Posted June 15, 2010 - 08:21 AM
Posted June 15, 2010 - 08:26 AM
Edited by mjodrey, June 15, 2010 - 08:39 AM.
Posted June 15, 2010 - 08:26 AM
You will find GTT to be a fun and informative place
Hopefully Someone who knows more than I about case will be along to help....
we would also like to see some pictures of your case
Posted June 15, 2010 - 11:48 AM
Got a used Case 222 and am enjoying it. Read on one of the postings about changing the hydrolic oil as it most likely is the wrong type. How much oil does the resoviour hold? Any help would be appreciated.
How do you intend to use this tractor? Will it always be used in temps above 32 F or do live in a 4 season area and intend to blow or blade snow?
The best choice of oil for strictly warm weather use is 30W motor oil with detergent. For all season use, go with 15W40 multi-grade. One of the best brands is Shell's Rotella T but any high quality motor oil will work just fine. There are two highly essential things you should have.
1. A parts manual for the serial number of your tractor. You can make your own by simply going to Ingersoll Tractors - Quality , clicking on Illustrated Parts List and then scrolling down to the section where the 222 models are noted. Use the serial number from your tractor's ID plate on the dash tower to figure out which parts PDF is correct and then print it out.
2. You also need to spring for about ten bucks to buy the correct Operator's Manual for your tractor. Once again, the serial number comes into play. If you do not have an Ingersoll dealer near you, then send an e-mail to Brian Hildreth at firstname.lastname@example.org or contact him per below. The op manual is a crucial bit of info and once you get it, you will agree just how valuable it is to have.
Salem Power Equipment, LLC
Plymouth, MI 48170
It normally takes about 6 quarts to do an oil change in the hydraulics. Under the tractor (deck off) you will find the valve body that controls the fluid that goes to the drive motor. If you clean the underside off, you will discover a pipe plug that has a recessed hex shaped opening. To remove this plug, you need to first clean it out 100 percent and then use a new, tight fitting Allen style wrench that is inserted ALL THE WAY into this hex opening. TRUST ME. You get one shot at making this plug turn. If you spin the wrench in the plug, you have just made it nearly impossible to ever remove it.
This is the oil drain and it is also the test port for the hydraulic system. That's why it is important to do this right the first time. Remove this plug, remove the engine spark plug, put a clean drain pan under the tractor, use the ignition key to spin the engine over. This will cause the oil to be pumped out. When the oil starts spurting air, you are done. Install both plugs. Fill the reservoir with oil. If the reservoir is under the battery, then fill it to six inches below the top of the neck. If the reservoir is at the front of the tractor under the hood, then fill to within one inch below the top of the actual reservoir tank. Start the tractor, drive the tractor, check the fluid level, check for leaks, top up as needed.
The manual calls for this to be done once each year. It's cheap insurance against premature pump and drive motor failures. Check with your local Wallyworld. They often have Shell Rotella T for low prices.
Posted June 15, 2010 - 01:00 PM
Posted June 15, 2010 - 01:12 PM
Posted June 15, 2010 - 01:56 PM