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Help Removing Drawbar Block From Frame


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#1 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 04:18 PM

I recently bent one of the lift arms on my 71, its my fault and should have been avoided. When I was trying to take off one of the lift arms one block wouldn't come out of the frame. When I first took the lift off I was using the spreader jaws on my porta-power between the big round bar and frame. After I put some tension onto the jaws I tried to shock it with a hammer but it stayed in.Since the one arm was bent I cut it off and lift slid over and I didn't have to remove the one block. Now that I have It welded back together and straight I have to take off the block to put it back on. to try and remove the block I hooked one end of a come-a-long (I dont think thats spelled correctly) to the block and one end to a tow hook on the front of a truck. The tractor just slid when I cranked it so I put some car ramps behind the tires so try and dig into the ground but they just cut through the wet driveway. How do you think I could get the block out?

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#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 04:44 PM

It is most likely rusted tight to the sleeve it's in. I would heat it with a torch and cool it quickly with water. Do this 3 times, I don't know why it works at 3 times, but it ussually does.
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#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 04:50 PM

Ryan, I'd try installing a bolt and nut through the hole in the block with the nut side to the inside of the tractor. I'd then try to pry on the bolt/nut with a pry bar using the cross piece to pry against. As said above a bit of heat to the sleeve would help as well. Hard for me to tell what's up because I'm not familiar with those tractors.
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#4 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 05:02 PM

Figure out a way to put some tension on it, not a lot though as you don't want it coming out of there like a bullet. Like the others have said, put some heat evenly to the entire outside of the tube, and set up a vibration in the tube with a hammer while heating. Don't beat it to death, just get it to vibrate. This is something that has to be done quickly. if the heat transfers to the bar on the inside, it will swell along with the tube and remain stuck. A rosebud torch head would help with the heating quickly bit. It would be helpful also to have some else run the torch or the hammer so you don't have to try and do both. When it starts to move, keep it moving!
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#5 Lovintractorin OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 05:11 PM

That looks like it's in there tight. I don't know what to else to say other than what has been mentioned but a torch is your friend when working with rusted parts.
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#6 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 05:14 PM

See if there is a way to hook up a slide hammer to your drawbar. Also, I suppose you could chain or rope the front of your tractor to a nearby tree and keep trying to use your come-along.
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#7 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 05:31 PM

I dont know why I didn't think of using a torch, I must have walked past it 10 times while trying to use the come-along. I will try some heat and a hammer with the come-along for tension. I thought about anchoring the front to something but that will be a last resort, I dont want to break something else. I dont know why its so tight, on my 75 the blocks have a lot of wiggle room.

JDBrian, I don't think there is anyway to hook a slide hammer to it and im not sure what your trying to say with the bolt.

#8 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 08:23 PM

It's strange that yours is on so tight . On both of mine they were so loose that I tack welded them from moving so much . Could someone have done that to yours ? Other then what the others have said I would scribe a mark on the block where it goings into the frame and use a sledge hammer and wooded block to see if it moves at all , might make it easier then to pull out once the rust is broken . Al
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#9 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 09:06 PM

The bolt that holds them in goes through that hole on the top of the frame, when I got it it didn't even have the bolts in it! Its so tight that it doesn't even need them! I thought it might have been welded so I checked, its not. I will try to smack it in some, sounds like a good idea to me! I will give it another go tomorrow morning.

#10 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 10:15 PM

One older one I had they actually ground or machined off the top of the block for looser clearance I guess. Mine came out fairly hard, but what you are doing should be working for most I have seen. They are usually not that close in fit. I vote for penetrant when you go in for night and heat the next day. Good Luck!
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#11 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2012 - 12:35 PM

I tapped it into the frame a little to brake the rust bond and then put tension on the come-along and heated the frame then tapped it with a hammer, I quickly realized that wasn't working.

I tried to put a bar through the hole to pull on it but the tire was in the way so that had to come off. I put a board between the frame and bar, heated it then pulled and tapped at the same time. It was difficult to pull on one end of the bar and swing a hammer with my arms stretched apart so, after heating it a few times and getting it to move about a half inch I gave up that method.

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I knew that if I could get tension on it with my porta-power it would be much easier. The problem with that is that there was no way for the spreader jaws to grip the block so I put a stud from a semi truck through the hole and put a lug nut on to hold it in place. I put tension on it and every tap made it come out a little bit more. I didn't even heat it and I got it out without much trouble using this method.

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Thanks for the help!

Edited by Ryan313, March 04, 2012 - 12:37 PM.


#12 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2012 - 12:45 PM

One older one I had they actually ground or machined off the top of the block for looser clearance I guess. Mine came out fairly hard, but what you are doing should be working for most I have seen. They are usually not that close in fit. I vote for penetrant when you go in for night and heat the next day. Good Luck!


I looked on my 75 to if it was machined, since its so loose. On the underside of the block it has a step about 1/8 inch were it was machined to slide into the frame better. I geuss this was a common problem with the older ones.

#13 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2012 - 01:07 PM

That's great news Ryan! Glad that you got it out!

#14 ariensman2 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2012 - 06:12 PM

On my 69, it was very tight just like yours. I got pulled out and grinded it down a little for a better fit, then greased it up and it slides in and out nicely now. Good job getting yours out. It looks like it was a stubborn one.

#15 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2012 - 06:52 PM

Excellent progress! :thumbs:




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