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GTV/16 3-Point


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#106 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 05:13 PM

I'm the same way, Greg. Not sure what they are in Hyd. lingo.

#107 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 05:41 PM

Aha! Found this:
JIC 6 M.jpeg

Must be that!

#108 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 07:03 PM

Kenny, for simplicity I suggest using all #6 female swivels on 1/4" hose as this is the standard fittings on that Ford valve. And the preasure port on the pump is #6 (or 3/8")npt . That adapter in the pic is what you need for the pump.
What you have for the mockup looks great! The linkage will needs to be right so you can get about 16" of travel at the tips of the lower arms . Or 4" off the ground to 20" above at full lift.
Also , you want the cylinder to push for lift, lots more power and less stress to the seals around the rod, thus less likely to leak .
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#109 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 07:12 PM

Looking great Kenny, keep it up.
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#110 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 07:19 PM

Kenny, for simplicity I suggest using all #6 female swivels on 1/4" hose as this is the standard fittings on that Ford valve. And the preasure port on the pump is #6 (or 3/8")npt . That adapter in the pic is what you need for the pump.
What you have for the mockup looks great! The linkage will needs to be right so you can get about 16" of travel at the tips of the lower arms . Or 4" off the ground to 20" above at full lift.
Also , you want the cylinder to push for lift, lots more power and less stress to the seals around the rod, thus less likely to leak .


Keith is right, simpler to use your existing #6 JIC hose fittings on the valve. But if you have to have hoses made up, on the hose ends that connect to the valve, use 90 degree swivels on the ends of the hoses to keep everything flatter to the frame, out of harm's way.

Like these hose swivel fittings: Posted Image
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#111 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 07:40 PM

Okay, thanks for the info guys. I'll have to take the fittings out of the cylinder and change them. They are the NPSM fittings, no swivel there. You guys came in with this at the right time, I was just fixing to ask about all this. Now to find a place to get the hoses made up.
Keith, I don't see anywhere I can mount the cylinder so it will push for lift. It won't fit outside the frame as the hose fittings are on opposite sides of the cylinder. Unless the new fittings allow me to rotate it just right so the tire won't rub the hoses. Maybe a straight fitting out of the cylinder with 90 degree swivel fittings on the hoses will let me do that. I'll only have about a 1/2" of clearance for the tire. The cylinder has a 3/4" hole for mounting at the base. If I can run the hoses in line with the cylinder, I just might be able to get it between the tire and frame.

#112 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 07:45 PM

Oh no Kenny, the fittings you have are fine. The swivels are on the hose fittings, as in the 90 degree fitting pic I posted.

#113 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 07:46 PM

But do take out one of the fittings to take to the hose shop to be sure they put the correct matching fittings on the hoses.

#114 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 07:50 PM

Mount it out back pushing up on one of the rockershaft arms. This will cut down on linkage mess and simplify it. That was how I had planned it for my GT 18 before the Ford came along.

#115 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 07:56 PM

Oh no Kenny, the fittings you have are fine. The swivels are on the hose fittings, as in the 90 degree fitting pic I posted.

Daniel, It's the cylinder fittings I'm looking at changing. They are the NPSM and are angled so that one or the other will be headed into the frame it I put it between the tire.

#116 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 08:02 PM

Mount it out back pushing up on one of the rockershaft arms. This will cut down on linkage mess and simplify it. That was how I had planned it for my GT 18 before the Ford came along.

The only problem with that is the base will be 3-4" below the trailer hitch. This is 11 3/4 CtoC on the mount holes, base hole is 3/4" dia., so about 12.5" overall. The rockshaft is only 9.25" above the center of the lower arms. I would have a mount 2+" below them. To have it push to lift, I have to go between the tire and frame.

#117 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2012 - 08:11 PM

Daniel, It's the cylinder fittings I'm looking at changing. They are the NPSM and are angled so that one or the other will be headed into the frame it I put it between the tire.


I understand now. Best to use solid 90 degree fittings on the cylinder then, with straight end swivels on that end of the hoses. This will keep the hoses closer to the cylinder body than straight cylinder fittings with 90 degree swivels on the hose ends.
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#118 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2012 - 06:18 AM

I'll get some pics today of alternative cylinder locations. Maybe I need a shorter cylinder?

#119 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2012 - 07:30 AM

Sure is looking good ,Kenny.Can't wait to see more.

#120 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2012 - 04:46 PM

Okay, here's a couple pics of alternative locations for the cylinder:
Image001.jpg

Image002.jpg

I can do the first if I can get the hoses against the frame. The second allows no ground clearance!




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