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Rear Mount Tiller Recondition - Rebuild

tiller bearing gasket seal rebuild simplicity

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17 replies to this topic

#1 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2012 - 09:24 PM

Hi everyone :wave: Thought I would post up on my tiller rebuild from a few years back.
This was done back in 2009. I had to use the copies of the pictures from where I had originally posted this so they are not the best, but this may help someone decide to tear in to their tiller.
This is a Simplicity unit but I have seen a Ford mounted tiller that looked real similar so I thought I would put this in the implement forum. OK here goes.

I got a tiller in with a trade on some other stuff and the second time I used the shafts got real squirrely. As the bolts on the tine shaft bearings on the tiller could not be tightened I did a tear-down and repair. The bolts were originally threaded into the plate from the outside around the tine shaft with locknuts on the inside. All of the threaded holes were pretty well stripped so I decided to drill through the plate and weld the bolts in place. I did end up using grade 5 bolts, there were no marks on the original bolts but the bolts used at the top bearing plates were grade 5.tillerweldedbolts.JPG

This will also let me change the bearings from the outside if I ever need to in the future.

tillerbackofplate.JPG
Tacked in place

Ordered new bearings (which turned out to be another story) and gasket plus the felt washers and was already to start. Ended up getting new chain too.
I put the tine shaft and the drive shaft through their mounting plates, added the felt washers, and set the shafts in place on the left side of the case. I then pushed the bearings over the shafts, tightened the mounting bolts, and lightly set the locking collars and set screws. I put the bolts into the center two gear sets from the bottom to hold them tight and in place. I then used a framing square held tight across the top of the drive shaft gear and larger of the two gears, loosened the set screws and locking collars and adjusted the driveshaft height until I had the same measurement on each side from the square to the case.

tillersetdriveshaft.JPG

Then did the same with the height of the tine shaft.

tillersettineshaft.JPG

After putting on the old chains and giving the works a few spins I was sure the one of the chains would slip off half way through the first tilling job. So back off they came and I bought new chains the next day. Got the new chains on and started to grease the works up.

tillerstartgrease.JPG

I ended up putting three tubes of grease in the case before it looked mostly full.

New gasket with a thin layer of RTV top and bottom. Put the mounting plates and felt washers on the right side and put the two halves together. Tightened up all of the housing bolts first then I pushed the other bearings on, checked to make sure the shafts were still square with the case and tightened all of the bearing bolts.

tillelrgreasedwithgasket.JPG tillerclosedup.JPG


Now I just needed to paint the bolts and nuts on the case before I put the shrouds and the hitch back on. The milk crate seems to be just right for this project.

tillercrateworksgreat.JPG

I finished painting on a Saturday afternoon. Reassembled and photos were done on a Sunday morning. As I am color blind please forgive my color choice, looks pretty close to me, cans were on sale, Valspar International Harvestor white and Gloss black, used a can of spray on bedliner on the underside of the shrouds, thought this might last longer than paint, will see after I use it several times. (and as a matter of fact it is still in pretty good shape.

tillerasbought1.jpg
The Before Beauty Shot

tillerdone3.JPG tillerdone1.JPG tillerdone2.JPG

I do wish I would have welded the holes shut that a PO had cut through the shroud before painting, that and I could have straightened the shroud out some too but I did not think about that until it was all back together. But as cosmetics are not quite as important as function it will probably stay as is for a while now.
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#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2012 - 09:32 PM

Greg, you sure did a good job on that tiller drive! And as far as that hole is concerned, once you drop her into the dirt & get all dusty, it won't bother you one bit!
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#3 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2012 - 09:37 PM

Nice job on that Tiller drive unit! Looks great! Thanks for the pics.
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#4 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2012 - 09:38 PM

Wow that looks great. I would be scared to use it, it looks to nice to get dirty.
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#5 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2012 - 09:44 PM

Came out great, thanks for the info and pic's to follow,
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#6 daytime dave ONLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2012 - 10:32 PM

Looks like a fine job. It'll look better after a few passes in a field.
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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2012 - 07:00 AM

Great job, Greg. That looks very similar to the tiller for my Ford, except it is shaft driven instead of belt. Bet they are cousins.
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#8 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2012 - 07:26 AM

Attention to detail and clean working conditions always pay off. Nice re-do on the tiller. Easy to follow photos too :thumbs:
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#9 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2012 - 10:09 AM

Great job Greg. I have a tiller like that and am going to add a 8hp Kohler Magnum to it for power. Already made the 3 point adaptor to fit my tractors. Can you tell me the speed the tiller turns so I can figure out the correct size pulleys?
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#10 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2012 - 08:49 PM

Great job Greg. I have a tiller like that and am going to add a 8hp Kohler Magnum to it for power. Already made the 3 point adaptor to fit my tractors. Can you tell me the speed the tiller turns so I can figure out the correct size pulleys?


I am not sure how fast it goes, I could measure the drive and driven pulley if that would help. I know the gear box is at a 1:1 ratio from the engine (which could be anything from a 10 HP up) to the drive pulley and maxes at 3200 RPM (I think would have to double-check that max RPM). Can do that this weekend for you if it will help.
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#11 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2012 - 11:58 PM

Thanks, all of that would help me a bunch. I've thought about making it the same speed as my Troybuilt Horse tiller which should work or even a little faster.

PS: Will be on the road for a couple of days so there's no big hurry.

Edited by tinner, February 17, 2012 - 12:00 AM.


#12 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2012 - 07:25 PM

Can you tell me the speed the tiller turns so I can figure out the correct size pulleys?


I believe the Simplicity tillers were made to operate at around 200 rpm tine speed at 3600 rpm engine speed. The 32" tiller, according to Allis-Chalmers specification sheet OPE-1017 of March '67, listed a tine speed of 175 rpm at engine speed 3000 rpm. Also the 48" tiller had a tine speed up to 200 rpm according to Dealer Service Information, 720 Series Tractors.

A discussion on tiller rpm:

http://gardentractor...481-tiller-rpm/
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#13 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2012 - 09:00 PM

Thanks, all of that would help me a bunch. I've thought about making it the same speed as my Troybuilt Horse tiller which should work or even a little faster.

PS: Will be on the road for a couple of days so there's no big hurry.


The drive pulley on the tractor (Bevel gear box) is 4.5 inch and the driven pulley on the tiller is 9 inches. Thanks for all the compliments everyone, I have used the tiller many times since the pictures above. Heres one from this fall, see the dirt that comes through the holes cut in the shroud?

Posted Image

Posted Image

Does a good job
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#14 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2012 - 06:45 AM

Greg,thanks for sharing that with us.
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#15 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2012 - 07:08 AM

Thanks for the good write-up and pictures on your tiller rebuild. Also thanks for uploading the Simplicity Repair Manual for Tractor Mounted Tillers to the manuals section.
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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: tiller, bearing, gasket, seal, rebuild, simplicity