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Cant Make Up My Mind


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#1 Salatino OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2012 - 04:47 PM

Ok i cant decide on if I want to paint or try to put some kinda clear on the bolts. I'm far from putting this thing back together but I've spent lots of time cleanin and swappin out bolts from 1 cub to another . If the bolts wasnt stamped then I wouldnt have gone through the trouble. For some reason I cant stand when I see people paint over wires,cables & carbs. drives me crazy. lol I know you cant keep a bolt from gettin scratched & chipped soon as you put a wrench on it. so I'm thinkin about leavin them umpainted. What can I put on them besides clear? Is there anything else out there? Ive been messin around with the nail polish but I'm not sure if I like it and hows its gonna hold up.


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#2 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2012 - 06:54 PM

Paint them Flat Black.

#3 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2012 - 06:56 PM

That's a very personal question LOL! It seems there are as many opinions on what to do with the fasteners as there are people who collect and restore old tractors! Personally I like to paint the the same color as the surrounding materials, but others use all new stainless hardware. Some feel that the original is better. When I paint mine, I usually go without primer (on the bolts that is) and then use gentle heat to get a good hard cure. I also let the set for as long as possible..up to a couple of weeks...to be sure that the paint is as dry as it's gonna get. Another trick that I've used to keep from scratching all the hard work off is finding a wrench, be it standard or metric that will fit tightly over the head with a piece of shop towel or rag over it. I know others who just do all of their tightening and then spritz the parts with some fresh paint when they're through. I don't think that nail polish would hold up any better or worse than a quality paint.

#4 Salatino OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2012 - 08:43 PM

That's a very personal question LOL! It seems there are as many opinions on what to do with the fasteners as there are people who collect and restore old tractors! Personally I like to paint the the same color as the surrounding materials, but others use all new stainless hardware. Some feel that the original is better. When I paint mine, I usually go without primer (on the bolts that is) and then use gentle heat to get a good hard cure. I also let the set for as long as possible..up to a couple of weeks...to be sure that the paint is as dry as it's gonna get. Another trick that I've used to keep from scratching all the hard work off is finding a wrench, be it standard or metric that will fit tightly over the head with a piece of shop towel or rag over it. I know others who just do all of their tightening and then spritz the parts with some fresh paint when they're through. I don't think that nail polish would hold up any better or worse than a quality paint.






I agree about sprayin them after everything is assembled. I thought about puttin all new stainless on it but them theres a few places where stainless wouldnt be a good idea and then theres gonna be some mix matched hardware. i dont know, you said you dont use primer on them, is there a certain reason if you dont mind me askin?

#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2012 - 10:19 PM

I agree with Caseguy on the no primer. It tends to be softer than just paint and you're more apt to mark it up. Especially with rattle-cans. On the other hand, sometimes the primer can slightly affect the final color of the paint. Never bothered me any, I'm just happy to get stuff painted.

I might suggest you do a couple test bolts (with and without.) and see if there is a color difference or a difference in durability.

#6 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2012 - 10:32 PM

...you said you dont use primer on them, is there a certain reason if you dont mind me askin?


Like MH81 said, they tend to be softer, longer. The primer / paint combination takes a lot longer to cure as a whole than paint alone and they will scratch easier. A full cure is the best insurance against marring the finish.

#7 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2012 - 05:19 AM

If you want to paint them,why not use epoxy paint.It is very tough,and would resist scratching from wrenches,at least to so extent.

I like the stainless idea myself.
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#8 Salatino OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2012 - 09:32 PM

If you want to paint them,why not use epoxy paint.It is very tough,and would resist scratching from wrenches,at least to so extent.

I like the stainless idea myself.


You know I just might go with the stainless, wouldnt have to worry about them getten scratched up or chipped . What about boltin the axle housings on the rearend. There either grade 3 or grade 5 bolts.

#9 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2012 - 09:50 PM

I believe that you can buy grade 5 and grade 8 stainless hardware...but you'd better take you wallet! They're EXPENSIVE and have to be gotten at a specialty shop.

#10 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 07:01 AM

Yeah,that is the trouble with stainless,it is not cheap.

#11 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 07:03 AM

Don't remember where I picked them up but I had a set of plastic inserts that fit inside a larger box wrench that step down to the bolt being tightened to keep the marks off. Plastic oil bottles cut to fit work just as good and are a throw-away. The shop rag, duct tape, card-stock ideas all work on light torque settings. I can use the plastic bottles up to about 30ft/lbs of torque on small block Chevy intake manifolds with good success. Just some ideas. The correct police have always frowned on stainless, even though I think it looks nice in low torque settings. However, even grade 2 stainless has gone out of my price range on bigger projects. I have never seen grade 5 and 8 around locally. Good luck !

#12 Salatino OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 03:41 PM

ok I was wonderin if 18.8 ss bolts is like the same as grade 8 . Does anyone know much about that I know theres also a ss 316 maybe that is like grade 5. I've never really researched how u compare them. If anyone reading this knows and feels like tellin us it would help . thanks

#13 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 04:02 PM

the 316 and 318 refer to the alloys in the stainless. The strength can vary quite a bit but they would both be in general tens close to a grade 5. A grade 8 bolt is stronger again.
Heres a link to a chart that outlines the markings and strengths

http://www.boltdepot...rade-Chart.aspx

#14 Salatino OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 05:57 PM

after lookin around at the bolts i have off the cub , for the most part there grade 5 other then the headbolts there grade 8. So I guess I shouldnt have to worry about usin stainless on the axle housings since there only grade 3. I do know from exp. if you dont put some kinda grerase or antiseize on the threads they can be tough to get off at times. I usually put a lil vasaline on the threads on every bolt I take off and clean up ,reinstall. Its nice cause it cleans up and doesnt stink and leave a film.




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