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Trailer Ramps- Aluminum


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#16 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2012 - 01:44 PM

Couple different ideas that I have used before:

Increasing traction on wood or slick metal ramps - paint and course sand - paint the ramp surface and sprinkle the sand on the wet paint - once it dries, it is like a sandpaper that will HELP with traction.

For 2 seperate ramps (boards, ladders, etc not hard wired to the vehicle) I used a piece of board to tie the two ramps together at the top where they lip onto the tailgate. Just used a few screws through the ramp into the board - that way you are less likely to have one ramp slide, slip or move. Then you can also use a strap mounted on the cross board to hold the ramp onto your tailgate (belt it around the tailgate and the cross brace). less likely to move then. If you use the ramps on a trailer, make a dowel pin through the ramp/cross brace and into the trailer deck to help secure it from moving.

Finally, I have a winch on my heavy trailer that I use most of the time - Even if I'm gonna drive something up onto the trailer, I hook up the winch and use the extension control to keep the line taught. IF the tractor looses traction, the winch helps it up. Backing down works the same way - it controls the descent rate and keeps the tractor from running away off the ramp. Also less tire force (drive and braking) to move the ramps around.
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#17 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2012 - 02:47 PM

I like your paint and sand idea and am going to put that to the test this summer.

#18 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2012 - 12:57 AM

Most paint stores (even Lowes...) sell a traction additive you can add to the paint (allgrip was a brand name), but sand seems to work just as well. Something like the bags of playground sand, or sandblasting sand.

As a kid, we did the same type of thing with shellac on boat deck surfaces to keep you from going for an unplanned swim.....

#19 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2012 - 07:21 AM

The one trailer I have that uses ramps has an angle iron trough on the back & the ramps have an angle iron on them that hooks into it, no slipping!

GARDEN TRACTORS 475 (Small) (2).jpg

My other trailers have rampgates. ~~ Lowell

#20 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2012 - 10:57 AM

The one trailer I have that uses ramps has an angle iron trough on the back & the ramps have an angle iron on them that hooks into it, no slipping!

GARDEN TRACTORS 475 (Small) (2).jpg

My other trailers have rampgates. ~~ Lowell


That's One Nice Looking TRailer! And I like your way of thinking. The angles locking the ramps in place is wise and safer than what some of us have done in the past.

I also like the markers on the back corners. My dad has a small trailer with a short tongue and when pulling it with the pickup it is nearly impossible to see when backing up.

Edited by JD DANNELS, February 27, 2012 - 11:00 AM.


#21 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2012 - 11:13 AM

Lowell,that is a real nice looking trailer.Is that one you built,or did you buy it?

#22 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2012 - 04:32 PM

Lowell that is a nice trailer.....like the low profile and I am sure light weight for a steel trailer.....nice job!

#23 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2012 - 06:06 PM

]

That's One Nice Looking TRailer! And I like your way of thinking. The angles locking the ramps in place is wise and safer than what some of us have done in the past.

I also like the markers on the back corners. My dad has a small trailer with a short tongue and when pulling it with the pickup it is nearly impossible to see when backing up.


Thanks, that pic was taken when I first got it! Looks even better with yellow wheels:

GARDEN TRACTORS 485 (Small).jpg

Lowell

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#24 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2012 - 06:30 PM

Couple of thoughts,
I have used these successfully... with all my tractors, and I have to load em a ways up, into the back of a 3/4 ton 4x4,
http://www.tractorsu...90-in-l-1035016. Which I was able to safely load and unload my Gravely with a Wt of #1000, so they'll handle the run of the mill 7-800 pound GT without a worry.

That said I look forward to the day when I can get a 'low rider' trailer like grnspot110 has, (I'd def choose another color! - :orangecool: ) , there is no substitute for safety,

I also purchased a winch capable of lifting #2000 (from HF of course), that I am going to wire up in the front of my truck bed so for the units that have to be 'forced' into the truck I can latch it on to the winch and pull er in remotely (until I get my trailer).

GL and Great Thread

#25 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 09:14 AM

Couple of thoughts,
I have used these successfully... with all my tractors, and I have to load em a ways up, into the back of a 3/4 ton 4x4,
http://www.tractorsu...90-in-l-1035016. Which I was able to safely load and unload my Gravely with a Wt of #1000, so they'll handle the run of the mill 7-800 pound GT without a worry.

That said I look forward to the day when I can get a 'low rider' trailer like grnspot110 has, (I'd def choose another color! - :orangecool: ) , there is no substitute for safety,

I also purchased a winch capable of lifting #2000 (from HF of course), that I am going to wire up in the front of my truck bed so for the units that have to be 'forced' into the truck I can latch it on to the winch and pull er in remotely (until I get my trailer).

GL and Great Thread


Nut Case: The winch would defineately be an asset. But depending on your set up, mounting in the pickup bed might give an extreme angle to the cable? I know it would with my F150 and since it's pretty straight I would not want to scratch up the tailgate dragging a cable across it.. Have you thought of using a reciever mounted to the front of your trailer so the winch could be mounted when needed and stored in a dry place(shed) to protect it from weather when not in use?
Just thought I would throw that out for consideration.

#26 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 12:45 PM

Nut Case: The winch would defineately be an asset. But depending on your set up, mounting in the pickup bed might give an extreme angle to the cable? ... and stored in a dry place(shed) to protect it from weather when not in use?
Just thought I would throw that out for consideration.


JD -I am devising a way to mount it high on the top of the truck bed towards the cab, thereby decreasing the angle, and make it removable. As for scratching up the bed, no big deal...this is a 'truck' to me, I take care of it but a scratch inside the bed is no biggie...I am gonna put bedliner in it this summer... Now scratch the BMW an we could fight! lol




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