ballance tractor and snowblower
Posted January 29, 2012 - 06:32 PM
the problem is the steering/or lack of
with the blower down there is very little movement required before the wheels turn sideways and start to plow
I have a 150#weight box off the rear 225# driver
with the blower raised or partialy lifted steering returns
should I remove some weight from the box or add weight to the blower or frame or front wheel weights (if they make them 8")
thanks for any insite you might have
Posted January 30, 2012 - 02:47 AM
Hang about 40 or 50 lb on the front to balance the weight box out back. The operators position is directly over the axle or slightly ahead so that doesn't really have a negative effect on steering. You really don't want to remove rear end weight unless you can put it in the tires, then the steering problem will go away, for the most part, without adding front weights.
My ballasting proceedure:
1. Load the rear tires, preferrably with RimGuard for max weight.
2. Add wheel weights as required.
3. Add 2-link tire chains.
4. If necessary, add some weight to the rear of the tractor. How much depends on the axle capacity and the need.
5. If steering becomes iffy due to counter weight added to the rear of the tractor frame, add 25 - 50% of the rear counter weight, not the added tire weight, to the front of the frame.
Most GTs will work well for blowing by step 2 for traction in snow and step 3 for ice. Local conditions may require the last 2 steps. The first 2 steps have the added advantage of improving stability for summer operation without adding to the tractors gross weight in a detrimental manner. There are lots of GT's out there with no added weight that are considerably heavier than yours will be with added weight..
Cast 8" wheel weights show up on ebay periodically and can be pricey. I got mine off of CL for about a quarter the eBay prices.
Just found a set on ebay.
Edited by TUDOR, January 30, 2012 - 05:08 AM.
Posted January 30, 2012 - 05:11 AM
Posted January 30, 2012 - 05:44 AM
Posted January 30, 2012 - 08:21 AM
Obviously, you want the blower to stay on the ground while using it, but any weight beyond that can be transferred back to the front wheels.
Posted January 30, 2012 - 08:36 AM
You need to use springs from the lift frame to blower, this will make the blower act as counterweight for steering . The reason it won't turn is the ground resistance from the blowers skids. Add 2 decent sized springs and not only will they help lift it, they will give you steering! Also help the skids to last longer too
Never thought of that. I guess, maybe, because I used to take the skids off the blower after the second snowfall so that I could keep the driveway planed flat with the cutting edge for the rest of the winter.
Needed full blower weight for that.
Posted February 06, 2012 - 07:08 AM
My question now is; the rear axle is hydro I believe it is the model below (2009 Sears/AYP/Husqvarna GT5000 28Hp Briggs 54" cut)
Made by hydro gear model 730
I was advised previously not to load the tires or use wheel weights as a hydro has to slip to avoid damage to the transaxle
your insite on this would be appreciated
Posted February 07, 2012 - 05:16 PM
Loading tires increases traction and stability. There is a very slight increase in torque requirements for starting and stopping, and hill climbing demands more torque as the grade and weight are increased. The hydro relief pressure valve protects the hydro from overloads and increaseed traction will only overload the hydro at lower throttle settings on dirt or going up steep hills.
The difference in weight, and therefore torque requirements, for most GT's, will be similar to the weight difference between most middle aged adult males and a young teenage girl.
Load the tires, if not for increase traction, then for increased stability and safety when mowing the ditch.
Posted February 07, 2012 - 08:01 PM
In a previous post ypu mentioned filling the tires with RimGuard
where would I find this and have it installed?
Posted February 08, 2012 - 01:29 AM
It weighs in the vicinity of 11 lb per gallon, about the same as a calcium chloride solution that rusts rims, as opposed to plunbing antifreeze or windshield washer antifreeze at about 8 lb per gallon. That doesn't sound like much difference, until you realize that I filled my new tires with AgriLim which weighs about the same as wwf (101 -109 lb) and compared that to what my tires with calcium contained (160 - 162 lb), or a difference of a set of JD cast iron wheel weights at 53 lb each. That was in 26x12-12 turf tires on my FEL equiped MF1655. I also had it pumped in, not poured through the bead.
The recommended fill level is 75%, about the level of the bead area at the top of the rim. I get mine filled an inch or so higher.
Unfortunately, RimGuard is not available in Canada and I have to take my tires to Michigan to get them filled. That's okay. The dealer gets to deal with the mess and I just need to muscle 200 lb tires back into the truck and onto the tractor when I get them home.