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#211 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 08:15 PM

Jtrojek,

 

Here is some serial # info as well.

 

Larry W.

 

 

Here is how to read some serial numbers to find out when your tractor was made.
The first two numbers are the last two numbers of the year that it was made.
The letter is for the model of the tractor (see list below).
The numbers after the letter are the consecutive unit number.
We will use this number as an example: 34Cxxx
The "34" means that it was made in 1934
The "C" means that it is a Standard Twin
The "xxx" is the consecutive unit number.
The first and third number are the last two numbers of the year that it was made.
The second number, the 0, has no meaning.
The letter is for the model of the tractor (see list below).
The last numbers are the consecutive unit number.
We will use this number as an example for the other way that the serial numbers were stamped: 309Cxxxx
The "3" and "9" mean that it was made in 1939
The "0" has no meaning
The "C" means the it is a Standard Twin
The "xxxx" is the consecutive unit number.
The letter in the serial number tells what model tractor you have.
The following is a list of the letters that we know of.
"C" = Standard Twin
"CF"= Viking Twin with Bread Box
"CG"= Viking Single Cylinder
"D"= Standard Walsh
"E"= Standard Monarch
"F"= Viking Twin
"K"= Kinkade (smaller)
"L" Kinkade (larger)
"TN" Standard Edgeton
If Your Serial Number Tag is Missing:
On the Standard, the Walsh, the Standard Monarch, The Standard Walsh, and the Kinkade the serial number is stamped on the flat machined surface around the oil fill plug. The serial number on the Standard Twin is stamped on a flat machined surface behind the carb, under where the cylinder bolts to the block. On real early tractors, there is a raised machine surface next to the oil cocks near the bottom of the engine block.


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#212 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 04:39 AM

Thanks for all the great info, and I think I will be using it as a lawn ornament, though I may also, just for fun, try to unstick the engine.  Thanks again!



#213 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 02:45 PM

Larry, most of that is good info but where did this statement come from? 

 

The Twin sported an impressive array of advertised features, especially considering they went on sale in 1931

 

34 was the first year for the twin.



#214 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 04:31 PM

Larry, most of that is good info but where did this statement come from? 

 

The Twin sported an impressive array of advertised features, especially considering they went on sale in 1931

 

34 was the first year for the twin.

Hey Doug :-)

 

Honestly, no Idea.  Thanks for correcting it though.  Almost every line of that is cut and pasted from different pages and was just stuff I saved for reference.

 

Larry W.



#215 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 04:33 PM

I'll correct my document so that isn't repeated.

 

Larry W.


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#216 salty OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2017 - 08:18 PM

She breathes!

 

 

Lots to do yet but it runs. I need to find close up photos of the throttle, both carb and control ends including return spring. Anyone? All the pyramids are missing so I'll need to get creative on that. Angle iron in the short term perhaps, I want to plow with it this year. Leaks oil out the front so I'm making a new gasket tonight. Fuel tank petcock leaks. It's the wrong tank but I have the correct one.

 

Cheers, Greg


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#217 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2017 - 08:51 PM

She breathes!

 

 

Lots to do yet but it runs. I need to find close up photos of the throttle, both carb and control ends including return spring. Anyone? All the pyramids are missing so I'll need to get creative on that. Angle iron in the short term perhaps, I want to plow with it this year. Leaks oil out the front so I'm making a new gasket tonight. Fuel tank petcock leaks. It's the wrong tank but I have the correct one.

 

Cheers, Greg

Yahoo!

 

No better feeling, no matter if it needs more work or not!

 

Larry W.



#218 salty OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2017 - 10:13 PM

Yahoo!

 

No better feeling, no matter if it needs more work or not!

 

Larry W.

Thanks Larry. You hit the nail on the head  <grin>



#219 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2017 - 09:37 AM

Salty, does your tractor have the governor? There is discussion on the throttle set up on those in posts 156-168. Also another pic in post 196. If you don't have the governor, I think the cable just hooks straight to the carb and you don't have a spring.


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#220 salty OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2017 - 10:13 AM

There's no governor on mine Doug. The universal cable I've got in place now doesn't have enough friction to stay put and vibrates itself to wide open throttle in a couple of seconds. I've been looking at all the photos in this thread but am not certain yet on the details of the cable mounting etc. Thanks.



#221 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2017 - 11:11 PM

Here are some pics of the throttle cable routing on a 34. I'm sure the others without the governor are similar.

Pic 1 is of the throttle lever. I think the tension on the handle is what is designed to hold it in place.

  DSC02816.JPG

 

#2 shows the cable clamp under the upper cross bar

    DSC02817.JPG

 

#3 shows the cable clamp at the lower cross bar.

   DSC02818.JPG

 

#4 shows the cable clamp on the final drive housing.

     DSC02819.JPG

 

#5 shows the cable clamp fastened to the rear valve cover bolt and the cable hooked directly to the carb with a barrel nut.

    DSC02820.JPG


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#222 salty OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2017 - 08:15 AM

Thanks Doug! That's exactly what I needed. I see I'm missing a few more bits...

 

Greg



#223 Bob White12 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2017 - 10:24 PM

        :wave:  hey im new here so forgive me if i make any mistakes. anyway I have a Standard Walsh garden tractor (1939 if i ran the numbers right) when i first got it it was locked up harder then i get out then. I almost gave up on her when then one day i went to budge the fly wheel and it moved i practically jumped into the air fearing that i might have broke the crank but the piston moved in the cylinder. at first i thought i was dreaming but i sure wasn't the piston was free!!! so i took the cylinder off and cleaned about a inch of gunk out. finally i was able to remove stuff like the flywheel and several covers. i tried to free everything up the best i could and clean everything up BUT!!! here is were the story turns so i looked at that exhaust valve and it was all pitted and horrible looking i didn't think much of it at first but i began to think about it and realize that this valve is probably toast. i dumped countless chemicals and lubricant on with no luck. so yeah i eventually lost hope and moved on to different thinks like my John Deere B (1948) witch by the way is going great. but lately i have begone to think about how handy the old girl would be but i don't know what to do like i said the valve is toast and I don't have any special equipment to fix it or money. this tractor has almost all the parts (accept the crank and fuel bowl) the shroud doesn't have any rust holes at all and the carburetor is sketchy but it will do. if you can give me any advise at all please note 

 

                                                                                                                                                                                              -sincerely Bob 


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#224 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2017 - 05:29 AM

Welcome to GTTalk Bob . Why don't you start a new thread on your tractor , you never know what parts the GTTalk members have in their stashes . Also I have my grandfather's Walsh , and believe it's also a 1939 , Al






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