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Panzer Problem Solved


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#1 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2012 - 07:14 PM

I was having trouble with the belt tension on my 1107. Looked into it toady and found out that the bar that controls the movement of the drive shaft is severly worn. Looks like i need to find someone who can weld cast iron

#2 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2012 - 08:46 PM

If you can't find someone to weld it how about brazing it ? Al

#3 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2012 - 09:25 PM

If you post a pic of the damage, maybe the gang could come up with some alternatives for you. Welding cast is tricky to begin with. I have different grades of Nickel rod, but couldn't begin to tell you which one would make a more durable repair.

#4 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2012 - 10:34 PM

A local fabrication shop could probably weld it for you, or know were you could get it welded.

#5 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 05:13 AM

Like Steve stated,if you post some pics,maybe some of us can give you ideas.

#6 Trent Thomson OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 06:42 AM

I had to well the loop that the attachment pin goes through on the 800 tranny once that is cast iron and was told to heat it red hot with the torch and then stick weld it while it is still red.. It has been hold great for about 7 years now.

#7 DirtyContacts OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 07:21 AM

I found a similar issue wuth my T70, Im using a bronze bushing that was actually an insert on the drive train. Im not sure about your model.

#8 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 08:17 AM

thanks guys i will post pics today.

#9 Delmar OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 08:26 AM

I have the same wear on the same part you describe on my T-75. I solved most of my problems tho when I realized the mounting bolts for the motor were loose too.

#10 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2012 - 09:23 PM

The bar itself is steel, so you'll be okay to weld. We can even weld up the plates. Even though they are cast... just putting a facing on them is not structural, so it will hold just fine.

Take the 2 plates off the drive where that bar sticks up through. There's a bolt at the front and rear of the plates. Take them out and the plates come free.

Then loosen the big set screw at the back of where the drive lever meets the shaft. When you loosen that, you can grab the foot pedal and slide it out. When it's out, the whole drive lever - including that bar that needs welded - will come out easily.

Bring that whole drive lever and the 2 plates out and we should be able to re-face the shaft and the plates in about 20 minutes or so. Done it once already now, so pretty confident that we could knock it out pretty quick. Just let me know when you want to get it done and I'll pm the address or directions. We're only about 20 mins from Delmont.

#11 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2012 - 05:18 PM

I have the drive lever out and the plates off. So when ever a good time for u is. My buddy has a welder but we need to learn how to weld or i would do it.

#12 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2012 - 07:48 PM

Good deal. Well, I'll be here on Wednesday if you want to come here. You'd have school though, right? If you want help getting started on your buddy's welder, we can do that,too. But I'd want to wait till the weekend to come down. If it's a mig, flux core wire feed, or stick (arc), I should be able to help you guys get it going. I haven't fooled around with any TIG or any other rarer welder types.

#13 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2012 - 03:12 PM

its a mig welder. Yeah i got school. So maybe the weekend would be a better time. As long as the 1107 is fixed for aprils show

#14 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2012 - 04:48 PM

Okay. Make sure he's got Argon/CO2 gas and solid wire then. A mig won't work right without it. Just PM me when it gets closer to the weekend. Should have some time mornings.




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