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JD 212 PTO clutch problems


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7 replies to this topic

#1 Dieselcowboy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 09:30 PM

Every time I use the mower deck on this tractor and want to shut it off it won't disengage. Anyone have any clues what causes this condition? Also have a 208 that does the same thing. I have to take a peace of metal and tap the pulley to make it stop.

#2 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 09:41 PM

Try taking the outer clutch housing off, and cleaning it up. You might have dirt or hard grease keeping it from disengaging. Could even be the bearing in there, lost one of the rollers, and became jambed.

#3 MacWorld OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2012 - 09:26 AM

Got the same problem with my 214. So far I tried cleaning everything (including the "brake lining") with brake cleaner and a light sanding to the metal cone. I also fixed all the wear in the linkages and adjusted it so that I can pry on the PTO arm (the one holding the PTO pulley) but still I am unable to shutoff the PTO once I used it a bit.

My current assumption is that once it gets hot it's gripping. In the first ~10minutes of use I can switch it off but after a while it will grip until it cools down.

There is a infinite list of reasons for me to try to find a electric PTO and do the conversion.

#4 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2012 - 09:44 AM

MacWorld, it sounds to me like you need to replace your bearings. When they are wore out and get hot, they have a tendency to want to sieze up, and weld themselves fast, so to speak. After cooling, the metal tends to shrink, which will allow them to eventually let loose. I'd replace the bearings, and see how you make out, before converting to the electric clutch. Just my thought, you of course can do what you'd like.

#5 Tmo OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2012 - 09:50 AM

There are a few reasons why the mechanical clutch doesn't disengage. First, check the brake to be sure it's adjusted properly. Second, inspect the linkage to be sure it's moving the cup away from the cone. And as mentioned, remove the cup and clean and lightly lube the cup and cone. The mechanical clutches on these are far simpler and easier to mess with than the electrical clutches (and cheaper). I wouldn't change one out to an electrical one myself.

Here are a couple of pages from the service manual on the mechanical clutch.

Attached Files



#6 John Beer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2012 - 11:44 AM

MacWorld, it sounds to me like you need to replace your bearings. When they are wore out and get hot, they have a tendency to want to sieze up, and weld themselves fast, so to speak. After cooling, the metal tends to shrink, which will allow them to eventually let loose. I'd replace the bearings, and see how you make out, before converting to the electric clutch. Just my thought, you of course can do what you'd like.


I removed the mechanical PTO on my 214 and replaced all bearings, my problems were much the same as Diesel Cowboy's... proper clutch linkage and brake adjustment as well as new bearings for the PTO and so far... no trouble..

#7 Dieselcowboy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2012 - 08:57 PM

Thank you everyone for the replys. I have had this problem for years on the 212 and a 208 with no luck of fixing it. One of these things is bound to fix my problem.

#8 MacWorld OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2012 - 08:10 AM

Yesterday I decided to try to fix the problem on my 214 by adjusting before replacing parts. I am not a bearing expert but my bearings seems to be in quite a good shape they turn totally freely and they have no flat spot on the rollers nor any pitting. First adjustment I made the PTO would not even engage. Oh well too far, lets adjust halfway between "before" and "current". After this second adjustment it worked! I had to use the snow blower for about an hour and I was able to disengage/engage the PTO without any problems!

I cannot say how it must be adjusted but as I said I fixed all the wear in the PTO mechanism (weld and drill or grind) specially the mating point of parts #8 - #10 and #10 - #13 , I replaced the 2 pins in the forward PTO arm pivot (#20) with bigger spring pins (stronger and closer together) and I added a nut+washer on the #13 behind the main arm (#25). The nut+washer is adjusted in such way that I can push on the PTO arm to disengage the PTO.

I don't know why but on the #13 rod I have only one spring, the outer one. On all illustrations there seems to be a spring on both sides of the arm. The spring is on the outside of the arm pushing the PTO clutch toward the engine when I engage it.

Time will tell if my current setup is really OK of if I was lucky yesterday

MP316__________UN01JAN94.jpg




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