Turns out that when the lever is in neutral, the lock pin is suppose to be down against the right end of the stop bracket ( not the left end ).
The pin I made up isn't long enough to reach down past the end of the bracket.
The original pin was broken off on the end so I had welded a piece of rod to it to replace what was missing.
Rather than weld another piece of rod to the original pin, I'm going to make a whole new pin.
First thing is to get out the bending die that I had made about 40 years ago.
It's just a steel block with three different diameter hardened steel pins pressed into it.
This gets clamped in the vise.
The end of a piece of steel rod is heated up until it starts to glow and then I set it in the die and bend it around the die pin.
I do the same thing for each of the bends in the rod.
Here's the new ( longer ) lift pin next to the original lift pin.
The new pin is cut off to the correct length an re-assembled on the lever.
As you can see, it now extends down past the end of the stop bracket to hold the engine up in the neutral position.
There is about 5/8 inch space between the support for the pin and where the pin actually rides up against the stop bracket.
I want to do something to get support on the pin closer to where the force is on the pin but I don't want to drastically modify the factory design.
So I decided to braze a section of steel tube to the underside of the pin support.
As you can see here, this now supports the pin down close to where it contacts the end of the stop bracket.
This is about where the lever should ride in drive position.
This is as far forward as the lever can go.
With everything re-painted, it's hard to tell that the pin support was modified.
With the new cable attached, this is the position of the lever in drive.
Edited by jdcrawler, February 28, 2012 - 03:18 PM.