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Transmission Help Bush Hog


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#16 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2013 - 06:48 PM

Titus my memory was the same on the D4-10 caste iron axle housings.....I beat up the bearings and rims trying to get them to budge....it took a while to get them out.....that is why my other d4-10 is leaking.....just not ready to tackle that again right now.



#17 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2013 - 06:48 PM

Scott, That ring gear is trash, I wonder if BH used a ring gear that is in any other makes of trans axles?



#18 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2013 - 06:49 PM

I don't know why I didn't think of that! And I have a NAPA account, so that's even better! Thanks!



#19 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2013 - 06:53 PM

Scott, That ring gear is trash, I wonder if BH used a ring gear that is in any other makes of trans axles?

Yea...that was not the ring gear I was keeping.....so far from all my studying and tearing apart....the ring gears are the same on all the BH transaxles- (gear driven transaxles)- T63, D4-7,D4-10, etc.

 

That is why I sent the company a request.....maybe we can cross reference with something else that used it as well. I will let you know what the company says. The company and part number are Arrow Corporation (still in business in Ohio) Part # C-S1048  ring gear.


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#20 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2013 - 06:55 PM

These pinion shaft and ring gears were actually sold as a set....not the first ones, but later in the parts diagram it specifically says they are matched pairs...

 

Looking at the diagram the bush hog number for the ring gear is S1048  and the bush hog number for the pinion shaft was S1068



#21 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2013 - 06:58 PM

Most Co's. who make ring and pinion gears sell them as a matched set. They set them up and match them for run out to make them last longer.


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#22 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2013 - 07:57 PM

Scott, I am sorry that I never seen this thread when you started it back in March.  I don't know how in the world I missed it!  Those cluster gears are my main reason I don't really want to work my Bush Hogs.  Mowing & such isn't the issue, but plowing or other heavy pulls to me just isn't worth the risk, being good used parts are so hard to come by.  Maybe Arrow can help out with the ring gears.


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#23 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2013 - 09:19 AM

I was talking to a guy who is one of the original Bush Hog factory guys, he said that one way to prevent damaging the gears use the low gear rather than the high gear....also do not pop the clutch with the motor revved up or when you are on a hill. From everyone I have talked to....the transaxle is the weak link......you can mow with it and never have an issue.....but you start plowing, pulling, etc and just need to be careful.

 

I may end up trying to put a cub cadet or another rearend to use on of my D4-10 as a pulling tractor.....the tractor,clutch, drive shaft, and motor can handle the work.

 

Anyone have a suggestion on what substitute I should use?? I know Cubs have been put in but which one?? Also what other transaxles use a drive shaft??? What about the older GT that used a cut down car rear end???? Looking for some ideas.......


Edited by sacsr, October 30, 2014 - 06:01 PM.


#24 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2013 - 10:34 AM

Power kings used a driveshaft... but that would be a huge job to put one of those in! I would go with a cub rear personally.
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#25 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2013 - 10:40 AM

Scott, If your going to swap out the rear-end, I would go with the cub rear-end. I'm not sure how much work it would take, but you would never tear it up again.


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#26 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2013 - 01:19 PM

Scott, If your going to swap out the rear-end, I would go with the cub rear-end. I'm not sure how much work it would take, but you would never tear it up again.

I don't think it would be that difficult.  The BH driveshaft is pinned just like the CC input shaft.  The brakes are disc on many models, such as the 106, so those linkages may be tricky to get right.


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#27 Sparky OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2013 - 06:43 PM

Do these gear problems apply to all BH  tractors or just the non hydro units ?   I am waiting for climate change for an opportunity to extract what we think is a JB1 or II   from a ramshackle building .  Red is a good color .

 

                                                           Just wondering to look for  . 


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#28 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2013 - 06:44 PM

Do these gear problems apply to all BH  tractors or just the non hydro units ?   I am waiting for climate change for an opportunity to extract what we think is a JB1 or II   from a ramshackle building .  Red is a good color .

 

                                                           Just wondering to look for  . 

 

Just the "D" & "T" models.  The transaxles in the V's are Peerless 2300's like in many GT's.  And the hydro's had no big issues.


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#29 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2013 - 06:52 PM

  I am waiting for climate change for an opportunity to extract what we think is a JB1 or II   from a ramshackle building .  Red is a good color .

 

RED is a GREAT color indeed!  Looking forward to you getting it rescued!



#30 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 08:57 AM

I was tearing down a D4-10 transaxle today and thought I would post a picture of the difference between the rear PTO fork and lever versus the Hi-Lo shifter and fork. Almost all the hi-lo shifters are bent to some degree- (not supposed to be but through handling etc have gotten bent) the more compact fork is the rear pto forkImageUploadedByTapatalk1405259805.708829.jpg
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