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55 Gal Electrolysis Tank


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#31 jessylee OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2012 - 08:35 AM

sweet set up u got going on there

#32 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2012 - 11:31 AM

I used my drum last week on a few smaller pieces from the 317 and even though it was cold it still seemed to work fine. I usually leave them in for 24hrs, trying to turn the parts and clean them and the anodes at least once during that time.

#33 Guest_Franz©_*

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Posted January 04, 2013 - 03:52 AM

Sure seem to be some problems you guys are having with this process of electroplating rust off toys.

 

My 55 runs around the clock with no electrode cleaning using either Sodium Bicarbonate or Sodium carbonate.

 

I don't have the brown crud layer any more either.   

 

No real need to worry about freezing down to 10° if the process is running, and dropping a nickle electrode in to replace the + electrode will keep the tank from freezing by letting it pretend to be an Edison Battery.

 

The meter in the pics was a difficult job, the casting was originally copper plated, and a lot of the copper had eroded in 80 years of engineroom life, so it took about 36 hours in the tank to come completely clean.

 

Came out rust free, got phosphated & then coated and still looks fine.

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#34 alsparl OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 09:41 PM

This is a great thread full of information.   Thanks!



#35 Fabman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 10:30 PM

I'v got a 55gal poly tank i wraped 3/4 re-bar around the top and welded 3/16 x 4" flat bar (6) to it. Have had great results in my endevors.


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#36 MFGray OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2013 - 03:11 PM

Some pieces come out of the tank with a coating of black iron (converted rust) in places, that can be quite difficult to remove. It may not be necessary to remove it all, but I have found that if you want to get rid of it, it seems to come off much easier when the pieces are scrubbed with a wire brush in very hot water. Cold water doesn't have the same effect and perhaps the expansion of the steel releases the iron that is stuck on somehow. Has anyone else noticed this?


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#37 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2013 - 03:35 PM

Some pieces come out of the tank with a coating of black iron (converted rust) in places, that can be quite difficult to remove. It may not be necessary to remove it all, but I have found that if you want to get rid of it, it seems to come off much easier when the pieces are scrubbed with a wire brush in very hot water. Cold water doesn't have the same effect and perhaps the expansion of the steel releases the iron that is stuck on somehow. Has anyone else noticed this?

 

Yes, I have the same thing and just hit those areas with a wire brush under hot water then dry it and prime it.


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#38 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:55 AM

Did you use a 55 gallon drum? if so did you add metal or just clip the charger to the drum?

 You have to use a Plastic drum not steel. A steel tank will last maybe 1 batch. The alkaline/acid balance at the connectors will put

pin holes all over a metal drum.



#39 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 07:00 AM

Some pieces come out of the tank with a coating of black iron (converted rust) in places, that can be quite difficult to remove. It may not be necessary to remove it all, but I have found that if you want to get rid of it, it seems to come off much easier when the pieces are scrubbed with a wire brush in very hot water. Cold water doesn't have the same effect and perhaps the expansion of the steel releases the iron that is stuck on somehow. Has anyone else noticed this?

If you've ever use a commercial paste, like Naval Jelly or others, they can turn the base black. Can't remember now whether that's the Iron NiteRATE or Iron NitRITE part, but it means its working. As Brian says you can remove it if its rough, but I think its good to use if the new surface is smooth and usable.



#40 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 06:36 PM

We have old golf car chargers at work just sitting around. The powerwise brand, we fuse the controller board together so it turns on once plugged in and cranks out 20+ amps at 36 volts. I use those on my tanks and they clean in no time. :)


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#41 Toolpartzman ONLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 08:19 PM

We have old golf car chargers at work just sitting around. The powerwise brand, we fuse the controller board together so it turns on once plugged in and cranks out 20+ amps at 36 volts. I use those on my tanks and they clean in no time. :)

I too use a G cart charger. Be carefull with thin materials and working time. The extra voltage over 6 amps/12 volts will generate

some serious heat, especially thin parts and if left too long, you may not have a part left to paint.



#42 MFGray OFFLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2013 - 12:19 AM

I needed to get the rust off a plow blade and my tank was too small so I made this custom setup from 40 bricks and a bin liner split down the sides and opened out.

 

P1020261.JPG P1020265.JPG

 

The anode is a cast iron burner from a barbeque and the power source is a 18v dc power pack from an old laptop. There is an ad for evaporust that puts the cost of electrolysis at ">$60,000". This is a little cheaper than that.

 

When the blade is done, will reshape the tank to accomodate the push rod. To avoid pinholes in the bin liner I think I might line the whole thing with a few layers of newspaper first, although that will probably double the cost of the setup.

 

 


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