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46 Bean Cutler-4


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#1 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 03:05 PM

When I first hooked up the engine lift cable I had the lift arm set so that when it was in neutral, the lock pin was up against the tab on the left side of the stop bracket.

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Turns out that when the lever is in neutral, the lock pin is suppose to be down against the right end of the stop bracket ( not the left end ).
The pin I made up isn't long enough to reach down past the end of the bracket.

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The original pin was broken off on the end so I had welded a piece of rod to it to replace what was missing.
Rather than weld another piece of rod to the original pin, I'm going to make a whole new pin.

First thing is to get out the bending die that I had made about 40 years ago.
It's just a steel block with three different diameter hardened steel pins pressed into it.
This gets clamped in the vise.

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The end of a piece of steel rod is heated up until it starts to glow and then I set it in the die and bend it around the die pin.

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I do the same thing for each of the bends in the rod.

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Here's the new ( longer ) lift pin next to the original lift pin.

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The new pin is cut off to the correct length an re-assembled on the lever.
As you can see, it now extends down past the end of the stop bracket to hold the engine up in the neutral position.

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There is about 5/8 inch space between the support for the pin and where the pin actually rides up against the stop bracket.
I want to do something to get support on the pin closer to where the force is on the pin but I don't want to drastically modify the factory design.

So I decided to braze a section of steel tube to the underside of the pin support.
As you can see here, this now supports the pin down close to where it contacts the end of the stop bracket.

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This is about where the lever should ride in drive position.

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This is as far forward as the lever can go.

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With everything re-painted, it's hard to tell that the pin support was modified.

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With the new cable attached, this is the position of the lever in drive.

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Edited by jdcrawler, February 28, 2012 - 03:18 PM.

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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 03:17 PM

That looks very good, Ray. I like your bending jig, may have to make one of those up. Looks like it does a good job. What size are the pins in it?
That lift pin should work great for quite some time. Very nice fix.
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#3 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 03:28 PM

Nice job Ray, I like the way you used your jig to bend the rod. I don't think anyone will see your little alteration to that bracket.... :thumbs:
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#4 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 03:45 PM

Looking good ,Ray.I like that jig you have geared up for bending round stock.
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#5 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 04:30 PM

Awesome job Ray, glad you got it all squared away. Now you can move onto the next step.
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#6 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 05:11 PM

Nice job Ray and good detailed pictures. Made a jig like that at work years ago and it worked great. Never have made one for myself but will if I ever need to bend some round stock.
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#7 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 05:54 PM

Looks good Ray! Good job replicating the pin! I like the little jig you made!
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#8 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 06:38 PM

I like your bending jig, may have to make one of those up. Looks like it does a good job. What size are the pins in it?

3/8" - 1/2" - 5/16"
This works good on bending flat strips as well.

Edited by jdcrawler, February 28, 2012 - 06:39 PM.

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