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Jd 455 Snow Plow(Front) Blade Is Kind Of Loose?


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#1 zolt OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2012 - 11:37 PM

Hello,
just interested in finding out what would cause the plow blade to move from a slight angle to a really steep angle when pushing snow....
both up and down as well as angle adjustments are controlled by hydraulic cylinders....
just guessing, are the 'valves' in cylinder gone, or the valve controlling fluid to deck height adjustment is open?
or? or?......once again, any help or advice is appreciated
on the good side of things, does this thing ever push snow nice----almost makes me want to just get out there and play in the snow--lol

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2012 - 06:25 AM

Sounds like the valve that isolates the deck lift could be open. When you push hard on something the fluid gets moved from the blade angle cylinder into the deck cylinder until it reaches a stop. Try the valve to make sure it is closed.

#3 Tmo OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2012 - 06:44 AM

I agree with Brian. There should be a shut off valve underneath the left fender deck. Check to be sure it's closed. Also, that valve was part of the quick hitch kit and should have came with the hitch. Be sure it's actually there, if not there will be a tee instead. The valve is about $110 from Deere.

#4 zolt OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2012 - 12:53 PM

thank you very much,
i will look at that and pray that it is not just a tee----

#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2012 - 02:32 PM

I think the correct term in JD talk is a diverter valve. I had one on my x475 and that's how it would act when the valve was left open. This illustrates the advantage of 3 hydraulic circuits which the older tractors such as the 140H3 had.
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#6 sgtrock1976 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2012 - 06:00 PM

How do you determine if it's the valve or the cylinder? If it's the valve, do you just replace or is there a fix?

#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2012 - 07:23 PM

Unless the cylinder is leaking fluid it's probably OK. If there isn't a diverter valve the only other option would be to mechanically block the deck lift cylinder from working. This was an option on some machines with a rod or link you could purchase from JD to do the job. Sometimes you can make the part yourself. I'm not sure if it's an option on the 445. If anyone else has an answer please jump in.

#8 zolt OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 01:21 PM

do you mean , a rod that would jam the deck mechanism, so it would stay in the up-or down-, position?
and, back to the previous comment about how do you know if it is not the cylinder------- theoretically, i should be able to force the blade left and right, without the use of the lever, of course, and i should be able to observe the deck mechanism go up and down----is this correct?

#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 05:33 PM

do you mean , a rod that would jam the deck mechanism, so it would stay in the up-or down-, position?
and, back to the previous comment about how do you know if it is not the cylinder------- theoretically, i should be able to force the blade left and right, without the use of the lever, of course, and i should be able to observe the deck mechanism go up and down----is this correct?


Yes, a rod or lever that would prevent the cylinder from moving. You could put a strong metal strap from the linkage to a really solid mount somewhere. I stress really solid. If you can move the blade by hand you should be able to see the deck cylinder move, providing it's not against the stop, if that is what is going on. I'll take a look at the JDParts site and see if I can find the diverter valve or any reference to stopping the cylinder from moving.

#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 05:54 PM

OK, heres a picture of the lift mechanism. You could try to put 2 straps across the cylinder. I think the pins will be 1/2". If there is room you could get 2 longer pins or 1/2" hardened bolts/nuts and cut 2 straps say 1/4 thick x 1.5" w and with 1/2" holes the correct length to stop the cylinder from moving. Try to have the cylinder all the way in. That way the force will be pulling on the straps and they are very strong in tension. Take out the old pins and install the longer ones with 1 strap on each side of the cylinder. Not sure if there is room to try this but by looking at the diagram that is what I'd try. There may be other options once you get a good look at it.


MP13963________UN24JAN95.gif
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#11 zolt OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2012 - 01:48 AM

thanks,
i'll have to take a look under the 455, first to see if indeed this cyl. is moving, then tif so, to see how difficult/easy it is to do 'the straps',
thanks brian,
zolt

#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2012 - 03:29 PM

The one caveat is that you need to judge for yourself if this setup is strong enough to do the job. If the straps are too far from the tangs that support the pins there is a chance that you could bend the pins. Without seeing it myself I cannot judge that. Good luck with it.




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