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#121 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2012 - 06:20 PM

Bore a hole in the side of the frame with a hole saw for the hose and fitting Kenny.
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#122 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 04:01 AM

What if you cut ii some of that angled backplate and mounted it as close to the rear axle as possible ? You have plenty of stroke you to use and this increases your leverage if done correctly.

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#123 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 05:23 AM

Keith, that's a thought. I do have another plate on the other tractor if needed. Getting it set right could be fun. I'll look into that today! I will have to get some of those split collars. I hope there is enough room next to the axle down there. But if i can keep the mount on that plate, it would all come out together. I did start fabbing the adjustable links yesterday. I am trying to get an idea of how to hook to the upper arms, probably something similar to the pieces you sent for the lower attachment. Just finding the right material to use. Need some 3/16" or possibly 1/8". I have 1/16" +/-, but jump to 1/4" from there.

#124 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 05:29 AM

Casey, I may have to drill some holes, but I would rather not if I can find a better way to run the hoses. Getting them all hooked to the valve will be a challenge.

#125 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 04:40 PM

Okay, folks! I moved the rockshaft up a bit to allow for mounting the cylinder under the tractor. I can't go any higher with it, no room for the center link. That's going to be a bit tough now. By all my guesstimates, the cylinder will be approximately 6" + off the ground at the base. Right now, the low point is the rear axle at 9". Not sure what to do here! I got betteer measurements of the cylinder: 1 1/2" Bore, 5/8" rod, and 4 1/2" stroke. I will have a hard time swinging the cylinder up under more as the rear end is there. Offsetting to the side causes interference with the lower lift arm pins.
Image002.jpg Image003.jpg

Image004.jpg

Here's a pic of the cylinder base. Note the location of the hose fitting:
Image005.jpg

#126 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 07:50 PM

That fitting can be turned and or replaced. At 4-1/2" stroke with a 1-1/2" bore will need a pretty long lever on the rocker shaft so you use all the stroke.
That cylinder looks like it might have come from a 195 , or a newer Gilson ford.


#127 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2012 - 07:58 PM

If you can get me a few dims of all the pivot points and there relative locations I can tell you what you need for a link ARM and draw up a sketch of it. It will need to be rugged too. A drawing of the points would be the easiest for me to decieffer.

#128 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2012 - 02:02 AM

Here you go:
Lift Points.jpeg

Lower arms: 20.5" C to C
Upper lift arms: 7" C to C
Cyl: 11.75" closed, 4.5" stroke. .75 hole base pivot, .4375" clevis hole

From what i have figured, the cylinder arm will be about 3.625" C to C to get 16" lift at the lower arms.

#129 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2012 - 03:40 AM

Can you mount the cylinder on the lower arm frame pivot plane? Mount it as close to the left side as you can, but still have the top pivot arm also close to the inside of the rocker arm.
As for the center link mount points, they work best below the rocker shaft pivot points. You get more lift at the back.
Should look kind of like this.

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Edited by skyrydr2, April 11, 2012 - 03:42 AM.


#130 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2012 - 07:13 AM

Keith, the current configuration is only 2" below the gas tank. I may have to make a new clevis end that is shorter, this one is quite long.

#131 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2012 - 03:19 AM

A bit of math later , and you need a lever 3.84" long c to c and you will need to crank up the relief in the valve, because of the 1.5" bore to 1100 psi. At 800 psi it might lift 350# at the tip.
This is with vertical link holes 10.5 " from frame side on the lower arms .
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#132 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2012 - 06:48 AM

Sounds good, Keith. That should help figure this out. I'll get to the relief valve a bit later on. I did nothing yesterday, bit of burnout. I can get back today with a fresher mind.

#133 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2012 - 04:53 PM

Got back at it today! Cut a hole thru the rear plate for the cylinder. Made an arm for it to mount to, 3.84" c to c if my cheap digital calipers are correct. Here's a few pics:
Image001.jpg Image002.jpg
Image003.jpg Image004.jpg
I looked at it some for a bit and decided if i changed the arm some, I could get the cylinder base a bit higher.
Image005.jpg
That gained another 3/4" at the base, which is only 1 1/4" below the axle now. I can live with that. I will need to open the hole more to allow for the cylinder to move as it opens/closes. I started building a hanger for it. I had one piece of 3/8"X2" left from the lower arms, bored a 3/4" hole thru it. Needed another piece of fairly heavy steel, but only had 1/4"X3". So I doubled that up and welded them together. Bored the hole thru. Now to figure how I want to mount them to the rear plate.
At least I made some progress.

#134 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2012 - 05:34 PM

I may have missed it, but how do you plan to make your 3rd arm attachment point? You could do like the Massey 1650- thru 1855 uses, and make a swivel strap to fasten your 3rd arm to your jackshaft.

MF 3pt.jpeg
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#135 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2012 - 06:31 PM

That's a good idea, Daniel! I have been thinking about that, amongst all the other stuff.




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