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Vintage Push Mower...Need Identification


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#1 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2012 - 09:21 PM

Seen this sitting in the junkyard and had to salvage it, it looked to cool to pass up. $25. dollars later...its in my garage. I really tried to get it to have spark but it wouldnt, I now have some ways to check using some briggs 5s engines that I know work, and when I made the video I already had the engine totally torn apart for scrap. Good news is though that I keep all my scrap in plastic containers outside so I plan on trying to put the engine back together and try to get it to have spark, the crank and piston are all in great shape so if I can get it to have spark then I should be in good shape...fingers crossed...until then I have been talking to brian(Bolens1000) and he might know the identification of this mower so he asked for some close up pics so I have them plus a video I took a few days earlier...If anyone has any idea of what kind of mower this is please let me know, there is no id tag on it anywhere....Enjoy the pics and video!!

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#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2012 - 09:49 PM

I think that is very similar to a firestone mower we had at one time. It was a dark red i think. It had a Clinton engine on it, remember that much.

#3 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2012 - 08:48 AM

Well, I guess I was wrong

I thought it might Be a Bolens, but after looking at the pics the raised "lines" go right down the entire mower, The Bolens lines are just near the front and the back.

I looked in my Big Bolens manual and found some models similar to the one you have but none exactly like your pictures.

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#4 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2012 - 09:29 AM

The crankshaft could be shortened, drilled and tapped to get to the correct length, however I would not give up on the engine that was on the mower. No spark is usually the easiest to fix of the three required elements necessary to make the engine run. New and used coils and points/condensers are still available for most B&S engines at reasonable prices as are flywheels if the magnets are bad.

Once you replace the engine you no longer have a vintage piece.

#5 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2012 - 10:05 AM

The crankshaft could be shortened, drilled and tapped to get to the correct length, however I would not give up on the engine that was on the mower. No spark is usually the easiest to fix of the three required elements necessary to make the engine run. New and used coils and points/condensers are still available for most B&S engines at reasonable prices as are flywheels if the magnets are bad.

Once you replace the engine you no longer have a vintage piece.



:ditto:

I would keep the engine

#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2012 - 11:16 AM

I'll third the keep the engine, or watch for a running older one & move the tin over.

What's the buried Allis in the back, didnt see one in your registry?

#7 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2012 - 01:41 PM

im not sure if it makes a difference or not but it defintely did on my 5s briggs when i tried it....I will have to make a vid for yas on what im talking about but the long story short is that I tried the old light alum. flywheel on the 5s to see if I could get spark and it was so tiny of one that it didnt even spark on the plug but i could feel it on the wire end if I touched it, but when I put on another 5s flywheel which is much heavier but is still alum. I really get spark out of that one so does that mean the flywheel magnet is weak??? Is that even possible??? I am going to try and use some of the extra coils that where questionable on my 5s to see if they work if they do I know that they are good, and there at least 3 i need to try...plus I want to check the condensors out as well....Thanks for the help so far and MH81, that allis is a B110 from 1968, I have the mower deck, and plow setup for it as well it was owned by my uncle before me, my next video on youtube i need to upload are a cold start of both the b110 and my bolens g11, I think i have a video of it already on my channel if you wish to see it.

#8 wilberj OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2012 - 02:54 PM

Looks to be a bolens to me from around the early 60's when every thing was gold?

Or it could be a bolens made mower that they made for wards.

#9 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2012 - 06:37 PM

did some tests today using the old briggs 5s to test a coil that i tried testing on the push and did not work. Because the crank is the same on the 5s the push mower flywheel fits on the crank and i tried getting spark...no luck...then I used the actual 5s flywheel which is much heavier and bang very bright blue spark....so I tried another coil....same thing...the flywheel used on the push mower does not create the energy needed the way it seems, and yet again i used the 5s flywheel...and theres great spark. I tried touching the magnet on the push mower flywheel with a screwdriver and there is magnetism but when I go to the 5s flywheel with the screwdriver there is a very noticeable amount more of magnetism...after doing all this....as everyone suggested I put the engine back together internally and am waiting till tomorrow till the rtv dries and I can fully tighten the oil sump. I included some pics of my progress today as well as the different flywheels( the one I am holding is the push mower flywheel ). Also Included in the pics are 2 briggs 5s engines ( red one is a 1949 and the blackish is a 1953 )

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#10 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2012 - 06:46 PM

Looks to be a bolens to me from around the early 60's when every thing was gold?

Or it could be a bolens made mower that they made for wards.


When I first saw the video on youtube, I thought it was a Bolens right away....
But after not being able to find an exact match in my manuals I have been on the fence about this one.

#11 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 12:15 PM

I have an update....3 words.....I GOT SPARK!!!! I will make a vid an upload it a little later on

#12 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 05:48 PM

Brad: I watched your vid and noticed several things.

1) If the original parts are as good as you say, the original engine can be saved. ....If the cylinder bore is scored, then you need to find another block. ......Otherwise, worn valve guides can be bushed, the top bearing can be refurbished, and valve seats refaced if necessary.

2) Another possibility is to find another 81900 model B&S engine. .....The "6" in your model number denoted the rachet starter, so any 81900 engine will work, but you may have to re-use your crankshaft & sump, and/or some of your original parts. ....These engines were used on many brands of equipment and were very plentiful.

3) Vertical crankshaft engines by B&S and Tecumseh (2 to 5 hp) usually used lightweight flywheels when they were used on mowers with the blade fastened to the crankshaft. ......The inertia of the blade added to the "flywheel effect." ......When trying to start one of these mowers with a blade loose or removed, the engine would be very difficult to start, if it would start at all.

Horizontal crankshaft engines had heavier flywheels because they did not have the inertia of a blade mounted directly to the crankshaft. .....Most mowers that had belt-driven blades, also used heavy flywheels.

4) The broken blade adapter was a very common occurence when the blade hit an object, or if the blade loosened while running. ......Most times the break occurred at the keyway of th blade adapter. .....These blade adapters, or hubs, were usually made of diecast white metals, and were designed to fail before damage was done to the crankshaft. ......The hubs were considered a common replacement part.

5) The early B&S engines used soft, aluminum flywheel keys. ......It was very, very common to partially or completely shear when the blade struck an object. .....With an even slightly-sheared flywheel key, these engines would not start (no spark! ).

6) I seem to recall an ESKA brand mower that looked similar to your deck style, but I'm not saying that's what you have. .....There was another brand whose base was dark bronze with an off-white engine.

7) I think your best option is to look at repairing your existing engine. .....Any replacement engine will probably also need work.
.....These are very easy engines to repair.
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#13 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2012 - 09:03 PM






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