Did A Little Tilling This Afternoon. Have One Issue.
Posted March 16, 2012 - 03:46 PM
Couldnt ask for a better spring here in Southern MN. Mid 70's I think and sunny. A few weeks ago I re-finished the 54" mowing deck and installed the new blades and a week ago I got a front weight bracket fab'ed up for myself and put one JD 42lb suitcase weight on for now. I'll try and get some pictures tonite.
I did about 40 minutes of tilling today just to try things out, and what I've noticed after about 20-30 minutes of tilling time when I got to the end of my row and hit the Hydraulic lever to lift the tiller up it would come up very Slow, On my last past or so I would reach my arm back and grab the top "post" on the 3 point to help it up. With my assistance it would come up just fine like it was suppose to.
So without knowing a ton about garden tractors and just observing the machine I thought this might be the case of the "Hydraulic lift cylinder " going bad? The part I am talking about would be Under the seat, Lift out the black plastic tray, and it would be clearly visable on the left side of the tractor as if you were sitting in the seat facing foward.
If this is the problem are these commonly avaible, If so where and what could I expect to pay for one?
Also now so I need to use the tiller again before this gets fixed, For the first 15-20 minutes do you think the lift will work normal again untill it gets hot or worn again or is this just a progressing downward lack of lift power from here on out ?
Posted March 16, 2012 - 03:51 PM
Posted March 16, 2012 - 04:11 PM
The tiller is the Snapper Model 48" Shaft driven tiller. One other thing I forgot to mention in my above post was right above this cylinder there are a few metal hydraulic lines I'd assume and at one fitting there is some leaking. it's leaking straight down under the fender past the trans. filter. For these hydraulic lines where is there a so called resivor ? Mabey the lines leaked out enough to loose power to the rear lift? and the lift itself is not bad ?
Posted March 16, 2012 - 04:58 PM
I just went back out and started it back up ( sat for a hour and half) and the rear lift worked like brand new again. So when it get's too hot is when it get's so sluggish. Also re-looked at thoes lines right above the rear hyd. lift and they both go throu the frame and into the trans filter.
Then followed the one line the other way and it led right into the hyd. lever area, and then took a white cloth and wiped a little leaking fluid, so now I answered some questions. The lift levers/ cylinders run off the same trans fluid as the transmission/ and also obiously I know where to check / add trans fluid. So that answers that. and the trans dip stick shows the trans fluid is full.
So hopefully I can just tighten thoes nuts along the inside frame rail a little and stop the seepage. So that just leaves 1 question, Why does the line from the trans filter to the hyd. lever area get so warm and then make the 3 point lift function so poorly?
Posted March 16, 2012 - 05:05 PM
Posted March 16, 2012 - 05:06 PM
Edited by Amigatec, March 16, 2012 - 05:06 PM.
Posted March 16, 2012 - 07:34 PM
Posted March 16, 2012 - 07:37 PM
Posted March 16, 2012 - 08:36 PM
So that leads me to belive that that little trans. seepage has nothing to do with the weak rear hyd. lift as I orgionally thought. Also this evening the lift did go slower after a while but nothing like it was this afternoon.
relating to the cylinder by-passing when I lifted the tiller up to move around the tiller held the hight that I raised it to and I hadnt noticed it loosing pressure and getting lower to the ground.
Posted March 16, 2012 - 08:56 PM
Posted March 16, 2012 - 09:25 PM
Posted March 17, 2012 - 12:30 AM
Posted March 17, 2012 - 01:06 AM
Posted March 17, 2012 - 04:34 AM
Posted March 17, 2012 - 02:27 PM
I currently have a similar problem with mine, even after rebuilding the cylinder. My suspicions run to the valve body as the culprit for my problem. I use the 3PH extensively with a backblade for snow removal and there is bound to be some wear in the aluminum valve body in 2500 hours of such use.
Address the leaks. A little judicious snugging up should fix them. If it's due for an oil change, possibly a heavier oil will help. I use Dexron in mine with the only issues being those mentioned above, even with extensive hard work in 80*+ temps. Definitely change the filter, even if it was recently changed, Take the filter apart and inspect for debris. If it's clear, you've eliminated the most expensive problem source and can move on to the time consuming seals and o-rings in the rest of the system.
The filter and valve are the most likely places for answers for the mechanical side and the filter and fan for the heat generation. Get an IR temperature gun and check the hydro the next time the problem happens. Normal is 140-160*, high, but acceptable, is 170-190*, over 200, add an oil cooler to the valve return line, and take a hard look for why the temp is getting up there. It shouldn't, except under extreme circumstances. Tilling a garden in 70* weather is not extreme.
I very much doubt that either a small drip at the suction line or the hydro itself is at fault.
- bgkid2966 said thank you