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#46 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2012 - 05:53 PM

My opinion on transmissions is that whatever in the truck is fine...automatic, stick, column shift...whatever. I don't care if it's a 3 speed automatic or a 13 speed non-synchro. If it goes frontwards when I want it to and backwards when I want it to, then it's exactly the perfect transmission for whatever vehicle it happens to be in. If it breaks and that free one over there will fit, then that's exactly the perfect transmission to put in.

It takes decades to develop that kind of apathy, and some never do, but I figure I have many other things to worry about. Learn how to drive them all (haven't gotten my hands on an 18 speed yet), and then everything will be good.
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#47 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2012 - 06:15 PM

That's a good philosophy. The only thing I dont know how to drive are sticks with the little high low push/pull button thing on the shifter, but thats only because I haven't gotten the chance yet!

I put the grill back in today, after it was about half way on I thought it would be a good idea to check to see if he blinkers worked. Good thing, cause one bulb was bad. I changed the bulb and put the grill back on. After that, I realized I forgot to put the socket for the left blinker back into the lense. So, it came back off and went back on again. I got pretty good at taking the grill off...

I also took off the back half of the exhaust pipe that was broken off and not doing anything. When I was under it I noticed that one part of the exhaust was welded. It had a perfect seam/crack straight down the center. The seam looked like it went the entire length of that section of pipe, only about half of the seam was welded. I looked at it and it looked like it had a piece of metal behind the seam and that it didn't go all the way through. Is it a crack or is this a seam from when it was made? If its cracked and needs to be replaced it will be a lot more work then just fixing the brake. The brake I can just get a connector and notch it so it fits around the bend and weld it, then clamp the other side of the connector to the rest of the exhaust.

#48 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2012 - 07:05 PM

That's a good philosophy. The only thing I dont know how to drive are sticks with the little high low push/pull button thing on the shifter, but thats only because I haven't gotten the chance yet!


Those are easy...up at 1000 RPM (I'll leave the clutch thing to whoever actually teaches you), down at 1000 RPM. On the way down, raise the RPM by 400 while shifting. It's really a "feel" thing. One air valve (push/pull button thing) is for hi/low range (colours vary...I've seen blue and green too) and the other is for splitting. Not hard...even truck drivers can do it. The important thing is not to be intimidated and to have fun. You won't get it right away, but you'll get it.

I put the grill back in today, after it was about half way on I thought it would be a good idea to check to see if he blinkers worked. Good thing, cause one bulb was bad. I changed the bulb and put the grill back on. After that, I realized I forgot to put the socket for the left blinker back into the lense. So, it came back off and went back on again. I got pretty good at taking the grill off...

I also took off the back half of the exhaust pipe that was broken off and not doing anything. When I was under it I noticed that one part of the exhaust was welded. It had a perfect seam/crack straight down the center. The seam looked like it went the entire length of that section of pipe, only about half of the seam was welded. I looked at it and it looked like it had a piece of metal behind the seam and that it didn't go all the way through. Is it a crack or is this a seam from when it was made? If its cracked and needs to be replaced it will be a lot more work then just fixing the brake. The brake I can just get a connector and notch it so it fits around the bend and weld it, then clamp the other side of the connector to the rest of the exhaust.


I'm not sure I understand what you are saying about the exhaust. It sounds like somebody might have done some kind of sloppy temporary repair though. Exhaust pipes don't usually have seams, especially open seams. Perhaps some pics would help.
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#49 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2012 - 07:29 PM

I thought about taking pictures but I didn't think it was worth crawling out to get my phone, back under to take the picture, out to put my phone back, and under to finish what I was doing just to get a picture that would most likely come out bad laying under the truck. I will try to get some pics tomorrow.

#50 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2012 - 08:04 PM

Cheap exhaust pipes have seams. If it's split at the seam, I'd replace the whole thing. Carbon Monoxide is a bad passenger to have riding with you!
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#51 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2012 - 09:04 PM

Cheap exhaust pipes have seams. If it's split at the seam, I'd replace the whole thing. Carbon Monoxide is a bad passenger to have riding with you!


Ah...maybe I've never had a cheap exhaust pipe. I've always found that a trip down to the local place with a few bucks in cash and no wish for a receipt gets one with all the right bends for a really reasonable price though.
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#52 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2012 - 09:41 PM

Those are easy...up at 1000 RPM (I'll leave the clutch thing to whoever actually teaches you), down at 1000 RPM. On the way down, raise the RPM by 400 while shifting. It's really a "feel" thing. One air valve (push/pull button thing) is for hi/low range (colours vary...I've seen blue and green too) and the other is for splitting. Not hard...even truck drivers can do it. The important thing is not to be intimidated and to have fun. You won't get it right away, but you'll get it.


