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Kohler K341, with broken rod


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#1 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 06:28 PM

I was given 2 K341 engines as part of a deal, last summer.
I thought I should get 1, or both going.
I'm not much of an enine guy, so pease bear with me.
The aluminum from the rod, is nicely smeared onto the crank.
Can this be removed? How? what else needs to be done to make it
usable?

Thanks

#2 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 06:46 PM

Muriatic acid will remove the aluminum. Remove the crank from the engine, then take it outside to strip the aluminum. Brush the acid on full strength. It will give off a noxious gas that will hurt you, so be sure not to breathe in any of the fumes. When it stops foaming, rinse with water, then repeat. Do this cycle until all aluminum is removed. Then dress the journal with very fine emery cloth, then check with micrometer to see if the journal is within spec. The acid will not harm the steel, but will attack any soft non-ferrous metals.
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#3 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 06:47 PM

The aluminum from the rod, is nicely smeared onto the crank.
Can this be removed? How?
Thanks


Although I have done done it personally, many guys have said the aluminum can be removed with muriatic acid (found in Home Depot, Lowes, plumbing supplies, pool supplies,etc).

In our shop, we would use fine emery cloth to remove all traces of aluminum, then polish the crankshaft journal with crocus cloth ( a super-fine abrasive).

Small grooves or pits (depressions) in the crankshaft will not cause further damage, as long as the edges are smooth. ....If there is any raised portion of the crankshaft, it will score a new connecting rod.
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#4 Enginerod OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 07:19 PM

Drano will remove the aluminum from the crank, just brush or pour it on and leave it for a while. It will turn grayish/foamy then wipe it off, you may have to repeat several times. I usually finish up with fine scotch brite pad or emery cloth.
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#5 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 07:25 PM

Drano will remove the aluminum from the crank, just brush or pour it on and leave it for a while. It will turn grayish/foamy then wipe it off, you may have to repeat several times. I usually finish up with fine scotch brite pad or emery cloth.


Thanks. Your name sure suits the thread.

#6 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 07:29 PM

Muriatic acid will remove the aluminum. Remove the crank from the engine, then take it outside to strip the aluminum. Brush the acid on full strength. It will give off a noxious gas that will hurt you, so be sure not to breathe in any of the fumes. When it stops foaming, rinse with water, then repeat. Do this cycle until all aluminum is removed. Then dress the journal with very fine emery cloth, then check with micrometer to see if the journal is within spec. The acid will not harm the steel, but will attack any soft non-ferrous metals.



Thanks, I'll try this. Specs should be in the service manual, right? Which I have, but just haven't looked at yet.

#7 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 07:53 PM

Look on page 8 of the service manual for the specs. Good luck with it.
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#8 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 08:21 PM

How does the oil get to the rod bearing on that engine? Is it positive pressure?

Make sure all oil paths are clear if it is.

#9 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 10:03 PM

Ok ...I've seen all the muratic acid stuff and I also know Lye works...but I've not heard anyone recommend 'cooking off' the hydrocarbons generated by the acid on the metal...after you've removed any trace elements of the aluminum from the crank with either the lye or the muratic acid then you must rinse it thoroughly, and dry it. Let it sit for an hour or so....then Put it in a preheated oven at 350F for 1 hour, once the hour is up turn off the oven and let it 'slowly' cool inside the oven, again you may have to wait one hour or longer. Once it is cool then you are good to go...cooking off the hydrocarbons is important and will make the whole assembly last longer.

Oh one bit that I hadn't seen is get a tube of PVC (large enough to stick the crank in) from Lowes or Home depot, then cap one end put the crank in it then add the muratic acid until the affected journal is covered...and put a snug cap over the other end, don't glue both ends on...then after a few hours in the acid the aluminum will just 'flake' off the crank or be completely gone..then you can pour the unused acid back into its container with a funnel of course.

RUBBER GLOVES, GOGGLES (not safety glasses). and Respirator are NOT OPTIONAL make sure the area is well ventilated and protected from being knocked over. The acid is very strong stuff and could ruin your day if it it gets on your skin or you breathe the fumes (also protect your kids and pets)...so BE CAREFUL!!! be ready for the rinse and cook off when it is done...

Good Luck
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#10 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 10:10 PM

Alan, The K-341 uses splash oil lubracation on the rod, well actually all the moving parts.

#11 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2012 - 01:03 AM

How does the oil get to the rod bearing on that engine? Is it positive pressure?

Make sure all oil paths are clear if it is.


Like Brian said the splashing action from the dipper on the bottom of the rod throws oil all in the crankcase. That is why it is important to set the idle higher than the engines slowest possible speed and to use thin oil in the winter
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#12 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2012 - 08:07 AM

Thanks guys, the Kohlers are kinda unknown to me.

#13 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2012 - 05:34 AM

Things got cleaned up real nice with the muratic acid.

Thanks for the help.




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