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GTV/16 3-Point


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#151 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 03:01 PM

Looks great Kenny. Thats a lot of lift - over 16"! which means you should be able to handle just about any attachment out there.

#152 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 03:10 PM

Brian, don't know how that happened, but I'm okay with it. Just glad that is is moving freely!

#153 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 06:14 PM

This morning, the 3-point looked like this:
Image001.jpg
I tore it all apart and this evening it looked like this:
Image002.jpg Image003.jpg
Image004.jpg
Thanks to some good sunshine, the paint dried enough for me to get it all back together. I rechecked the limits. Goes from 3.5" to 20.75" +/-. Not bad for my first ever scratch 3-point build.

#154 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 06:16 PM

Great looking paint Kenny. Glad your build is going well.
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#155 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 06:23 PM

Casey, this is one of those slow and easy jobs. It has taken a while to get to this point, but I am happy with it thus far. I am not going to weld anything solid until I have the pump working, just in case I need to tweak something. Thank God for the split collars, makes tweaking easy. I think it will do all I want it to.

#156 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 06:25 PM

Looking really good, I think you got right not that I know anything :bigrofl:

Good Stuff.
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#157 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 07:21 PM

Doug, I'm not even sure if I got it right! :bigrofl: :bigrofl:

#158 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2012 - 05:11 AM

Looks great Kenny, your almost there. You can do the same thing with split collars for the center link as well.
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#159 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2012 - 05:44 AM

Center link may come a bit later, I'll have to get the box blade set up so I can get it figured out. This morning, I plan to put the seat pan and tires back on. Got to figure out something to keep the lower arms off the tires, but that will be easier with the tires on. Then it's on to the pump and reservoir.

#160 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2012 - 06:10 AM

A bit of math later , and you need a lever 3.84" long c to c and you will need to crank up the relief in the valve, because of the 1.5" bore to 1100 psi. At 800 psi it might lift 350# at the tip.
This is with vertical link holes 10.5 " from frame side on the lower arms .

Keith, I had already had one hole drilled at 11" on the lower arms, hopefully that didn't mess things up too much. I also thought I have an exploded view of this valve, but can't find it right now. Not sure who made it. I am assuming the thumb screw at the end adjusts the pressure. I'll have to make up a gauge to check pressure once I get fluid going. I will get a close up of the valve today before I install the fender pan.

#161 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2012 - 06:17 AM

Hey Kenny, I have an idea for keeping the lower arms off the tires (at least without implements). If you use heavy duty springs pulling inward at a slight angle that would do it, without compromising the lift, lowering, or ability to mount implements. Not sure how well it would work with the implement on it though, but might be worth a try.
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#162 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2012 - 06:30 AM

Thanks, Casey. With the trailer hitch sticking out there, it's kind of hard to figure something. But I'll look into that!
Keith, I found the valve. It was used on the 09JC9857 Front Hydraulic Kit. Part # JAC129676. Just have to find what brand of valve this is. Both valves I have are this one. Kits are still available, around $28 from Messick's.

#163 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2012 - 05:54 PM

Got the seat pan back on! found out I need to shave the cylinder arm a bit to clear he gas tank, no biggy. Made an extension for the valve handle, feels good sitting in the seat with the handle right there. Took the hood and grille back off so I could work on the pump mount. Just trying to figure out an easy way to tension the belt now.
I checked rear tire clearance, arms don't even come close to the tires. Max spread is 24", so any normal CatO should fit up real good.
I took some close ups of the valves. Wrote down the numbers, but left that at the shop. Sure would like to know what brand of valves these are.
Here's the pics:
Image001.jpg Image002.jpg
Image003.jpg Image004.jpg
Image005.jpg Image006.jpg
Image007.jpg
As you can see from the last pic, I am already finding a home for the reservior.

#164 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2012 - 06:47 PM

Kenny, to hold the arms in you could use those black rubber hold down straps. The HD ones have a pull of 50lbs. Are you installing cross chains to keep the sway in the implement limited. If so you could adjust them to keep the arms from expanding outward too far. Another way to keep them together is to get a cat 0 draw bar or just make a 20" spacer out of 3/4 rod or whatever and install that when you don't have an implement on the hitch. On my x475 I used to have a draw bar on it when it wasn't in use. On the 2320 it's not an issue because there is plenty of clearance, but I also have an imatch hitch on it that maintains the spacing.
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#165 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2012 - 07:03 PM

Brian, some how I got lucky and they don't get close to the tires. Plus the trailer hitch keeps them from coming in. I may do something once I have it all running again, but will wait until then to figure that out. I will build up a sleeve hitch adapter later on. I also want a ball hitch on that. I'm just happy I don't have to do something before I can even drive it. My first implement will be adapting the box blade to 3-point. Overall width of those wide tires is only 42", so if I widen the BB to 48", it will work just fine.




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