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Help With Carb


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#1 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 11:34 AM

I've have carb issues and not being a carb guy, I would like some help please- Carb is marked "Amem"-nothing else numbers etc. The application is a 16HP Vanguard driving a Gravely Hydro-Pro Z-Turn Walk behind. 303-w/52" cut. I've owned it about a year and is aways reliable and runs good. I neglected to start it each week since fall.

Now its a Non-start. I have fire/and fuel to the carb. I pulled the carb and the bowl is completely dry. I'm thinking its the lawyer solenoid for fuel shut-off, however I can see no plunger and the passage from the end of the threaded tube to the side port is clear ???? I thought the solenoid fired to "pull" a pin to open this passage?( and close for shut off) (It will start with a squirt of Carb Cleaner)

Here's the carb breakdown PAGE 5 ANyone with some ideas??

2012022720120227_01.JPG 2012022720120227_01_01.JPG Attached File  Vgrd Carb.pdf   2.15MB   32 downloads

#2 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 12:22 PM

It sounds to me like the Pulse Pump is not working, check the rubber line leading to the valve cover box making shure there are no rips, cracks or tears, the diaphragm in the pump may be defective or clogged.
The carb needle may be jammed open in the shell, tripping it with wires off of the battery will test to see if the solenoid works and if the relay switch is defective, only touch the wire momentary as so not to burn it out, i would advise you to reassemble the carb to test the solenoid in this manor.
I hope this helps, there are GT Talk members who know much more then i do on this particular carb.
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#3 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 01:02 PM

Thanks Trowel,I'll try that. If by pulse pump ,you're referring to the fuel pump-its pumping. The only other tube connector is a sort of vent-I think-into the air cleaner box. It IS cracked at the open end. I'check the solenoid again. I grounded the solenoid housing and with the key on -nothing. I can check it by jumping both +/-, but it appears to me to be stuck "open".

#4 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 01:41 PM

Thanks Trowel,I'll try that. If by pulse pump ,you're referring to the fuel pump-its pumping. The only other tube connector is a sort of vent-I think-into the air cleaner box. It IS cracked at the open end. I'check the solenoid again. I grounded the solenoid housing and with the key on -nothing. I can check it by jumping both +/-, but it appears to me to be stuck "open".


What i mean by pulse pump is that the rubber line leading to the air cleaner is a suction tube, as the engine draws air into the carb/intake it sucks on the pump which in turn helps suck the fuel from the fuel tank to the carb, it ''pulses'' with the engine, im shure there are many different names for it but to separate it from the mecanicaly driven fuel pump i have a habit of calling it a pulse pump, and is glad it still works but may not be working properly with air seeping in through the crack.

Im willing to stand corrected if someone knows the proper term for it.

Hit it with some carb cleaner for it may just be gunked in with residue, when you touch off the wires it should make a noted click.
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#5 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 01:45 PM

I have to go to work soon and is preping,
There are many GT Talk members that will be able to help you further this evening, i wish you the best.
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#6 ckjakline ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 06:45 PM

Is your needle valve stuck shut.That will not allow fuel into carb also.
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#7 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 07:45 PM

Pull the pin that holds the float on, make sure you watch what pieces come out of where. Some of the float needles have an inner pin with a spring and some just have the needle that hangs on the float. Pull the needle out and make sure it is clean and also blow the passageway clear.
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#8 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 08:23 PM

George and cjkakline: Could be you guys are SPOT ON. The little hinge pin for the float is tight and I have it all soaking now. It seemed to me that the float travel was TOO limited-(just a hunch--) after soaking with Chem 12, it began to loosen and move thru a greater arc. Can't pull the pin yet George-its still tight , but maybe by morning. I'm assuming if the float travel is "locked", . that can either flood the bowl or shut off fuel flow completely, which is what I see.

My early fear that the shut solenoid is bad is mute because if it's stuck closed=no big deal. Trowels earlier help with a pulse tube likely doesn't apply here because the only tube present connects the air cleaner base with the lower portion of the crankcase-nothing to the valve covers- so I think its safe to conclude that its a crankcase vent.

Non-the less, with everyones help, it may light off in the morning. Thanks everyone--Lee

#9 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 08:34 PM

If the fuel solenoid plunger is stuck in the extended/closed position then the engine will die out only a few seconds after started. If it is in the retracted/open position the engine may run for a bit even after the ignition switch is shut off (dieseling).
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#10 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 11:00 PM

Trowels earlier help with a pulse tube likely doesn't apply here because the only tube present connects the air cleaner base with the lower portion of the crankcase


Im glad you are a step closer now, i also see that you posted a PDF file which i missed showing the pump, it is only a blow-by hose, my help does not apply at all.




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