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MF 1655 Forward / Reverse Problems


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#1 Marshall OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 03:04 PM

I am just getting started fixing up this tractor - I already replaced the transmission drive belts and pulley. It was moving slower forward than in reverse, so I adjusted the pedal. Now the problem is worse. My question is, Should there be some limit on the rotation of the control lever on the hydro unit (Sundstrand)? I can rotate it so it points upward. Also, I can pull it out sideways until it hits the frame of the tractor. I am wondering if this is evidence that the internal pin is broken (as was touched on in another post)? Thanks!

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 03:14 PM

Oh my...sounds like the internal pins are broken or backed out. Not good, but fixable.

#3 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 03:39 PM

No biggy, but not good.

The roll pins that hold the swash plate to the trunnion shaft have worked themselves out. Remove and disassemble the hydro. Replace the worn pins with 2 pins the same length as the originals.

Reference pages 5 and 20 for an overview. They don't show the internals, but they're not difficult.

http://www.sauer-dan...re/bln-9646.pdf

The motor section is bolted to the pump section with 4 bolts. Split the 2 sections, remove the piston carrier, and the swash plate is next. You should be able to see the pin holes. The pins drive back into a dimple in the casting, one at a time, and can be then removed with needle nose pliers. Drive 2 new pins in flush, and put it back together. Check the pins on the other side.


It's an easy job and you have to work hard at it to screw up. You'll also have to re-adjust the control linkage when you put it back in. Removing and re-installing the hydro from/in the tractor is a lot more difficult. Use wood blocks to block the front axle against the frame and a hoist of some decription to lift the tractor while you roll out the rear end. You can pull just the hydro, but it takes a good supply of language.

Note the top of the motor section. If you inadvertantly put it together upside down, forward becomes reverse.

Edited by TUDOR, January 25, 2012 - 03:52 PM.


#4 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 03:43 PM

Like Tudor said, not that bad a deal. I've done several. But definitely do as he said by using the correct length roll pins. If you use longer than OE pins & ever need to take it apart again in the future, the longer pins cannot be driven out the back side due to not enough room for them to clear when driven down.

#5 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 03:59 PM

You remember that one, eh, Daniel?

#6 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 04:07 PM

You remember that one, eh, Daniel?


Thought ya got me huh Bob! :D No, I've never done it, but when studying the first one I ever took apart (no manual back then), I seen what a mess you'd be in if you did use a longer pin! When I don't have a manual, I always study "How it works", then "How to repair", then look for pitfalls. Now I'm not saying I've never fell into a deep pit when working on something (more times than I care to admit), just never a pin issue in these hydro's. :smile1:

#7 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 04:24 PM

Naw! I was referring to a thread on the other forum, a year or so back, where the poster couldn't understand why they used 2 short pins and used a longer pin, instead. If I recall, you, I, and someone else jumped on him as soon as he posted that.

#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 05:43 PM

Naw! I was referring to a thread on the other forum, a year or so back, where the poster couldn't understand why they used 2 short pins and used a longer pin, instead. If I recall, you, I, and someone else jumped on him as soon as he posted that.


:say_what: I've ate & slept since then! :D My memory evades me a lot! I vaguely recall something about that though. Yeah...it's coming back....but slowly!:smile1:

#9 Marshall OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 05:43 PM

Wow, I came back in from some other work and I find all your answers! Thanks much. That's not too bad of news. When I got it, the control was pointed up and the drive belts were so loose I can't figure out how the previous owner could have kept it moving. Also, the drive belt tensioner pivot is just a peg with no bolt or snap ring and the arm was slipping off. I clamped it and welded a washer on the end of the peg (which was flush with the arm) to hold it for now. The forward reverse problem is sort of ironic. I was thinking of making a foot pedal for my Cub Cadet, but decided I would be better off just getting a tractor that already had one. Anyway, it is an awesome garden tractor. I've never seen another large MF GT around here.

#10 Marshall OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 05:48 PM

Thanks much!

#11 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 05:57 PM

Thanks much!


Not a problem. When you get into this repair & need any help, just give a shout.

#12 Marshall OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 08:45 PM

It looks like it has universal tractor fluid in the hydro. Do you guys recommend Dextron?

Edited by Marshall, January 26, 2012 - 09:47 AM.
Newbie, thought my other one didn't post


#13 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2012 - 01:16 AM

You're welcome! Between olcowhand on days, me on nights, and a host of others with lots of experience on these critters, someone will be there for guidance.

#14 Marshall OFFLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2012 - 06:36 PM

I removed the hydro in the tractor by unbolting the engine and pulling it forward to get the drive shaft off. It was rather tight, but no more so than modern cars. It is all back together and working fine. After adjusting the linkages by the book the speed is slower than my cub Cadet, so I may see how I can tweak that later, especially considering it has the 2 speed axle. thanks again for your help.

#15 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2012 - 03:01 PM

Congats! Glad it's working for you.

In high range, the 1655 should do about 9 mph, 4.5 in low. About the only cheap way to tweak more speed is to turn the hydro faster. In standard trim, the engine should turn about 3600 rpm (normal), the hydro has a top limit of 4000 rpm input. You'll need a digital tach to set up either the engine (governor) or the hydro (pulley sizes). Pulleys with splined hubs and different diameters might be just a little difficult to find. I don't think anyone makes them.

Another option is a larger actual diameter tire for the rear axle. The limit there is 27".




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