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GTV/16 3-Point


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#16 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 07:13 AM

Hey Kenny, quick idea I had in my head for going from sleeve to 3 point that might help you. Mount a top link to the rear deck and then build a box tubing, parascope type of deal that pins onto the sleeve hitch, and then you tighten the jam bolts on the sleeve hitch. The parascoping tube system can be built to have the width adjusted, or implement offset. And the ends are just capped with tabs to accommodate the implement mounting pins. Fairly simple, and might be a good way to do it for you.

#17 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 07:20 AM

Except with a sleeve hitch, you cannot adjust tilt front to rear, nor side to side. I have worked too many MF 235's with a box blade, I loved being able to tilt to get a better (or less) cut. Too many years operating larger equipment, I guess.

#18 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 07:45 AM

Ah, now I understand the turnbuckles on the lift linkages! I have yet to own a tractor with 3 point, and I certainly haven't operated one with a 3 point. closest we have to 3 point is the 2 point on the Farmall 200 with 3 point adapting points and a chain... and I have never operated the Farmall 200 because it isn't running, and besides, dad sold the 3 point mower he has for it.

If I get a Ford LGT 145 or 165 I think I will pick on Keith a little to built me a nice, cheap 3 point for it. Even if it costs as much as the tractor it might be worth my while having. Oh, reason I wouldn't build a three point myself is I don't think I know enough about them to understand all the nit picky things.

#19 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 08:10 AM

Keith did a great job on his. I'm sure he could fix you up.

#20 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 09:31 AM

Keith did a great job on his. I'm sure he could fix you up.

Yup, my thoughts exactly, but first thing is first... the tractor lol.

#21 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 03:42 PM

Well, I went out and measured between the tires. Got a whole 16.5". Take 12.5" off for the slanted piece and I have 2" each side to play in. Kinda tight. Rethinking the leveling links, seeing if I can get them in line with the lower links. Shaft I have is 13.5". Be pretty close, but workable. Now to figure how I want to make them. Cheap comes to mind real quick. 5/8" all thread at least, don't need them to bend. Hmmmmmm!

#22 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 06:54 PM

Played a bit more this afternoon. Came up with this, the one on the left. Didn't do both sides yet.
3PointLift2.jpg
This gets it inline, could be a bit trickey to weld up and keep the pins aligned.

#23 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 11:18 PM

That should work well Kenny, is the bottom C going to be lose on the all thread so the all thread can turn, or are you going to weld it solid and just remove to adjust?

#24 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2012 - 03:13 AM

What I failed to do was show a pin or something to keep it from dropping. I will keep both sides adjustable to start with, maybe pin this once I have it working right. I need to find some Cat 0 swivels for the ends of the lower links.

#25 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 05:44 AM

One thing that might help would be to spread those rear wheels out a bit with an adapter. A PO did that with a 1256 that I have. That would give you a bit more stability, and more 'room' to play with for the 3-pt.

Standard 1256 on the left...'spread' on the right.

100_4016.jpg

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#26 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 05:47 AM

Bending steel bar stock is easy with a hydraulic press, like the $69 special from harbor freight . I use one even smaller , for most of mine, and for heavier stuff I use my wood splitter :thumbs:
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#27 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 06:05 AM

Thanks for the ideas guys. I think 8.5 wheels would be a big help. Casey says he has some, but shipping might kill that. Spacers that are thick enough would be outrageous.
Keith, I've been thinking about a press. Used to have a 20 ton, but a 12 Ton would probably work. Just where to put it and how often I would use it once this is done. Hmmmm!

#28 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 07:17 AM

Just remember, the wheels I have are spoked wheel centers. However, you can cut the center out and weld a GT wheel center in them from rotten wheels If wanted. Or you can just use them as is, center hole is 4 inch, needs to increase by 1/4 inch, or use wheel spacers, which I could sell with. I ended up just buying the Cub rims because I got a great deal on 63 pound wheel weights and decided I wanted to use those as well as filling the tires. I will try to get the new rear tires mounted up next month just have to clean up and paint the rims. then you can see what Cub Cadet 8.5 wide rims do for it. John Deere 8.5 wide rims will also fit with the backspacing, but with the MTD hitch at roughly 15.5 inches wide with hardware it was close, and I decided that wasn't going to cut it, and that was with 10.5 tires. The cub rims and those trailer style rims will set the tires out at least 2 more inches each with 10.5 tires, I think, I can measure the offset on the 8.5 wide wheels today if you want, just let me know.

#29 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 07:26 AM

I use mine all the time, bearing, blades, hole punch, broaching keyways, all kinds of stuff. :thumbs:
What is the offset on those wheels? Can they be turned around to get more offset ?

#30 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2012 - 07:31 AM

Do that, Casey. And send me a pic if you would. If nothing else, I might find another set of wheels and make my own. If I could 'roll' a piece of metal to fit, I'd do that.

You snuck in there, Keith. Offset won't allow turning around. Depending on weather, I may get some more pics today.




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