But it'll get done I hope.

#57 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2012 - 09:33 PM

Never enough hours in the days are there Doug! You'll git-r-done!
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#58 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2012 - 11:28 PM

Yep, I hear you. Not enough time. I've been trying to find some
time to reassemble the MF8E deck for 3 weeks now. Well, at least the paint will be
well cured before I touch it.

#59 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2012 - 09:56 PM

Today I got myself a factory 3pt lift for MF14s and 16s.
$(KGrHqJ,!jYE-dhyoBTiBPtFT8tzQw~~48_20.JPG
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#60 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2012 - 05:42 AM

That is great news, Doug! Can't beat a factory 3-point!




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