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#151 DB1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2013 - 03:22 PM

Hi Doug, The number is 3804404. Now, the number 8 is badly pitted and looks like the number 3. We quickly ruled out that the number 8 was a number 3. The number 3 had a flat top instead of a curve. If you never told us about the number being there, we would have never found it. The thick paint covered. I suppose it is a 1938 Standard. Your right the wheels are different than our Viking Twin. Boy, now we need a Walsh. Does it ever stop? I hope not. We enjoy the hunt. Thanks, Candy

#152 Standardtwin1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2013 - 09:38 PM

I also have Standard Twins, hence the handle :D

 

This is a 1938 Standard Twin Convertible. This is the version that used the heavy duty sulky with center and rear lifts for implements on it. I pulled the pan on it when I first got it, cleaned and checked the rod bearings as well as the oil pump and windage pan. I also took apart the axle cases, and cleaned and replaced the cork oil seals with graphite packing. I removed the lugs for parade duty. The 50lb weights are factory.  I have the original rubber tire rims, but at over $300 for new tires, it's steel for me.  It's a great runner, has the early tillotson M-15A carb and Wico model A mag. Later ones had the Zenith 9711A and Fairbanks mag.

 

I have a 37 and 38 still waiting for their turn......and another convertible soon to be mine (later than 40, has the governor on it)

 

Video : https://www.youtube....h?v=gF9y6-xe7ZU

 

102_3007.jpg 102_3006.jpg 102_3008.jpg 102_3010.jpg


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#153 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2013 - 03:04 PM

That's a nice unit Standardtwin1.  If I remember right, mine is a 1942.  Still looking for the cylinder head tin that goes over the top of the heads.  I have to get my mag redone.  I have had it started once and then never again.  Something in the impulse I think.  It has the Wico A type.  Right now it is up on blocks in a shed.  I have a saved search on ebay, but parts for these NEVER come up.

 

Larry W.


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#154 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2013 - 03:06 PM

I have watched that video several times before you posted it here.

Larry W.


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#155 Standardtwin1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2013 - 01:04 PM

The next project on the list is this 1940 Standard Twin Convertible to go along with the 1938 in the previous post.

 

Looks a little rough, but not rusted out or through. It was going to the scrap pile.  Engine is not stuck, and I repaired the magneto and its hot and ready. I am always amazed with cleaning of the points and rotor, how in most cases they will still work fine, even with years of outdoor exposure. The impulse was fine, although I have found others that needed a total teardown to free them up. I expect to pull the oil pan and heads, as I'm sure the valves need attention, and my experience is that the oil pan and windage tray are usually full of sludge. My 1937 oil windage tray had a 5/8" thick sludge on it that I had to get off with a scraper....

 

One drive tire is intact, but was full of ice water that I had to milk out by taking valve stem out, pressurizing, then let it escape, and then finally had to use a straw to get to the bottom of it. The other drive tire is split through the sidewall, but I know where I've seen one and may be able to get it. One sulky tire is shot, but the other was intact and holds air. They are wheelbarrow size, and easy to replace. The rims look intact, not rusted through like my other convertible ones were. In that case, I could not save them, and had to resort to wheelbarrow ones.

 

It has a few cultivator shovels, and one end sweep with it. It has the rear tool bar lift like my other one. It came with an extra trailer frame to hold the tools, or trailer wheels if it was to be used without the sulky. I'm short on tools, need shovels and sweeps. I have discs and plows for the other twins I have.

 

It has the governor on it, which I think came out in 1940. My 37 and 38's didn't have it. Anyone have a picture of the link from the gov to the carb?. I'm not sure how that was done.

 

Interesting to get it running again.

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  • 2013-04-02 08.08.33.jpg

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#156 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2013 - 08:15 PM

I'm sure its not standard, but mine just as a spring hooked to a rod or wire something.  The carb is off right now.  I was rebuilding it and i was coating the cork float with Seal All.  I had it coated once and then I coated it again and hung it across a paper cup to dry.  Well.....after that, I can only guess that it got thrown out by accident because I haven't seen it it months.  You can't exactly go down to NAPA and get one of these things.  Anybody got an extra?

 

Larry W.



#157 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2013 - 08:38 PM

Standardtwin1,

 

I looked through my pictures and I don't have any closeups.  I know I have the rod and the carb parts in the garage.  When I get out there, Ill take a pic of how mine was.  If I remember right, the rod appeared stock.

 

Larry W.



#158 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2013 - 09:01 PM

Standardtwin1,

 

I looked through my collection of pics that I pulled off the internet and found these.  If you download them and zoom in, they may help.  I am pretty sure my rod is stock, so I will get a pic.  $T2eC16dHJH8E9qSEW9VmBP8znR1(Pw~~60_57.JPG $T2eC16VHJG8E9nyfnfs(BRvmu154,g~~60_57.jpg $T2eC16ZHJGkE9no8iLsDBQM(F(3Y1!~~60_57.jpg 1945 with flojet_1215660_57.jpg

 

Larry W.

