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GTV/16 3-Point

20K views 205 replies 15 participants last post by  KennyP 
#1 ·
I have been playing on Sketchup again. Wanted a 3-Point for the GTV/16, didn't want to cut the complete early 3-point I have. So I started 'sketching'. There are a few extra lines, mainly for reference. Here ya go:
Automotive design Gesture Slope Font House
 

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#2 ·
Great hitch setup Kenny, I assume you will be using a hydraulic cylinder in the middle to lift and lower?
Will the top link mount to that same rockshaft bracket as the cylinder?
I see the lower arms pin to the factory sleeve hitch mounting holes.
What are you planning for stabilizers, just chains or turnbuckles?
Also, are you trying to be more like Keith? LOL
 
#4 ·
Keith, yours was the inspiration. Gave it a lot of thought. Wanted to do this on the Ford, may yet.
Casey, I hope to have hyd. on this tractor in the summer. Not sure how the cylinder will be yet.
Top link is still in planning, probably get one from TSC. And I'll use chains for stabilizers, not much room for turnbuckles.
Thought I'd throw it out here and see if more ideas come about. The rockshaft is in the same location as the one for the sleeve hitch. May be able to use the manual lift for a while, has a spring assist.
I can rotate the view if need be. Right now I am deciding on the top of the levelers. Should have at least 14" of lift, probably more.
I may give the tires a bit more clearance to the bends. That will lengthen the lower links a bit, no problem right now.
It will be a full Cat 0, not a Sears Cat 0.
 
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#6 ·
I guess it depends on your geographical location, up here niether is as popular as a sleeve hitch.
Kenny, if at all possible , pull from the axles like the Ford, and try to keep the arms as straight as possible ,this way you can grab anything with them. An arm 18-20" long, 14" at the tractor and 18-19" at the other end when relaxed is about perfect. Make the rocker shaft and arms as wide as need be , offsets are a pain , especially when plowing, and they limit side to side travel.
I have both setups running ,and tested, the straight arms are the easiest to use hands down!
 
#7 ·
Keith, the hard part is his tires are in the way for straight arms, especially where he is pulling from, which is a factory designed pull point. The transaxles are aluminum so you can't really attach to them. Kenny, what tire size are you running on that, and the wheel backspace, if you could find another wheel/tire combo that offsets out just a little more than you would be able to run straight arms. One more thing to think about, could you build a framework that looks like my MTD sleeve hitch and use something like that as a starting point? it gets the arms mounted back away from the tractor tires a little so straight arms might be easier, just a thought.
 
#8 ·
The rig I had used cast steel axle tubes, , anyway you can get straight arms on it, only need a max of 20" wide at the implement end. And for Sears stuff I think its 14" or there abouts. Some where I have all the geometry for linkages, I need to dig this stuff up so I can make up a few more parts , as someone wants a set for their Ford.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Casey, this has 26X12's on it. Wheels have a pretty good offset to the outside. The slanted piece is 12.5" wide. I do have a complete Sears 3-Point, model 917.253110. Afraid I would bend it, plus would have to modify to fit. Handle won't work with my fender pan. Might even sell it or trade for some hydraulic parts. Since I had to modify, why not use heavier material and start from scratch. I can always build 2 sets of lower links, leave one set straight for Sears stuff.
Haven't found any Sears three point stuff around here. Figured I'd build my own attachments.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Tread

First pic is the 26X12's, second was the 23X10.50's. The lower links will use the stock sleeve hitch mounts. Wider wheels would be a help.

P.S. These lower arms will work on the Ford also!
 

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#10 ·
So you must be using Cub Cadet 12x8.5 rims with your tires. I would think you could make a hitch like the MTD that sets off the back and ties to the sides of the frame and drawbar was what I meant, not to modify the Sears 3 point. Why have 2 sets of arms, smart man like yourself would use pin balls on each end of the lower links and make the lift linkages pin onto the rockshaft cam arms and then have the lift links on the outside of the rockshaft cam arms for regular Cat 0 or unpin the lift links and repin them on the insides of the rockshaft cam arms for the Sears stuff, if that makes sense.
 
#12 ·
Those are the stock GTV wheels. 8.5" wheels would be nice, don't think I can afford the shipping from WV.
I hear what you are saying, Casey. Just be simpler (to me) to have 2 sets of arms.
 
#15 ·
Don't remember right off, but not much more than 17-18". That sleeve hitch is about 13" inside. Don't plan to plow with it, more blade work than anything.
 
#16 ·
Hey Kenny, quick idea I had in my head for going from sleeve to 3 point that might help you. Mount a top link to the rear deck and then build a box tubing, parascope type of deal that pins onto the sleeve hitch, and then you tighten the jam bolts on the sleeve hitch. The parascoping tube system can be built to have the width adjusted, or implement offset. And the ends are just capped with tabs to accommodate the implement mounting pins. Fairly simple, and might be a good way to do it for you.
 
#17 ·
Except with a sleeve hitch, you cannot adjust tilt front to rear, nor side to side. I have worked too many MF 235's with a box blade, I loved being able to tilt to get a better (or less) cut. Too many years operating larger equipment, I guess.
 
#18 ·
Ah, now I understand the turnbuckles on the lift linkages! I have yet to own a tractor with 3 point, and I certainly haven't operated one with a 3 point. closest we have to 3 point is the 2 point on the Farmall 200 with 3 point adapting points and a chain... and I have never operated the Farmall 200 because it isn't running, and besides, dad sold the 3 point mower he has for it.

If I get a Ford LGT 145 or 165 I think I will pick on Keith a little to built me a nice, cheap 3 point for it. Even if it costs as much as the tractor it might be worth my while having. Oh, reason I wouldn't build a three point myself is I don't think I know enough about them to understand all the nit picky things.
 
#19 ·
Keith did a great job on his. I'm sure he could fix you up.
 
#21 ·
Well, I went out and measured between the tires. Got a whole 16.5". Take 12.5" off for the slanted piece and I have 2" each side to play in. Kinda tight. Rethinking the leveling links, seeing if I can get them in line with the lower links. Shaft I have is 13.5". Be pretty close, but workable. Now to figure how I want to make them. Cheap comes to mind real quick. 5/8" all thread at least, don't need them to bend. Hmmmmmm!
 
#22 ·
Played a bit more this afternoon. Came up with this, the one on the left. Didn't do both sides yet.
Chair Slope Table Auto part Drawing

This gets it inline, could be a bit trickey to weld up and keep the pins aligned.
 

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#24 ·
What I failed to do was show a pin or something to keep it from dropping. I will keep both sides adjustable to start with, maybe pin this once I have it working right. I need to find some Cat 0 swivels for the ends of the lower links.
 
#25 ·
One thing that might help would be to spread those rear wheels out a bit with an adapter. A PO did that with a 1256 that I have. That would give you a bit more stability, and more 'room' to play with for the 3-pt.

Standard 1256 on the left...'spread' on the right.

Tire Plant Vehicle Automotive tire Tread
 

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#26 ·
Bending steel bar stock is easy with a hydraulic press, like the $69 special from harbor freight . I use one even smaller , for most of mine, and for heavier stuff I use my wood splitter :thumbs:
 
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