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Picked Up A 1050


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#1 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2012 - 07:34 AM

So I finally picked up the 1050 from a guy from my local machine shop. No starter generator, has mower deck and he supposed to have a fogger attachment but cannot find the canister. 100 bucks

Got it home cleaned up checked for spark, OK. Put gas in it and a squirt in the carb, after a few pulls it fired up and ran rough. Shut it off and restarted a couple of times. Played with the carb a bit and it ran great.

So I shut it off the to tighten up the main jet, went to start it again and NO SPARK. Played with it a bit but it was late so i'll try again tonight. All I can think of is that I got gas on the points when I took out the jet screw. Is the condensor supposed to be hot with the key on?

#2 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2012 - 07:39 AM

No, it is not supposed to be hot with the key on, it could be a bad ground or short.

#3 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2012 - 08:47 AM

I'd clean up the points and as trowel suggested, I would go through all the wires and connections and clean up any of the ground wires.

#4 gbrown OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2012 - 07:35 PM

If you find that you need any parts, let me know. I've got two 1050's that I'm parting out.

#5 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2012 - 07:38 PM

So I got home tonight, gave it a try for grins. It started right up ran for 20 seconds died, NO SPARK. I have run through the tests I found from another member. I got to the part were he says if that doesn't work you missed something.

I guess I'll start over.

Just thinking out loud. If it starts after resting all day, maybe heat, but 20 seconds isn't much heat.
maybe vibration, but testing eveything while wiggling the wires doen't change the results.
Internal consensor or coil?

I am going through the grounds again but any other ideas would be helpful.

If I am pull starting does the regulator come into play?

#6 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2012 - 11:53 PM

So I got home tonight, gave it a try for grins. It started right up ran for 20 seconds died, NO SPARK. I have run through the tests I found from another member. I got to the part were he says if that doesn't work you missed something.

I guess I'll start over.

Just thinking out loud. If it starts after resting all day, maybe heat, but 20 seconds isn't much heat.
maybe vibration, but testing eveything while wiggling the wires doen't change the results.
Internal consensor or coil?

I am going through the grounds again but any other ideas would be helpful.

If I am pull starting does the regulator come into play?


Remove the cover over the points, and check for oil in that chamber. ....There shouldn't be any.

I have seen a few Wisconsin engines that would let oil get onto the point surfaces. .....Sometimes they would start after sitting, but stop after running a little while. ...Would restart after the oil had the time to drain off the contact surfaces.

Also check the copper strip for cracks/breaks, and be sure it is not grounding out on the inside of the point cover.

Check the wire connected to the terminal at the bottom of the point box. .....Follow it back to check for breaks or shorts.

The disconnected wires going to the (missing) starter should be wrapped with electrical tape to insulate and isolate the bare terminals to prevent them from grounding out. ....Otherwise, your regulator will have no effect on the engine running.
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#7 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2012 - 04:42 AM

Have you got any pics,I'd love to see it.

#8 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2012 - 07:44 AM

I replaced the wire from the neg side of the coil to the points but still no spark. I am trying to find what might be grounded. Should ther be continuity from the block to the condensor wire where it connects to the points. I have continuity with points open or closed.

#9 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2012 - 05:21 PM

Is your engine run by a Coil or a Magneto?

#10 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2012 - 06:55 PM

make sure the points are nice and clean i had the same problem with the cub cadet 125 i just bought a couple weeks ago it would run then die it was the points

#11 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2012 - 08:16 AM

Should there be continuity from the block to the condensor wire where it connects to the points. I have continuity with points open or closed.


Disconnect the wire from the coil to the terminal under the points box.

Connect one side of your continuity tester to the terminal under the points box, and the other side of the tester to ground.

With the points open there should be no continuity (to ground).

If you are getting continuity to ground, remove the condenser lead from the points and repeat the continuity test. ....If there is no continuity then the condenser is probably shorted and needs to be replaced.

If you still have continuity to ground after removing the condenser from the circuit, you need to check the copper strap and the plastic insulators where the terminal screw passes through the cast-iron. .....It is extremely rare, but the points may be bad and grounding out.

These Wisconsin engines are very sensitive to ignition timing. ....The correct setting of the points is achieved by using a continuity tester. .....There should be no continuity (open circuit) exactly as the timing mark on the flywheel lines up with the timing pointer on the shroud. ....Turn the engine backwards a bit, and then rotate in the normal direction to re-check (and reset the points if necessary) the timing.
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#12 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2012 - 10:40 PM

Thank you all for the help. Finally tracked it down to the condensor. Got new points and condensor from NAPA and it is running like a top.

Funny thing, I got on it to check the tranny and make sure everything was working. Put it in gear and nothing, checked the clutch and all looks really good, it engages with no apparent slipping, Had to wrap up for the day and while driving to the sis-in=laws house it hits me :spanka: I still haven't pushed the free wheeling pin back in. Oh well, I'll play with that tomorrow.

Thanks again for your help and patience, I'll geet some pics up tomorrow

#13 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2012 - 04:47 AM

... I still haven't pushed the free wheeling pin back in. ...


You have to do that, or it won't move under power.

Pin IN = Can rive but not push.

Pin OUT = Can push but not drive.

Edited by OldBuzzard, March 18, 2012 - 04:48 AM.


#14 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2012 - 08:25 PM

at home 001.jpg I borrowed the battery out of the 1256 so I could take the 1050 out of the garage for a little ride. This thing will jerk you right out of the seat if your not ready. I tryed out all 6 forward gears and 2 reverse, all works great.

It was dark but I even engaged the mower deck and took it for a lap around the front yard, I'll see what that looks like in the morning. I have a slope up close to the house where the G10 and the 1256 spin the tires, the 1050 with the ags didn't break loose at all even after it rained all day.
Here are some pics sorry for the quality, I really do need a real camera.
at home 002.jpg
The seat is in good shape it just took a little red duct tape to seal it up
at home 003.jpg
Could use decals for the gfear shift
at home 004.jpg
The ags are great
at home 005.jpg
The 1256 battery donor
at home 006.jpg

#15 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2012 - 08:10 AM

Thanks for the pictures. That 1050 looks to be in good condition.




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