Couldn't agree more with this. Whenever you get the chance to drive a big truck with an air splitter don't be intimidated by it. They are so easy once you get the hang of it and before you know it you'll be "float" shifting them. Two of the trucks I drive at work have range shift trannies in them, both are Eaton Fuller Road Rangers. Our IH shingle boomtruck is an 8 speed and the other a CH613 Mack with a 28ft dumptrailer is a 10 speed. I only use the clutch on them when I'm at a dead stop, otherwise I float shift all the time. The truck we have on our farm is a W900 Kenworth with a 13 speed Roadranger. This has both a range shift button on it as well as a split shift button. Still a piece of cake to drive. Out of the 3 I prefer the 13 speed on the road, but the 10 speed is the nicest to shift.
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#53 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2012 - 05:59 AM

Couldn't agree more with this. Whenever you get the chance to drive a big truck with an air splitter don't be intimidated by it. They are so easy once you get the hang of it and before you know it you'll be "float" shifting them. Two of the trucks I drive at work have range shift trannies in them, both are Eaton Fuller Road Rangers. Our IH shingle boomtruck is an 8 speed and the other a CH613 Mack with a 28ft dumptrailer is a 10 speed. I only use the clutch on them when I'm at a dead stop, otherwise I float shift all the time. The truck we have on our farm is a W900 Kenworth with a 13 speed Roadranger. This has both a range shift button on it as well as a split shift button. Still a piece of cake to drive. Out of the 3 I prefer the 13 speed on the road, but the 10 speed is the nicest to shift.


Floating gears is great once you get your license, but here they prefer you double-clutch. You don't have to, but a bit of grinding is allowed if you use the clutch but costs points if you don't. I have a heck of a time double-clutching without getting into the clutch brake, since I learned to float gears at the same time I learned to drive the big trucks. Actually, breaking 30 years of bad habits was the hardest part of getting my license.

Now that I can legally drive a class 3 (think you call them CDL B in the US), I mostly drive a 3 ton for work that doesn't require any special licensing. I took the Class 1 (CDL A) training, but discovered I didn't like towing that 53 foot trailer in traffic, so took the Class 3 test.
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#54 LTD OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2012 - 07:28 PM

Those S-10s are great trucks. My dad bought and S15 (Gmc version of an s10) brand new and put a ton of miles on it before he sold it and he hardly had any problems withit. Thats looks like a real nice truck. I just bought my first truck about 2 weeks ago too. I'd put some pic's up but I don't want to hijack your thread.
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#55 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2012 - 04:41 AM

I don't know if they redesigned it or not, but when the S10 first came out back in the '80's. But the only way to remove the transmission to replace the clutch was to take a long bar and use it to beat the firewall back on the drivers side. The upper bolt would not screw completely out of the block. If you beat the firewall back about a1/2" then you could at least unscrew the bolt out enough to remove the tranny, the bolt would still be the bell housing, but at least it was out of the block.

I had a similar issue with a bell housing bolt on a Chev 1/2 ton. No room for a hammer , so I drilled out a 2" hole in the tunnel with a hole saw from inside the truck for access, then patched it over with sheet metal when I was finished-GM got a good cussing the entire time.
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#56 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2012 - 06:23 AM

Thanks Ravenwood! That makes sense about knowing how something works, it deffinetly makes me more efficent with tractor work.

Is a Chilton manual just a little bit of everything?

The bed should be about 4, 5 inch welds or so to fix it, I think it would be less work to fix the bed then chop it up.

I keep forgetting to post that it has a 4.3 liter 6 cylinder in it. A v8 is more power then I would ever need from this truck. Plus, that's a lot more gas.


The 4.3 V6 is a Chevy motor, younwould be surprised at how many V8 parts will fit it.
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#57 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2012 - 06:26 AM

Couldn't agree more with this. Whenever you get the chance to drive a big truck with an air splitter don't be intimidated by it. They are so easy once you get the hang of it and before you know it you'll be "float" shifting them. Two of the trucks I drive at work have range shift trannies in them, both are Eaton Fuller Road Rangers. Our IH shingle boomtruck is an 8 speed and the other a CH613 Mack with a 28ft dumptrailer is a 10 speed. I only use the clutch on them when I'm at a dead stop, otherwise I float shift all the time. The truck we have on our farm is a W900 Kenworth with a 13 speed Roadranger. This has both a range shift button on it as well as a split shift button. Still a piece of cake to drive. Out of the 3 I prefer the 13 speed on the road, but the 10 speed is the nicest to shift.


I always liked the 13 speed myself, I used a drive a Ford Dumptruck with a 9 speed, and a in traffic I used to skip a gear once in a while.
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#58 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2012 - 08:04 PM

I got a few holes drilled in the bed and bolted to the bed frame so that problem is fixed now. I also got a pipe to fix the exhaust, Autozone had the correct piece for $25. Not having the pipe I wasn't sure if another piece was bad or not but after getting the replacement section it became clear I needed another piece. The one I still need is just a straight pipe one foot long, hopefully I can get it tomorrow.

#59 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2012 - 04:53 AM

Glad you are getting it fixed, Ryan! I've had a couple S-10's myself. Not bad little trucks. Good luck with the exhaust!

#60 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2012 - 10:35 AM

Finally got the exhaust all fixed. Now that its quieter I can hear that its not running right, Ill put some dry gas in it and hopefully that helps.




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