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3 Point Lift Cylinder For Mf14, 16


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#31 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 02:05 PM

Possible solutions; lay the cylinder down under the seat a la 1450-1855 tractors, or, along the outside of the frame and behind the tire as I did with my 12H (if clearance allows). I used a 1.5 X 8 cylinder on the 12, with a longer bellcrank for the rockshaft.


Hi Bob.
Would you have any pics of that setup on the 12H ?

#32 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 02:16 PM

Possible solutions; lay the cylinder down under the seat a la 1450-1855 tractors, or, along the outside of the frame and behind the tire as I did with my 12H (if clearance allows). I used a 1.5 X 8 cylinder on the 12, with a longer bellcrank for the rockshaft.



Here's a pic of one I put on my 14 worker. I still had to notch the fender a bit
to make clearance for the rockshaft arm. Seems the 1450-1855 fender is a bit shorter.


P1010006.JPG
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#33 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 02:25 PM

Here's a pic of one I put on my 14 worker. I still had to notch the fender a bit
to make clearance for the rockshaft arm. Seems the 1450-1855 fender is a bit shorter.


P1010006.JPG


Thanks,Will. That leaves outside the frame with the bellcrank under the rockshaft to avoid cutting up the fenderpan. Nothing says the cylinder has to be exactly horizontal.

#34 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 02:31 PM

Hi Bob.
Would you have any pics of that setup on the 12H ?


A. - That was over 30 years ago.

B - I still don't own a camera that I can post pictures with............ or the smarts to figure it out if I did.

Edited by TUDOR, April 10, 2012 - 02:31 PM.


#35 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 02:36 PM

A. - That was over 30 years ago.

B - I still don't own a camera that I can post pictures with............ or the smarts to figure it out if I did.



:bigrofl: Well, I refuse to believe the second part of "B".

#36 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 02:56 PM

:bigrofl: Well, I refuse to believe the second part of "B".


Mental block!

Electronics are harder to figure out than hydraulics, and the controls for hydraulics are soooo much easier to handle while wearing mittens. :p
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#37 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 03:44 PM

I read in another thread that the ends of the arms should have 16" of travel, and be.

4" off the ground in the lowest position
20" off the ground in the highest position

Does this sound about right?


That sounds like a lot of lift for a cat 0. I think that spec may be for a cat 1. I know my x475 with a cat 1 limited would lift about 10". I think my 2320 would lift a full 16" but that might be hard to achieve in a GT. The more lift height you have the less weight you will be able to lift with the same pressure and stroke available.

#38 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 03:45 PM

Mental block!

Electronics are harder to figure out than hydraulics, and the controls for hydraulics are soooo much easier to handle while wearing mittens. :p


That's so true Bob!! :rofl2:

#39 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 06:01 PM

Doug, on that setup I did, the bottom of the cylinder is 8 1/2" off the ground. The cylinder
is 10" pin center to center when retracted. That Princess cylinder isn't going to leave you
much ground clearance, unless you can figure out some fancy bracketry for the rod end
mount.

Thanks Will the next step for me is to get a cylinder and see if I can get it to work, I know I need a compact one like you say.

Possible solutions; lay the cylinder down under the seat a la 1450-1855 tractors, or, along the outside of the frame and behind the tire as I did with my 12H (if clearance allows). I used a 1.5 X 8 cylinder on the 12, with a longer bellcrank for the rockshaft.

Thanks Bob mounting the cylinder horizontal outside the frame, inside the tire I think would work to, like you say.

Here's a pic of one I put on my 14 worker. I still had to notch the fender a bit
to make clearance for the rockshaft arm. Seems the 1450-1855 fender is a bit shorter.
P1010006.JPG

If you mount the cylinder like this it has to pull in to raise the arms instead of pushing out to raise the arms.
I think the cylinder has more power pushing than pulling.
I know that the 1450-1855 use this setup, cylinder pulling in to raise the arms.

#40 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 06:05 PM

That sounds like a lot of lift for a cat 0. I think that spec may be for a cat 1. I know my x475 with a cat 1 limited would lift about 10". I think my 2320 would lift a full 16" but that might be hard to achieve in a GT. The more lift height you have the less weight you will be able to lift with the same pressure and stroke available.


Can someone that has a factory MF14 or 16, and someone that has a factory 1450-1855, 3pt lift measure the travel of the arms at the ends, from all the way up to all the way down.
Be interesting to see if there the same.

Edited by DH1, April 10, 2012 - 06:17 PM.


#41 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2012 - 12:00 AM

If you mount the cylinder like this it has to pull in to raise the arms instead of pushing out to raise the arms.
I think the cylinder has more power pushing than pulling.
I know that the 1450-1855 use this setup, cylinder pulling in to raise the arms.


At 700 psi, about 2200 lb push and 1340 lb pull for the one from PAL. The stock cylinder for the 1655 will pull quite a bit more with its smaller diameter rod, about 1900 lb with a 3/4" rod.

That's a pretty big difference. I know that the 1655 cylinder is pretty much maxed out with the 4850 tiller
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#42 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 05:41 PM

Picked up a cylinder today, stopped in a Princes Auto and saw one, 2" bore 4" stroke. It was the only one they had there that size, there must of been 200 cylinders total, all different sizes on the shelves.
The good thing about this place is if you go there with a busted hyd. hose, they make you a new one with ends, while you wait, fast.
The cylinder I got is made for 1" pins at both ends, the bottom is fine but the top one I'm going to have to modify somehow. It has a retracted length 12" CtoC, and 13-1/2 overall.

001.JPG

#43 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 06:10 PM

Glad you got the cylinder. Bet you get done before me!

#44 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 06:56 PM

They have a pretty good selection of hydraulic supplies at Princess Auto. I had them make 2 hoses for me when I set up my 54 front blade on the 2320. The angle cylinder I was using was from an x475 and the hoses were several feet too short. Like you said, they made them while I did some shopping and they also clean all their hoses after making them. Prices are good as well. It's my favourite store!

#45 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 01:18 PM

The cylinder I got is made for 1" pins at both ends, the bottom is fine but the top one I'm going to have to modify somehow. It has a retracted length 12" CtoC, and 13-1/2 overall.


Cut off the rod end bushing and weld on a new bushing of the appropriate size. Extend the rod fully and wrap it with wet rags when welding to protect the chrome and seals.

That will shorten it up a bit C-C as well.
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