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First Car, Or Truck I Should Say


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#31 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2012 - 07:42 PM

Looks kind of like an adjustable back scratcher to me. :bigrofl:
Yeah, it's a broken shingle remover.
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#32 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 07:07 AM

Ryan,looks like Ironman's back scratcher. :laughingteeth:
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#33 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 07:37 AM

Congratulations- The "first" vehicle will always make wonderful memories and I see a new contest " How many times will Ryan wash his new ride between now and August??"

My guess is 34, 569. :laughingteeth: :laughingteeth: :laughingteeth:
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#34 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 09:42 AM

It could be a back scratcher, and if its gets used at all thats probably all it will be used for!

Wow Toolpartz, thats a lot of washing! I did the math, to wash it that many times each wash would need to be 4.9 seconds and nonstop until my birthday. And that does not leave much seat time!

#35 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 05:18 PM

Well, I washed it once! Took a lot longer then 5 seconds. I looked at the exhaust problem and its broken just behind the catalytic converter. It has a bend on one side of the brake so I cant just put a connector on it. The bed is rotted where the back half bolts to the frame and can be lifted off of the frame. The tailgate sits on the bumper. I might be able to shorten up the steel strap things an inch or two. The brakes are a little soft and the E-brake is almost non-existent. I only drove it from the driveway to the back yard and only went on about 40 feet of road and stayed in 1st so I cant really tell if the clutch is bad but it didn't feel to bad the little bit I drove it. Pics soon.

#36 sieborg400 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 09:12 PM

Nice truck! You will want to check the front end before you drive it on the road! First thing to check is tie rods,idler arm etc. Lay down in front of the truck and have someone turn the wheel back and forth and look for any movement in your steering components. Next use a floor jack and jack up both sides of the truck under the lower control arms ( under were the spring sites) and have someone with a long bar under the tire lift up and down to see if you have any play in the upper and lower ball joints. The 4+4 trucks are known for front end problums. I hope this helps. Steve......

Edited by sieborg400, March 10, 2012 - 09:19 PM.

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#37 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2012 - 04:37 AM

I don't know if they redesigned it or not, but when the S10 first came out back in the '80's. But the only way to remove the transmission to replace the clutch was to take a long bar and use it to beat the firewall back on the drivers side. The upper bolt would not screw completely out of the block. If you beat the firewall back about a1/2" then you could at least unscrew the bolt out enough to remove the tranny, the bolt would still be the bell housing, but at least it was out of the block.

Edited by Amigatec, March 11, 2012 - 04:38 AM.

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#38 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2012 - 06:42 AM

Sounds like you got a good deal there Ryan :thumbs: . Looks like an awful decent neighbor too.
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#39 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2012 - 06:04 PM

Well, I put it back into the driveway this morning and did some little things to it. The first thing I did was try to figure out the door problem. The handle would pop it but not open it so I stuck my hand into the door (It has no panel on that side) and found the latch and pushed the lever, that made it open! The latch was stuck so I freed it up and it would open but not close all the way. It turns out that the guard thing was bent and jamming up the latch. Hammered it so it was out of the way and now it opens and closes fine. Next, I vacuumed the inside good and cleaned it all real good. Somebody must of backed into something because on the drives side the bed is ever so slightly dented and the light trim was bent up, I straightened the trim out so not its not as noticeable now. I looked at the bed and the bed body is not welded to the bed frame on the outside so I will have to either weld it or bolt it, or both. While I was under it I checked the U joints and they are on point. Also, it shakes at 110...

The sun and shadows were really messing with me and this is the only pic I got that was worth saving.
Posted Image

#40 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2012 - 06:50 AM

Congrats on the truck Ryan. It should make a good first vehicle for you. :thumbs:

110??? :(

#41 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2012 - 04:13 PM

Today I took off the grill and epoxied the broken blinker back on. You can see its broken in my original picture. It takes 24 hours to fully cure so I will put it back on tomorrow.

#42 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2012 - 07:32 PM

Looks like a great first vehicle, Ryan. It's good to get something that needs some work so you can learn about them. I'm a firm believer that knowing how a vehicle works making you a better driver.

Some things I thought of while reading the thread.

The first is that you should invest in a Chilton or a Haynes manual for it. I prefer the Chilton manuals, but it doesn't really matter which.

The second is that if the box is too expensive to fix, you can always turn it into a flatbed. I'm not sure of the details of how to do that with the S-10s, but we have major rust problems up here because of the weather and I've seen several S-10s fixed that way.

Finally, Chev products have a lot of parts interchangeability. If the engine blows tomorrow, you can fit anything from the present 4 cylinder (excellent motor btw) to a small block v-8 into it, depending on what's available, laws where you are, and how much work you are willing to do. It's not something everybody wants to do, but it's always good to know you have options. 305 v-8s are pretty much free around here right now, there's so many of them, but the 4 and 6 cylinders can be pretty pricey.
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#43 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2012 - 07:59 PM

Thanks Ravenwood! That makes sense about knowing how something works, it deffinetly makes me more efficent with tractor work.

Is a Chilton manual just a little bit of everything?

The bed should be about 4, 5 inch welds or so to fix it, I think it would be less work to fix the bed then chop it up.

I keep forgetting to post that it has a 4.3 liter 6 cylinder in it. A v8 is more power then I would ever need from this truck. Plus, that's a lot more gas.

#44 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2012 - 08:46 PM

Thanks Ravenwood! That makes sense about knowing how something works, it deffinetly makes me more efficent with tractor work.

Is a Chilton manual just a little bit of everything?

The bed should be about 4, 5 inch welds or so to fix it, I think it would be less work to fix the bed then chop it up.

I keep forgetting to post that it has a 4.3 liter 6 cylinder in it. A v8 is more power then I would ever need from this truck. Plus, that's a lot more gas.


A Chilton manual (or a Haynes) is specific to the vehicle, so you'd buy one for your truck. It'll say something like 1986-1992 S-10 in the title. It'll have all the specs for everything, as well as instructions for repair. I taught myself to rebuild engines from one, and buy one for every vehicle I own.

The V-8 suggestion was just to let you know you've got options. The same applies if you want to change the number of headlights (I don't know why, but some people like to do that) or put in an automatic transmission or whatever. GMC/Chev is great for parts interchangeability. As for needing more power, when I grew up old muscle cars were mostly the cheap cars we could afford, so the idea of more power is kind of burned into my mind. Hopefully you're more practical and responsible than we were though.

Yes, a few welds is easier than building a flatbed.
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#45 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2012 - 09:16 PM

Thanks for the advice, maybe I will look for one. I don't see any reason why I would need to change the headlights or anything else. I am going to just leave everything stock. I know it was just an example but, I would never swap a manual for an auto tranny. I like stick, less to mess up or go wrong, plus, you have better control if you know how to drive.




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