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Trailer Ramps- Aluminum


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#1 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 02:17 PM

Attached File  Doc1.doc   585KB   72 downloadsWith the new trailer I just bought, I want the option of being able to take the gate off and use ramps in its place....I am wanting to the ramps to be 6.4' or so long so they can be place in the back of the trailer an used as a rear railing to keep anything from sliding off......my thoughts right now are 2 ramps that could be side by side. I saw these 'ramps' that look like grates to me........dimensions are about 14" wide and about 1 5/8 thick.........right now they are 10 ft long....but I was going to cut them down to the size I needed......
Thought about notching the bottom top part of the ramp so it would "stay" when driving up the ramp......

Grates will let air pass through so not as much of a drag on a long trip right???

I can buy these 2 grates/ramps for $250......

What do you think???


sorry I had to post it in a document form......could not figure out how to save it a picture so copied it to a word document.

Edited by sacsr, February 20, 2012 - 02:20 PM.


#2 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 04:32 PM

I would not reccomend those ramps. They don't look like they would give you good traction. The rails running the length of the ramp are likely to work like runners. I used to use 2X6 or 2x10 ramps and when you get to the top of the ramp and slide back down them backwards due to wet ramps or tires. Well lets just say they have a High Pucker Factor! With the 2X10's I wound up putting metal lath on them.

Edited by JD DANNELS, February 20, 2012 - 04:35 PM.

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#3 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 04:37 PM

Just picturing what you're talking about in my mind. If you're loading things weighing around 1500 pounds or less, like a garden tractor, you can probably make or have some made for a lot less than $250.00. I've loaded cars on my flatbed trailer using ramps made of 2"x2"x1/4" angle iron so you can probably get by with 1 1/2" x 1/12" x 1/4 inch angle iron topped with 14ga. expanded metal. If you don't have the equipment to build them, check with a local welding shop. Just my two cents worth. Good luck.

OK, just downloaded the doc. and saw what you were talking about. That material is used for grating for water drainage. You could just go ramps at Sears or some place and cut them down also.

Edited by tinner, February 20, 2012 - 04:41 PM.

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#4 Guest_tgguy1122_*

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 05:55 PM

ive never bought a set of ramps and i never plan on it. i use warped 2x12's i get for free or cheap from contractors who cant use them. clamp them down really tight to 2x4's for a week or 2 and the warping seems to get better. then i use 3 inch screws to hold them to the 2x4's. has never failed yet and i make sets for many people.

Edited by tgguy1122, February 20, 2012 - 06:01 PM.

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#5 Guest_tgguy1122_*

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 06:02 PM

heres a basic concept of the ramps i use.

Attached Thumbnails

  • ramps.png

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#6 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 06:04 PM

Mine and most new trailers have a fairly large rear gate that swings up/down, is full width, grating on them (expanded metal) and pretty hard to fall off anywhere when unloading/loading. They aren't made from too heavy of framing and you don't need a fancy hinge or anything. Mine also lays flat when empty if you don't like the "drag" it might have. Too short of rams makes "bottoming out" on the decks of many tractors and is not fun. The arched kind help eliminate that problem.
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#7 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 06:59 PM

I have got the large gate....but mine will not fold into the trailer.......I am currently using 2 x 12 as well and they have worked well for me...may just stay with them......just like the idea of being able to use them at the rear of the trailer as a back stop and then pull them out and use them as my ramps.....the 2x4 on the back is a good idea.....pulling the bushhog off the trailer this evening....those 2 x 12 were sagging pretty bad .....can't imagine what it would have looked like if I had been riding it!!

#8 wvbuzzmaster ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 07:44 PM

Ramps, my specialty, ok, mabey not but still lol. I have made several ramps and bought a couple ramps over the last few years though. I can say this, I have never built a ramp out of steel grate, too awkward. If you want a cheap alternative to your large ramp, cut it in half (make it shorter length) and then weld new angle irons to each half and a pile of hinges to make the make the ramp fold one time. Hinged on the bottom though, then your ramp fold out and down, perfect.
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#9 lyall OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 09:41 PM

Like Casey said you can cut them in half, but I would weld pipe on the sides of them. weld a larger pipe on both side of the grate and both ends of each grate. use a smaller pipe that goes into the lager pipe. put a cap or bolt in one end of the smaller pipes, them slide them thought the larger pipe. make sure that the capped end in on the high side, so it does not slide out when you are using them.

I wish I had steel grates for my ramps. when you have muddy wheels or chains on they will not slide on the grates like they will on wood or smooth steel.

keep the ramps as long as you can - will make it easier to load on a pickup and your tractor will not flip on you (safety first)
I am using 2x12 - 12' with old bed frames on both sides on the 2x12 - top and bottom and bolted them together.

good luck and be safe
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#10 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2012 - 10:34 PM

I got to thinking we might be sounding a bit critical. But Ramps can be dangerous if reasonable caution is not used. I bet everyone who has posted here has had a close call.
Go down to the Feature Tractor of the month thread for March. And page down to MotoBreeders post.
He posted pictures of what can happen in the event of a ramp accident. And was very fortunated that steering wheel did not punch his son in the chest.
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#11 Reverend Blair ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2012 - 06:53 PM

I got to thinking we might be sounding a bit critical. But Ramps can be dangerous if reasonable caution is not used. I bet everyone who has posted here has had a close call.
Go down to the Feature Tractor of the month thread for March. And page down to MotoBreeders post.
He posted pictures of what can happen in the event of a ramp accident. And was very fortunated that steering wheel did not punch his son in the chest.


Yeah, I've had my close calls. That's why I use the "Back Into the Ditch" method whenever possible. Ditches never slip and never suddenly collapse. Not everybody has friendly ditches though and the word for being in the ditch when it's muddy or snowy is "stuck", so it's not always practical.

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Posted February 23, 2012 - 07:00 PM

how come i always hear bad stories about ramps? ive never had one bad experience with ramps. i drop em on the the tailgate drive or push something on or off with relative ease.and i figured out my ramps r 7' or so.

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Posted February 23, 2012 - 07:00 PM

and my trucks got 4 inch lift on it =)

#14 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 01:31 PM

I've had my scares. And had a front row seat when my father in law took a WD45 steering wheel full in the chest when it flipped over backwards on top of him. Broke every rib in two places and spent two months in the hospital(He never was the same after). Something I hope to never experience again. Even a little old GT can hurt you. I feel a responsibility to warn others to be cautious and wise.

#15 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 09:12 PM

Going up ramps and when the front wheels drive off of the ramps just pop the clutch or shove the hydro ahead and you'll have more trouble than you'd ever wanted. Same thing can happen backing down with just the rear wheels on the ramps and you try changing directions in a hurry. This is more likely to occur if your driving a tractor or 4 wheeler your not comfortable with.
Been there and done that. :huh:




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