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Project Cultivator


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#1 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 07:29 PM

I am planning to build a toolbar/cultivator and looking for pointers. My thought was to make a frame for the 3 pt then take angle iron for my toolbar. Use pipe with a set screw to hold a round bar for the tooth. I was thinking of using 2 inch by quarter flat bar for my A frame. A 3 by 5 angle for my bar. Are my steel sizes heavy enough? Has anyone else tried anything like this? :anyone:

#2 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 07:31 PM

No experience here, I am sure others will help soon. Sounds interesting. I will watch this one.

#3 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 09:34 PM

As long as the angle is heavy 12 or 10 gauge but 16 gauge strengthened with X weld beads will do, i would go with a 4 x 1/4 inch flat bar instead of the 2 inch.
Another idear for the tool holders are 2 inch flat bar bent in a U shape (u-clamp) with hole drilled though both ends for the culti shank bar and a hole drilled through the top of the U-clamp and a nut welded over the hole, a bolt will be screwed into the nut and pull the u-clamp and culti shank tight against the tool frame, when the tool is to be moved, the U-clamp is losened and slide to the left or right.
i can post pictures of the clamp if you want.

Edited by trowel, February 24, 2012 - 09:37 PM.

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#4 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 11:12 PM

I don't have any knowlage here but, I will be following this one. Good luck!

#5 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2012 - 07:15 AM

Thanks for your ideas Trowel, the reason I thought of using pipe for the toolholders is less drilling and cutting. My shop tools are very limited
and I try not to use the machine shops too much for the little custom work on my projects. I got some of my ideas from pictures of brinly toolbars and the rest from my scrap pile. I am picking up the steel for the a frame today, so will see how far i get on it. Probily should have started asking questions before ordering steel. Already ordered 2 in flat with linkpin holes prepunched, maybe if i put in extra bracing it will hold. :unsure:
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#6 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2012 - 06:07 PM

Yes, the 2 inch flat bar can be brased and strenthened into T-bars, do you have a good welder ?, i can see the direction you are heading in regarding the Brinly Culti frame, what OD is the pipe and is it black iron pipes ?

#7 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2012 - 07:38 PM

If there is any heating or welding of pipe, do make sure you use the black iron pipe. Galvanized pipe gives off nasty metal fumes when welded.
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#8 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2012 - 08:14 PM

Thanks for the reminder of galvanized, I knew of that but didnt think of it when started this. I tried to draw a picture of what I had in mind for this toolbar. What diameter are the Brinly toolholders? I got threequarter inch for my shovel holders and wasnt quite sure if that was heavy enough. The pipe has a ID of 1 inch and non galvanized. For the welding I will use FIL stick welder, I am more used to that than mig.
toolbar.jpg

Edited by shorty, February 27, 2012 - 08:19 PM.

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#9 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 12:37 AM

I see were you are going, that is a very good idear and simple, 1/4 of an inch flatbar welded into a T-bar would work great, 3/4 of an inch should be strong enough, all pipes have a seam unless it is drilled stock, find the seam were the pipe was joined and weld it against the tool bar, there will be no chance of a tear out then, what are you using for locking nuts and bolts ?
To give you idears i pulled these pic's off the net for you to look at.

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#10 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 02:29 AM

i built one for my suburban back a few yrs before i got a real one. It worked out fairly well until i hit a root one time and bent the 1/2 x 2" bar stock the main frame was made from. If you look at the Sears unit you will see that it is basiclly tee shaped and the shovels are mounted at a staggered pattern, instead of all in a row. This keeps the stain off the bar and keeps the unit from plugging up when you hit a bigger weed. You should also notice that they used three differnt shanks offsets to help with the spacings. It also uses gauge wheels. If you look at a brinly made one you see that they went with a V shaped design, with the shovels spaced down each side. This give them the staggered pattern and keep you from loading up the whole bar and twisting it. I dont remember seeing any gauge wheels for them, but that may be due to the sleeve hitch they used.
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#11 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 05:32 AM

Sorry,I can't help you on this.Once you get going on this,please keep us updated with photos.

#12 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 06:45 PM

I really like the look of that last one. Very versitile and sturdy looking. :thumbs:

#13 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 06:46 PM

I see were you are going, that is a very good idear and simple, 1/4 of an inch flatbar welded into a T-bar would work great, 3/4 of an inch should be strong enough, all pipes have a seam unless it is drilled stock, find the seam were the pipe was joined and weld it against the tool bar, there will be no chance of a tear out then, what are you using for locking nuts and bolts ?
To give you idears i pulled these pic's off the net for you to look at.

Thanks for the pictures,the first one is sort of what I was aiming for. Drilling all those holes precisely with a cordless drill started to look like a disaster. Main reason I am using pipe instead of clamps. I like the design of that last one too. I think I got enough parts cut I wil continue as planned, maybe next year. :smile1:

Edited by shorty, February 28, 2012 - 06:53 PM.


#14 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 29, 2012 - 12:06 AM

i built one for my suburban back a few yrs before i got a real one. It worked out fairly well until i hit a root one time and bent the 1/2 x 2" bar stock the main frame was made from. If you look at the Sears unit you will see that it is basiclly tee shaped and the shovels are mounted at a staggered pattern, instead of all in a row. This keeps the stain off the bar and keeps the unit from plugging up when you hit a bigger weed. You should also notice that they used three differnt shanks offsets to help with the spacings. It also uses gauge wheels. If you look at a brinly made one you see that they went with a V shaped design, with the shovels spaced down each side. This give them the staggered pattern and keep you from loading up the whole bar and twisting it. I dont remember seeing any gauge wheels for them, but that may be due to the sleeve hitch they used.

You are 100 % right on the A-frame, here is one with a Depth Gauge wheel, well built units with Planet Jr. shovels.

Thanks for the pictures,the first one is sort of what I was aiming for. Drilling all those holes precisely with a cordless drill started to look like a disaster. Main reason I am using pipe instead of clamps. I like the design of that last one too. I think I got enough parts cut I wil continue as planned, maybe next year. :smile1:


Sounds good, If you could, would you post pictures of you progress, we really would like to see the build in action, Lauber1 brings up another good idear regarding the depth gauge wheels, if you have 2 extra sections of pipe how about using them for a set of wheels or skid shoes ? you could follow the pictured culti as an example, it will keep the shovels from ''bitting'' too much.
I really like the Last picture with the disks too, it is called a Bedder or Hiller.

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Edited by trowel, February 29, 2012 - 12:08 AM.

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#15 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 29, 2012 - 09:46 PM

I made this "U" shaped frame 2" x 2" X 1/4" steel to attach a 1" x2" 5' bar which I have some DB cultivators for . Also made this rake out of tubing . Some day I would like to make a set of hiller discs , but that's on my long wish list , Al

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