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Building a homemade tractor


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#61 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2011 - 07:37 AM

This thing looks like a beast. Thats what youre calling it... the beast?


DITTO,it does look like a beast,and I'm sure it will be .

#62 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2011 - 04:36 PM

Maybe, i have to see how it performs first...

#63 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2011 - 04:45 AM

Nice progress, Alex. It will be a "Beast"!!! That rear end setup looks tough as all get out!

I hope you are going to build a heavier front axle and support structure to match the rear end for it before you put on the loader.

#64 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2011 - 05:46 PM

Yes, I am. When the drive is built I'm going to get a better setup made out of some ranger i-beams from the junkyard.

#65 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2011 - 10:01 PM

I like it. Just needs some bigger tires and you'll be all set. HAHAHA!

#66 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 05:32 PM

i figured i might start planning mthe cosmetics of the tractor while im working on getting the other parts. So, does anyone have any recomendations for a grille design? It will be something that i make from scratch but likely based on something production made.

#67 tractorgarden OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2011 - 12:01 PM

Nice job, keep up the good work, with the F. E. L. it should prove to be a real work horse.

#68 jhn9840 ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 10:37 AM

Just found this thread. That is going to be one hard working tractor when you get done. Great fabricating work. Be keeping an eye on this one from now on.

jhn9840
John

#69 Deck_Drive OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 03:25 PM

How about an old farmall grill? Like what they used on the old Hs

#70 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2011 - 07:56 PM

how about something like this?
http://pictures.dead...ots_logo_sm.jpg

#71 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2011 - 06:04 PM

Alrighty then, i guess its time for some new info on this build. I got the axle cut down and welded up. Thats welded to the frame, and the frame has been doubled up so it is like a channel iron. I made an axle pivot and a temporary axle until i get some i-beams out of a ranger. I also got a 4 speed tranny out of a truck mounted in it. Then i added a steering box out of a towncar to run the steering. Now im ordering some hydrualic parts to start getting those in place. Pictures are to come when i get back from vacation.

#72 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 08:40 PM

After looking at the Onan, and having it not run for me, i decided i really wanted a diesel more than the Onan. So my grandfather paid for a pair of diesels, one of which is destined for this. Yesterday, after it sat on a pallet for a week, i fabbed up some mounts, and got it bolted down and running. Next it needs an adapter for the flywheel to run the drive pump, a permanent fuel tank, and a radiator. Pics are to come, i hope...

#73 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 09:20 PM

Sounds good, hope to see pics of the fab and vid of the maiden voyage.

#74 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2011 - 02:24 PM

Alex, in response to your email question:

"Will these parts work together properly to power my tractor when they are powered by a 16 hp diesel engine?
motor- https://www.surplusc...tname=hydraulic
pump- https://www.surplusc...tname=hydraulic
valve- https://www.surplusc...tname=hydraulic
Thanks, Alex"


You have been busy. Now you have a diesel for your prime mover. Bonus!

The pump and motor you selected should do the job just fine. I'll suggest that you use the flow control with 1/2" ports instead of 3/4" ports. It's flow capability matches the rest of the components, it will save a few dollars worth of fittings and the control of the flow will be a little more precise. I'm assuming that the diesel makes its 16 hp at 3000 rpm or less. Over 3000 rpm and the pump will be maxed out and the rest of the components will be on shaky ground.

The circuitry for this part of the system will be:

Pump --> Flow Control --> Directional Valve (<==> Motor) --> Tank.

You will need a directional valve with detents to hold the spool in place for using the work ports.

A point for you to ponder. The frame on the MF12 is argueably as strong or stronger than the frame on your build. I broke the frame on my MF12H using a loader. The back wheels keep pushing when the bucket has stopped in the dirt pile, then the frame buckles. Your front axle support has to be strong enough to carry almost double the tractor weight and you will need a strong loader subframe running from the rear axle to that front axle support to adequately support the loader and to prevent the same thing from happening with your build.

Keep up the great work! It's starting to look like a real tractor.



#75 greg86ss OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2011 - 08:52 PM

Looks like a lot of head scratching. Good luck!




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