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Need help regarding a Gilson 53040


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#16 Thops OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 12:52 AM

$20.00 on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/...=item3a6fd9fca4



That looks like an Older Briggs Oppossed Twin with Points and condensor.The Cast fin Flywheel was used on those.

Are you sure it's not Model number 401701?

if it has points Just cut the wire going to the points and stick a replacement Electronic ignition coil in it's place.The "Kill Wire" that goes to the switch is not Powered so your good to go.

Just hook the Coil kill wire to a toggle switch and hook the other wire coming from the toggle switch to a Ground.


Hi Eric
Summer is over here and i have taken another shot at this project, and confirmed my screwup :-)
The coil i bought beliving it was a system without breakers was the wrong model as i found breakers hidden deep inside behind the carburator.
Now it seems that i have to either find, and buy, the right coil and probably breakers, or convert the system.
I supose that your sugestion was a description af the second alternative.

I think (!) i understand how to follow your instruction, but i have a few aditional questions, if you don't mind.

Is the electronic ignition placed where the breakers are now?
If not, where should the be placed and controlled?
Do you have some partnumber or link? Hopefully i can find it in Sweden.

When i read the number on the engine i think it was 401707, but i will check again, i could have read it wrong,
it is a Opposed twin and has points and condensor as you say!

Thanks a lot for all help.
Thomas

#17 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 02:57 AM

Is the electronic ignition placed where the breakers are now?
If not, where should the be placed and controlled?
Do you have some part number or link? Hopefully i can find it in Sweden.



It's an Electronic Ignition Coil.Just cut and discard the wires coming and going to the points.
With a Solid State ignition module/coil/magneto ignition you no longer need points and condenser at all.

If the coil that you bought is not for points ignition don't hook it to the points.

Part number is Briggs and Stratton 394891

It's the exact one I linked to on Ebay.I looked up the numbers before I found a part that will work.
That guy ships to Sweden to.
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#18 Thops OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 04:37 AM

It's an Electronic Ignition Coil.Just cut and discard the wires coming and going to the points.
With a Solid State ignition module/coil/magneto ignition you no longer need points and condenser at all.

If the coil that you bought is not for points ignition don't hook it to the points.

Part number is Briggs and Stratton 394891

It's the exact one I linked to on Ebay.I looked up the numbers before I found a part that will work.
That guy ships to Sweden to.


Hi
The coil you link to looks exactly like the one i bought, so far so good.
Excuse me if i ask stupid questions, but i am a little confused about this. :blush2:

So, if i should bypass the pointer system. to what should i connect the pin on the coil?
Current allways, current with switch or what?
I asumed there should be some other device that "replaced" the pointers to tell when to "make a spark",
how is that regulated now?

I connected it to the pointers and tried to start, that was before i knew that i had pointers,
can this destory something ?

Thanks and regards
Thops

#19 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 06:42 AM

The connecter on the Coil is for a Kill wire.Do not put power to this wire.To shut the engine off you Ground the wire.

The Solid state coils have a small pickup coil built in them.Here is a pic of one I circled the pickup.

It will spark without Any wires hooked up to it.

It should only have 1 Wire connection on the coil and that is for the Kill wire to shut the engine off.If it has 2 wires then it is a Coil for Points ignition.

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  • ignition-co.jpg

Edited by EricFromPa, August 30, 2012 - 06:47 AM.

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#20 Thops OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 07:19 AM

The connecter on the Coil is for a Kill wire.Do not put power to this wire.To shut the engine off you Ground the wire.

The Solid state coils have a small pickup coil built in them.Here is a pic of one I circled the pickup.

It will spark without Any wires hooked up to it.

It should only have 1 Wire connection on the coil and that is for the Kill wire to shut the engine off.If it has 2 wires then it is a Coil for Points ignition.


Thanks for the explanatinon.
I will go straight out to my workshop and see if i can get a spark or two :laughingteeth:
/Thops

#21 Thops OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 08:31 AM

Posted Image

Sadly it didn't work, no spark on any of the sparkplugs. :mecry:

A clue, anybody ?

#22 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 10:46 AM

the black wire with the female end should be attached to the male end on the coil

#23 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2012 - 03:58 AM

Posted Image

Sadly it didn't work, no spark on any of the sparkplugs. :mecry:

A clue, anybody ?


Flip the coil over it's on Upside down the wire connecter is always on the bottom.If it still doesn't produce spark then you cooked it or it is Defective and will need replaced.

It will fire without any wires hooked to it backwoods.It's a solid state Electronic Ignition coil.That connecter is for the Kill wire that goes to the ignition switch.

Edited by EricFromPa, August 31, 2012 - 04:00 AM.

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#24 Thops OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2012 - 05:38 AM

Flip the coil over it's on Upside down the wire connecter is always on the bottom.If it still doesn't produce spark then you cooked it or it is Defective and will need replaced.

It will fire without any wires hooked to it backwoods.It's a solid state Electronic Ignition coil.That connecter is for the Kill wire that goes to the ignition switch.


I went out and turned the coil, held the spark plug to the cylinder and pushed the startbutton........and there where sparks !!! :yelclap:

EricFromPa, if you where here i would open my best scotch ! :urock:

I can't thank you enough, and that also goes to all you others that have helped me to this point where i feel there is hope :laughingteeth:
( doesn't mean that i wont be back with more stupid questions)

Now i will run back out to the workshop, turn up the country music and get the pices together.... stay tuned my friends!
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#25 Thops OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 08:20 AM

FYI
Just now i got so much together that i could try to fire it up, and it started at once and sounded just great! :laughingteeth:
Now it's time for the next problem, all those springs and stuff connected to the carburator and things around that.
It seems that someone at some point rebuilt the throttle cable and there is also a lot of other gadgets that i can't figure out.
Anyway, that's small things comparing to what has been :laughingteeth:
Now i alternate between the engine and repainting everything.

#26 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2012 - 04:12 AM

I'm glad you got her to spark to life once again.

The carb/governor linkage isn't hard to figure out.Couple of pics here and there and you'll be golden.

#27 Thops OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2012 - 01:17 PM

I'm glad you got her to spark to life once again.

The carb/governor linkage isn't hard to figure out.Couple of pics here and there and you'll be golden.


After a couple of hours of scratching my head, poking on things, :beer: and using words that i didn't even know existed, i finaly got it together. I don't know if everything is as it should, but the engine starts and responds on the gas pedal.
I think there is something that isn't as it should, as i can hear the max Rpm seems very low, some automatic funktion is taking it down.
I will need the maximum power to move the heavy snow in the winter.

It will be interesting to see how she reacts when i get things painted and in place so i can do a test drive.

#28 Thops OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2012 - 06:22 AM

Hi.

As i got a lot of help from u guys here, it's only fair that i share the result with u.

Thanks again !

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#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2012 - 07:33 AM

That looks great! Have you got the RPM thing figured out?

#30 Thops OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2012 - 07:54 AM

That looks great! Have you got the RPM thing figured out?


Thanks
I wouldn't say that i've figured it out, but it seems to work ok. :)
I put things together as good as i could by reading a general B&S repair handbook and adjusted the carburator by ear so now it runs nice.
A little bit slow, but i think that's the way it should be.
I have put some load on a wagon and it could take it nice.
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