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Help Please, My Yt-12's Axle Popped Out And Other Issues


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#1 towergod OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2012 - 07:54 PM

I have an older, ok old, YT-12 3speed and today for no apparent reason the axle popped out about an inch or so. I pushed the wheel back in and it drove for awhile and of course came out again so I parked it in the shed.

I am thinking somehow the c-clip came out, or might my problems be worse?

What else should I replace while I got the gearbox apart.
It takes some more effort than it should to put it in gear, and shifting from hi to lo requires a rubber mallet. It also will slip a little in 3rd when going up a hill.

I would like to fix it and anything else that I can so I can be done with it, so long as the cost is within my budget and not more than buying another yard tractor.

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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2012 - 04:41 AM

Welcome, towergod! I am no help whatsoever here, but hopefully some with experience with this will be along soon! Looks like you'll have to open it up to see what is going on.

#3 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2012 - 04:42 AM

towergod,welcome to the forum.Glad to have you with us.

#4 ariensman2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2012 - 08:55 AM

I have 3 of these that I have worked on some over the years. First of all, I believe your axle either lost the snap ring or the end of the axle snapped off which is more likely the case. There is a small helical gear on the splined end of this and the machined area is a weak point. This happend to mine several years ago while it was spinning in snow and ice with chains and weights and it was too much for it. The NOS axles were hard to get at that time but I think they are being remanufactured now. These transaxles were manufactured by Foote Ind. and the factory burned to the ground sometime in the 80's I think, and they have since gone out of business. Its an easy fix if you can get an axle but I hope its just the snap ring for you.

As far as the Hi Lo being hard to shift, this is caused by an alluminum detent actuator internal to the transaxle that will not slide smoothly and sometimes regreasing it helps but what I did to mine was file it down some and reshape it to provide smoother shifting with much less effort. If you force it the small metal lever that your shifter link hooks too will bend and then it will never shift right.

Now for the slipping in 3rd thing, This is caused by the shifting fork shaft collars that meshes with the individual gears. This slipping occurs when the meshing lobes get rounded off some on the edges from years of use and will not make a solid contact with the gear and slips out unless you hold the shift lever in place. Replacing these will correct the issue. Then a general regreasing of everything is good, I can't think of any other special service to do to these unless some part of it is not working.

I can lead you to the diagrams online for a better visual if you want to. A word of advice would be these are not impossible to repair but the task will definitely seem daunting to you at first as they look complicated when you first open them up. Also any new parts will be very pricey from Ariens. Best of luck and let us know if we can help you through the repair project.

#5 towergod OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2012 - 09:36 PM

thanks for the warm welcome everyone. ariensman, you are the man, and you make it sound easy. I am not afraid of gears, I used to work in a shop and sometimes we woud rebuilt PTO units, polish the gears, burning away burrs and pitts, etc.

I got just a few more questions though, isnt there some sort of seal on the axles that ought to be replaced when its apart. I would also assume to seal it up with RTV when I put it back together.

I think if its snapped off I might try welding it up, good idea, bad idea?
You say it is a helical gear that shears off, so if that is the case then it ought to be immobilized, but I can smack the axle back in and drive it a few times around the backyard before it pops out again, so does that mean my luck has finally changed, because my luck has been terrible with all things mechanical this week.

Anyway, appreciate the help I keep y'all posted.

#6 ariensman2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2012 - 08:43 AM

Well, it sounds like just a snap ring then but if not, its the axle's machined end that snaps off leaving the axle tip inside the gear. The gear generally stays in place as it is meshed with the differential gears. If you had the shaft out you would notice that the end has a very fine spline machined into it that slips into the gear. I really don't think you could weld it back up as they are finely machined and tight fitting parts, but anything is possible I guess. It will still drive on one axle as they are designed like a regular limited slip differential.

The axle seals are simply a small felt ring to keep dirt out, and the housing halves just go together without any seal or gasket. These don't have oil in them just packed full of grease thus not needing much sealing.


#7 ariensman2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2012 - 09:51 AM

If you find you need parts, check this one out. http://www.ebay.com/...=item56463a0b0d

That is what I did to acquire what I needed. This should be the same as yours without the Hi Lo range.

Edited by ariensman2, April 04, 2012 - 09:54 AM.


#8 towergod OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2012 - 07:16 PM

It will still drive on one axle as they are designed like a regular limited slip differential.


Thats intresting, didnt know it came with traction and I sure could use it. If it had limited slip the clutch packs are long gone.

I am really curious now, who made this axle, I used to think the maker of the tractor but from what I read they typically have them made. I also know a cub cadet uses the same pinion gears as an automotive rear end for which they make a locker for but thats useless knowledge for the day.

#9 ariensman2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2012 - 08:20 PM

Most tractors have a transaxle from a maker like Eaton, Sunstand, Foote etc. The YT12 gear model should be a Foote. I'm not sure if saying limited slip is the correct terminology now that I think of it but it works just like a rear end in your pickup truck. The wheel with the least traction is the one that drives and the other one slips just like when your on ice and it won't go anywhere.

#10 towergod OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2012 - 09:17 PM

Its fixed. It was the "snap ring". What they call a snap ring is more like a thin, flat wire in a helical, springlike shape that when pushed together, somehow was supposed to hold the axle on.

I replaced the "snap ring" with a real snap ring of 5/8" dia, scraped out the dirty looking grease and moved the fresh stuff around, then added some more grease.

I also did not take the axle out, just rolled it on its side with wood and tires to support it. It was a pain and took some trial and effort to get the case back together. Just a heads up for anyone else who has this happen.
There is no reason it cannot be replaced with a standard snap ring, no clearance issues, etc and it holds much better.

I do not know why on earth they would use this "snap thing" instead of a real snap ring, maybe cost? perhaps they made the transaxle too good and needed to build in a destruct mechanism, or maybe the engineer who designed it came from a country where snap rings do not exist. ????

Anyway, thanks for the help, its mowing again, and I almost have this tractor right
  • MH81 said thank you

#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2012 - 09:24 PM

Glad you were able to fix the issue, i bet putting it together like that was interesting.

is it still slipping in third?

#12 ariensman2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2012 - 02:34 PM

It was made to pop off in case the machine was used hard with high torsional forces like when using it with a snowblower or tiller. You should be fine with that snap ring if you use it normally. Glad you got it fixed. That must have been hard to do without removing the transaxle and putting it on a bench.




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