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Gas Tank Electrolysis


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#1 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 08:17 PM

I have been wanting to try this for months, but one thing drives out another. I finally had the perfect candidate. The gas tank from my scrap save Sears Suburban 10. When i dumped it out, there was large scale that came out. Some pieces had to be broken to fit thru the fill hole. Rather obvious that this unit needed some cleaning.

I figured I didn't have much to lose, it had been patched once before, and it may be weeks before & can strap it to my wheel and drive long enough for some nuts to do much good. Before I submerged it in the electrolysis tank I found an old funnel that a junk 3/8 bolt would fit thru snugly. I then taped it to the tank so that the funnel insulated the electrode from the gas tank and didn't have any chance of touching.

Gas Tank.jpg

Red to the electrode, black to the brass fitting underneath. Ran it a few minutes here & there when I could, Didn't want to leave it unsupervised just in case. Probably ran it a total of 2 hrs give or take.

The sludge that came out was amazing. Yech! Bolt is pretty rusted up now too. I put in a bunch of hardware and shook it. Looked like ashes in it. Then filled it with water and shook some more. Black water. Repeated the process until the water was clear and got the hardware out. It looks pretty good in there, what little I can see. WARNING: the paint on the outside will be affected by the process as well. Mainly on the top of the tank. DO NOT do this to one you are trying to keep in original condition. No big deal if you're needing to repaint it anyways.

Things to watch for: Make sure your funnel has ridges on the outside or put something between it and the fill hole to let out any Hydrogen gas that may build up. Also, have a slight upward to the tank, with the fill being the highest point. This lets the whole tank be in contact with the water and best able to get the benefit of the electrolysis. You want the tank submerged the whole time.

Is it easier than the nuts in the tank & strapped to a wheel?
I don't know, but I think it took less of my time this way, especially when I haven't been able to find an excuse to be on the tractor and the e-tank was all set up anyways..

Edited by MH81, February 02, 2012 - 08:22 PM.

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#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 08:24 PM

Sounds like a winning application, and I figured it would be, but hadn't ever tried it....yet! Glad it worked well for you Alan.

#3 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 08:35 PM

Alan, Doing it that way, why would you even have to submerge it at all. Could you just set it on the work bench and let it do it's thing?

#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 08:50 PM

Alan, Doing it that way, why would you even have to submerge it at all. Could you just set it on the work bench and let it do it's thing?


Yes, but the water level would go down & not clean the top. By having it submerged, the "bubbles" get out & new e-solution gets in.

#5 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 08:58 PM

OK, that is why I am asking. Thanks

#6 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 09:07 PM

I've never tried the electrolysis...however I have tried the POR l ine of products and they work...and along these lines they make a Gas tank repair kit...which may be worthwhile? Fuel System Restoration-POR-15 Inc. not sure if it aplies...
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#7 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 09:12 PM

Jim, Thanks for sharing that. I have used a similar product on a friend of mine old Jeep gas tank. It works very well...

#8 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 09:21 PM

If everything works out on this tractor, I would like to coat the tank to keep it good.

I've used POR products before, good stuff.
Some members have used keem products & swear by them too. Think maybe I'll try that this time to see how well it works.

#9 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 09:33 PM

Good to hear Alan, I need to pull the gas tank off my Custom 6 and clean it out. Think I'll try what you did.

#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 10:14 PM

Managed to get a small mirror in there. The closer you get to the fill ( where the electrode was), the better it looks. Honestly, i kind of expected this, but it was a trial run. I think I'll put it in for a few more hours tomorrow and see what happens. Maybe make a bent electrode to go further into the tank.

#11 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 10:46 PM

Good idea.
The bent electrode idea is good, just don't let it touch the tank. Maybe slip a stub of hose over the end, just in case.

#12 rokon1650 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 11:31 PM

Good idea.
The bent electrode idea is good, just don't let it touch the tank. Maybe slip a stub of hose over the end, just in case.


Maybe a rubber stopper with a slightly undersized hole to hold the anode, and another, smaller hole to vent the gas?

#13 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2012 - 12:14 AM

Great idea. As these tractors get older it's getting harder and harder to find nice original tanks.
Thanks for the post.

#14 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2012 - 07:41 AM

Allen is spot on the junk coming out is amazing. I did the same last week to my MF12 tank. The neck was small, so I used an old piece of fuel line to insulate the anode (+) from the tank. I wanted any hydrogen fumes to have a open exit. The little wood clamp fastens the hose tightly to the neck to keep the wire firm. Also "ditto" to "staying with it". Mine was done in under an hour.

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Edited by Toolpartzman, February 03, 2012 - 08:00 AM.

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#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2012 - 08:05 AM

Just wondering how often you had to top it off?
I wanted to get the whole inside as mine was rusty all the way around, how was yours on the top?




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