 

I still can't figure out where the throttle cable or control goes in these pics.  Mine doesn't have one at all.


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#159 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2013 - 09:02 PM

That last pic has the wrong carb.

 

Larry W.



#160 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2013 - 09:25 PM

That last pic has the wrong carb.

 

Larry W.

That one looks the closest to the way I would think it would hook up. The cable would have to work on that spring and make it stiffer for faster rpm. The ones with the cable hooked to the same lever that goes to the carb is basically over riding the gov.



#161 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2013 - 10:41 AM

That one looks the closest to the way I would think it would hook up. The cable would have to work on that spring and make it stiffer for faster rpm. The ones with the cable hooked to the same lever that goes to the carb is basically over riding the gov.

 

I agree, though I can't quite figure out how that was connected.  Mine doesn't even have the bracket where the spring hooks to the threaded rod. Being a four wheel conversion, mine is highly modified.  Mine just has a spring hooked over the governor arm that has notches to set the spring at different tensions.  The spring runs from there toward the rear and hooks to a fabricated (not stock) gas tank bracket.  The closer you attach the spring to the outer end of the arm, the faster the engine will run. So your statement: "The cable would have to work on that spring and make it stiffer for faster rpm.", would be correct as I remember it on mine.

 

Larry W.



#162 Standardtwin1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2013 - 07:17 PM

Shot a quick one in the dark of mine.

 

It looks like the solid link goes from the end of the gov rod at the spring to the carb. I should have realized that, but someone robbed this carb off of it. I have another zenith 9711A for it.

 

The first two pictures appear correct, where the last two are modified. The spring is holding tension on the gov arm to either increase or decrease the sensitivity of it. The throttle cable is independent of the tension, rather it is controlling travel of the gov arm, which is then controlling opening of butterfly with a solid link from gov arm to butterfly. If the cable was used for overall spring tension, it would work, but would be using spring tension for throttle at a given pull, and not quite using the gov as designed. The last one is over riding the gov as said above.

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Edited by Standardtwin1, December 02, 2013 - 07:33 PM.


#163 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2013 - 08:15 PM

Shot a quick one in the dark of mine.

 

. The spring is holding tension on the gov arm to either increase or decrease the sensitivity of it. The throttle cable is independent of the tension, rather it is controlling travel of the gov arm, which is then controlling opening of butterfly with a solid link from gov arm to butterfly. If the cable was used for overall spring tension, it would work, but would be using spring tension for throttle at a given pull, and not quite using the gov as designed. The last one is over riding the gov as said above.

I'm not sure I'm following this. Is your cable hooked direct and tight to the same lever that has the rod going to the carb or is there another lever coming through the case under there? If we throw the cable out, when the engine is off the spring should have the throttle at the wide open stop and the lever should be resting against the gov. When you start the engine and it comes up to speed, the gov should try to push the throttle closed. The force of the flyweights working against the spring controls speed. If the rpm drops, the spring overcomes the gov and opens the throttle to bring it back to speed. Now, if we hook the cable to the same lever as the rod going to the carb, what allows the gov to work? This is what is happening in pic 3. The first 2 look like your set up but I can't see where the cable is attaching to. The 4th pic looks like the cable is hooked to the spring and could make the spring stronger, thus increasing or decreasing the speed and still allowing the gov to work. I know I've got part of a block with the gov but don't know if I've got  enough to tell. The only thing I can think of that works a little backwards is the gov on the letter series Briggs. The cable pulls the throttle to idle and the gov is not capable of increasing the throttle unless the cable is set to WOT. In that case, the cable goes through the arm with a cable nut on the end. It isn't fixed to the shaft. For that to happen here, it looks like the cable would have to pull from the front.



#164 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 04:31 PM

DougT

 

I was missing the same thing. We haven't seen a clear pic yet, even the ones I posted.  The key is....there is a throttle rod or cable, not sure which, coming from the operator position.  The ONLY thing it connects directly to is a pivot lever of sorts.  That pivot has an arm that sticks up and contacts the governor arm near to the elbow in the arm.  It is in some of the pics, but hard to see.  It looks to be held on by a stud with a nut on it.  I am a visual learner, so unless I had one running, I couldn't tell you whether it limits the governor (slows down) or overcomes the governor (speeds up).  Look for the tab that is sticking up and touching the rear of the  governor arm near the elbow where it turns down.  If you see that, I bet YOU will figure it out.  Mine doesn't have ANY of those parts.

 

Larry W.



#165 mrf1002u OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 04:49 PM

DougT,

 

To clarify; the spring and adjustment rod are attached to the governor arm. The solid carb rod is also attached to the governor arm and to the carb. The throttle rod/cable attaches ONLY to the pivot with the tab that touches the governor arm.

 

 

I would also note that since the carb rod is solid, it was probably made to push AND pull. The adjustable spring would be pulling the gov arm back; the tab that touches the gov arm would be pushing forward.

 

Larry W.






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