real early MF10, what else is different vs. later models?
Posted May 30, 2010 - 12:33 PM
Posted May 30, 2010 - 01:07 PM
Posted May 30, 2010 - 04:16 PM
- Different shaped tab on clutch/brake pedal (engaging with brake rod loop)
- Different brake lever arrangement to pull the brake band
- Different shape to implement drive clutch pedal (no slot in later models)
- Different (thinner) front drive belt cover
The aluminium cowl gives rise to some other small differences but it's hard to see what. There are also quite a few small changes noted in the parts lists that seem to make no difference to the illustrations, but they must mean something.
According to the book, there is no difference in the running board, maybe any change came after 1967?
It's a bit like playing that game "spot the difference", but the parts book is one thing - it would be nicer to see photos.
Posted May 30, 2010 - 09:22 PM
Posted May 30, 2010 - 09:26 PM
If I am remembering correctly didn't the very first ones not have a reinforcement plate welded under the frame where it steps up? I don't know when they added that plate.
Yes that's right 66s have no center rib. My 67 MF12Hydra has it.
Posted May 30, 2010 - 10:19 PM
Mine has the optional narrow rims/tires as well.
Posted May 31, 2010 - 10:08 AM
Posted May 31, 2010 - 01:56 PM
Well, I'm headed out on a short vacation Thursday morning to deliver the MF710 snowblower I sold and on the way to my friends house, I'm picking up a MF10 that is pretty complete, the serial number is pre-1000 !
Have a safe trip and we want pictures of your new tractor!
Posted June 08, 2010 - 11:44 PM
I then drove to Brainerd, MN where I acquired a very complete and original 1966 MF10. The serial numbers are very low, tractor #959 and snowblower #516. The rear wheels are rotting off of it from calcium no doubt, but it is in very good shape. I had some time to do some finishing near Blackduck, MN and spend some time with friends. Hopefully someday I will make the journey North and not have to come home.
Pulltilbroke came over tonight and helped me unload the early MF10. We then pulled it out back. I didn't have time for pictures tonight, but the wife took one on the way home yesterday that will have to hold you all over till tomorrow... I'll bet nobody can even guess where this picture was taken, no it isn't Milwaukee.
Edited by MF10 DIESEL, June 09, 2010 - 12:05 AM.
Posted June 09, 2010 - 01:24 AM
Posted June 09, 2010 - 11:13 PM
Posted June 09, 2010 - 11:21 PM
I'm gonna guess...near Brainard? Maybe Iowa? Well - we're hanging on a thread! Did you take Hwy 15? If so, you should've stopped in for some Massey talk! My 10 is a '66, serial number 3920 I think from memory. They could have shared a moment.
No dice on the whereabouts of the first picture, but it was closer too you then you may think. I took HWY 75 to HWY 59 in your neck of the woods.
Edited by MF10 DIESEL, June 09, 2010 - 11:26 PM.
Posted June 10, 2010 - 11:59 AM
Posted November 02, 2012 - 09:49 PM
Yesterday I backed the MF10 diesel into the shed and loped a tow chain on old 959 and brought it out into the sun. What brought this tractor to a hualt may years back turns out to be no spark.
Today I spent a little more serious time with it. It had a mess in the ignition, with an ATOM ignition taking over for the points, which had also failed or never worked. I bypassed evrything but the points, I put on an external coil and condenser from a chevy 350, but used tecumsehs points. But nothing happened on the spark test. I discovered that the coil would make spark if I controlled the coil manually without the points. That was very odd since the points were opening and closing when the engine cranked.
I pulled those points and found something the human eye can't see right off. When those points opened the meter should have shown O.L. on a conductivity test. Not the case, the screen started to vary as the points opened and then 5 ohms. So the primary winding of the coil would just charge forever and never collapse to send the magnetic field to the secondary winding. NO SPARKA! New points and a eyeball adjustment and we had spark. Further super close inspection revealed a partially melted insulating block and when the points opened the spring would ground out on the frame of the points.
Thank god I am an ASE master technician, a former employee of GM, Ford, and a former locomotive diesel mechanic for BNSF railway. Plenty of people tried to fix this before me and couldn't find it.
I shot a little carb cleaner into the engine and hit the starter. Magic has been restored, a cloud of black smoke, rust, and glowing embers shot out of the exhaust. For a few moments the 10G came back to life. I'm going to have to tear down the carb and a few other things before it will run on its own.
Edited by MF10 DIESEL, November 02, 2012 - 09:54 PM.