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#181 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2015 - 02:59 PM

At $200.00, I would have them home already. Go get them. :thumbs:


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#182 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 07:41 PM

These ended up in my spam.

 

For $200 bucks I wouldn't even hesitate. I would get them even just for parts.  These things aren't exactly common  I have seen a grand total of 1 at the shows I have been to.

 

I paid 150 for a non-runner with a plow, just to get the steel wheels

 

I am still looking for the cylinder sheet metal for mine, so if anyone has a spare, I might be your guy.  I have the front shroud parts, I just need the cylinder head stuff.

 

GO GET THOSE TRACTORS!

 

Larry W.

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#183 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 09:26 PM

I want to get them but am sort of waiting till the snow melts off as the one engine was buried in the snow when I looked at them.  I want to make sure nothing is laying there under the snow that I need.  On top of that I was given some pretty grim numbers to do body work on the fenders and hood for my Case DC farm tractor.  So money is a little tight for hobby stuff to say the least at the moment.



#184 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2015 - 08:12 PM

I want to get them but am sort of waiting till the snow melts off as the one engine was buried in the snow when I looked at them.  I want to make sure nothing is laying there under the snow that I need.  On top of that I was given some pretty grim numbers to do body work on the fenders and hood for my Case DC farm tractor.  So money is a little tight for hobby stuff to say the least at the moment.

if you don't get them let me know where they are and i'll bring them home
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#185 RAWPWR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 12:16 PM

I have a 38 Viking and would like to get these for parts and stuff..package deal??


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#186 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 02:49 PM

I am pretty sure that I am going to go ahead and get them in the next week or so.  My word I am surprised at all the interest in them.  I never would have guessed that they were so sought after.


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#187 RAWPWR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 05:03 PM

save me the air filter can :thumbs:



#188 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 06:02 PM

Oh yeh,  That's something else on the holy grail list of parts I need to find.  LOL

 

Larry W.


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#189 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 07:47 PM

Here are the components of the engine house for a Viking Twin. I've seen one with a belly pan under the engine but not sure if it was original or not. This is a 35-36 style. On a 38, the hood has bolt holes instead of the lip to hang the side panels on. This is the grille, hood, 2 side panels and the rear support/mount. First off the rear mounting that surrounds the front of the gas tank.

 

DSC02195-640.jpg   DSC02196-640.jpg

 

This is the grille.  

 

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These are the left and right side shields. They are different.

 

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This is the hood, Notice the lip that the side panels hang. The side panels have the opposite lip on the inside top.

 

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#190 RAWPWR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 09:16 AM

my 38 is has a different front cover, see pic please

 

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#191 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 10:03 AM

my 38 is has a different front cover, see pic please

That is the front air shroud. It is the same for the twin or the viking. The grille sits in front of that. The lipped circle of the shroud fits through the hole in the grille. the main difference between a Standard Twin and Viking was the engine house, the direction the gas tank mounted, and the wheels. I thought you were getting confused between the hood and the upper air shroud when I saw your pictures. That's why i posted those pictures to try and show the difference. The upper air shroud that goes around the cylinders is this piece. It looks like I was too busy trying to get measurements that I didn't get any good overall shots. I'll try to take more. Everybody seems to be missing this piece. This one is rotted out in the bottom but it is just a flat piece with a cutout to go around the cylinders. I think you could make a pattern for this out of cardboard and fit it to the engine, then use the pattern to do the tin. The hardest thing would be to curve the lip but I think I'd try to do that in 2 pieces with a strip of 1/2 X 1/2 90* strip hooked inside the flat piece.

 

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#192 RAWPWR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 10:59 AM

 

 

Doug,

ok. I actually think there was something like that, that was loose when I got the Viking. it's rotted but I might that part. i'll have to look at it and take some picture also. thanks  again

george



#193 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 02:58 PM

"Everybody seems to be missing this piece."

 

Hey Doug, how's it going?

 

I wish somebody that has a good one, and the tools to do it, would start re-popping those elusive puppys.  Same goes for the elusive air cleaner.  Or at least a template or measured drawing to work from.

 

P.S.  Was it you doing the plow database thing.  I'll be heading back to Ohio the first part of April and bringing the plow back that is pictured in my post above.  Let me know if you need anything else about it, as I'll have access to it now.

 

Larry W.

 



#194 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 03:02 PM

Off topic, but I used Mainely Magnetos to rebuild my 37 JD FM mag and they did very good work on it.  That's been a long while ago though and was wondering if they are still OK or if someone knows of a better place to send the WICO A from my ST?  Or maybe a good place, closer to Fl?



#195 morepower302 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2015 - 10:33 PM

OK, I forgot I traded scrap for scrap last summer and ended up with a twin that has the gov. I see what is happening now.The lever pushes the gov arm toward idle. It is preventing the spring from being able to pull the throttle wide open. If you are going along at half throttle and the engine starts to bogg, there is no way for the throttle to open without the operator moving the throttle. Anyway, maybe these pics will help tell the story. The first pic shows the lever that the cable hooks to like Larry said. In this pic the gov arm will move to the left to go to idle. When the cable pulls back on the bottom of the lever, the top of the lever pushes the arm to the left.The housing of the cable is held by a bracket on the trans cover in the second pic. The 3rd pic is an overall view. You have to look close to see the cable behind the bolt for the spring. If you look at the gov arm, there is a cotter pin through the arm from the bottom up. I would figure that's where the spring hooks.

 

 

attachicon.gifDSC01704.JPG.             attachicon.gifDSC01705.JPG

 

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First, I like the thread you guys have going here!  Looks like I have some catching up to do to really read through it all.

 

Re: The discussion about the Standard Twin engine governor system.  DougT, you have the theory of operation nailed down.  To add to this, below is a picture of the governor system on my 1940 Standard Twin, which includes the spring.  Please excuse the dirt, I haven't have an opportunity to wash it down after the few shows I took it to last season.  I have also included a picture of the throttle lever, which I am not sure is same on the earlier models or not, just with no governor?  Basically, if you pull the throttle lever up it pivots the lever at the governor arm forward/to the left, pushing the governor arm forward for low-idle.  Pushing the throttle lever down allows the spring tension to take over the governor arm and results in high-idle.

 

IMAG1954.jpg

 

IMAG1959.jpg


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